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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

Gaylander How To Clean Up your Fuel Pump


So I did the simplest thing I could think of. I yanked out the Fuel Pump and cleaned it up.
Here's how:

I flipped up the seats and pulled back the floor cover by unscrewing the little plastic clips a quarter turn, until they released. The fuel pump is directly under the metal cover on the passenger side. The screws are a #3 Phillips.

Putting the screws and cover aside, I popped the hood and removed the fuel pump relay ( its pretty clearly marked ) under the fuse cover on the ( US models ) drivers side. I fired it up until it stalled, telling me that the fuel system was depressurized completely. I then removed th battery "hot" cable from the post, wrapping it in a shop cloth as I did so. DO NOT PROCEED UNTIL YOU HAVE DONE THIS.

I then used a screwdriver to pop the clips on the electric motor feed, on the top of the fuel pump, followed by the fuel line itself. If you have one, use a yellow chalk stick or white-out to mark the original position of the collar. Now it was time to remove the locking collar that holds the pump in place. I hear that Land Rover has a tool for this, but I figured that a #4 flat blade screwdriver and a ball peen hammer would do the trick. I was right. The pump is spring loaded, and this provides some resistance against the collar when removing it.

Put the collar to the side, and the pump pulls out of the tank. You will have to rock it to get the float to clear without bending it. This is a good time to dip a small jar into your tank and check your fuel quality, and any sediment build up in the tank.

I pulled the pump body out and placed it in a glass bowl I had brought along to catch any fuel that might leak out. I had also put down a blue tarp on my driveway, and had plenty of rags handy as well. An old toothbrush is nice to have around to clean away any old grime that your rags wont get. I also placed a clean rag over the hole left by the pump, to keep...
  • 80 inch models:
    • The chassis number can be found on the nearside engine mounting and on the brass plate on the nearside of the bulkhead. Later vehicles had the plate positioned inside the cab.
    86 & 107 models:
    • The chassis number can be found on the bulkhead inside the vehicle and on the right hand front spring hanger. Note: We've gotten a report of an 86" with the chassis number on the left hand *rear* spring hanger and nothing on the RH Front. So check both places.
    88 & 109 models:
    • The chassis number can be found on the bulkhead inside the vehicle and on the right hand front spring hanger.
    Series III 109" V8 (Stage I)
    • The chassis number can be found on the firewall in the engine bay and on the right hand front spring hanger.
    90, 110, 130 & Defenders:
    • Found in the front corner of the windshield
      Stamped on plate Riveted to the top of the brake pedal box in the engine compartment
      Stamped on the right-hand side of the chassis forward the spring mounting turret
    Range Rovers:
    • Found in the front corner of the windshield
      Stamped on the right hand side chassis member forward of the front spring mounting turret - Late Classics, some had their VIN stamped on the off side rear chassis outrigger.
    • Found in the front corner of the windshield
      Stamped on the right hand side chassis member forward of the front spring mounting turret
Synopsis of Chassis/Serial Numbering Scheme

  • Digits
    • 1 Geographic Region: S = Europe
      2 Country: A = United Kingdom
      3 Manufacturer: L = British Leyland/Land Rover
      4,5 (model)
      • LB = Series III, Stage I, Lightweight
        LD = 90 & 110, later Defender
        LH = Range Rover (mk I) (Classic)
        LJ = Discovery
        LN = Freelander
        LP = Range Rover (mk II)
        LT = Discovery, Series II
      6 (wheelbase)
      • A = 88" & Freelander, & 100" for RR mk I
        C = 109" and 1 ton
        G = 100"
        H = 110" & 147"
        K = 127"
        M = Special
        R = 110"...
RigPix Database - CB, "Freeband" and more

This sites lists hundreds of CB Radios with specifications and a picture of each rig. So if your thinking of buying one or you've seen one on Ebay and want more info. Click the link :)
Main/Tracer - Use

BROWN Main battery feed
Brown/Blue Control box to ignition and lighting switch (feed)
Brown/Red Compression ignition starting aid to switch. Main battery feed to double pole ignition switch.
Brown/Purple Alternator regulator feed
Brown/Green Dynamo ‘F’ to control box ‘F’
Brown/White Ammeter to control box
Brown/Yellow Alternator to ‘no charge’ warning light
Brown/Black Alternator battery sensing lead
Brown/Slate Starter relay contact to starter solenoid
Brown/Orange Fuel shut-off (diesel stop)
GREEN Accessories fused via ignition switch
Green/Brown Switch to reverse lamp
Green/Blue Water termperature gauge to temperature unit
Green/Red Direction indicator switch to left-hand flasher lamps
Green/Purple Stop lamp switch to stop lamps; or stop lamp switch to lamp failure unit
Green/Light Green Hazard flasher unit to hazard pilot lamp; or lamp failure unit to stop lamp bulbs
Green/White Direction indicator switch to right-hand flasher lamps
Green/Yellow Heater motor to switch single speed (or to ‘slow’ on two or three-speed motor)
Green/Black Fuel gauge to fuel tank unit or changeover switch or voltage stabilizer to tank units
Green/Pink Fuse to flasher unit
Green/Slate a) Heater motor to switch (‘fast’ on two or three-speed motor)
Green/Orange Low fuel level switch to warning light
ORANGE Wiper circuits fused via ignition switch
Orange/Blue Switch to front screen wiper motor first speed, timer or intermittent unit
Orange/Green Switch to front screen wiper motor second speed
Orange/Black Switch to front screen wiper motor parking circuit, timer or intermittent unit
Orange/Purple Timer to intermittent unit to motor parking circuit
Orange/White Timer to intermittent unit to motor parking circuit
Orange/Yellow Switch to headlamp or rear window wiper motor feed, timer or...
recently found ont interweb - might be of interest to someone.

Engine protection system
Overheating alarm system Having once cooked the engine I decided to increase my chances of avoiding a major problem next time round. Therefore I have installed a simple system which warns me visually and audibly when the engine gets hot beyond the acceptable limit.

The system is housed in a small plastic box bolted to the inside of the hinged cover below the steering wheel. The buzzer is fitted on top of the circuit enclosure and the LED on the instrument panel housing.

Circuit description:
The coolant temperature sender in the thermostat housing changes its resistance depending on the temperature. Maximum resistance is reached at the lowest coolant temperature. Voltage registered by the temperature gauge on the instrument panel causes the pointer to move up and down the scale as illustrated on the diagram. For the typical engine temperature voltage at the sender terminal should be between 5.5V and 4.5V. These values are approximate and may vary depending on the type of the sender installed in the vehicle.

An op-amp acts as a...
BBA reman online catalogue

It's got a lot of useful info including solutions to common ECU probs there's a few Gaylander fixes on there. and all the fault codes fer ABS and the like.
Just trawling the 'net this morning and I came across this very informative piece on the K series engine and its various failings. It's from an MGF site but the engine (and its problems) are the same.

MGF (K Series) Head Gasket Developments - The MG Owners' Club
Heres the DIY tools that help make life easy doing the hg repair, exclusive to this thread

The flywheel locking tool bolts into the starter motor housing, sealey sell one for £35 +vat for all that it is

You only need the cam locking tool at the very end when placing on the belt. There are two types shown in the last attachment. A 10 x 10mm recess in a piece of metal strap interlocks the spokes on each sprocket.

the M5 bolt one interlocks the teeth from the two sprockets

Dimensions are from the centre of each bolt hole.

The two cam sprockets lined up (reading left to right from inlet cam to exhaust cam) <EXHAUST -O- IN> <EXHAUST -O- IN> are under low pressure from the valve springs. They tend not to move although the locking tool keeps it all in check,

If you are removing the sprockets from the cams, a long metal bar with two M8 or M10 strategically placed at a distance of 80mm or so will interlock the cam spokes. This allows some counter leverage from the spanner/socket drive. Just wrap some tape around the two bolts to prevent fouling on the cams.

When the timing belt is replaced, tightened etc , remove all locking tools, rotate the crank several time by hand using the 22mm crank pulley nut. Re-allign the marks as before and re-check. sometimes the marks can be out by a tooth, apparently this is normal
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