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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

recently found ont interweb - might be of interest to someone.

Engine protection system
Overheating alarm system Having once cooked the engine I decided to increase my chances of avoiding a major problem next time round. Therefore I have installed a simple system which warns me visually and audibly when the engine gets hot beyond the acceptable limit.

The system is housed in a small plastic box bolted to the inside of the hinged cover below the steering wheel. The buzzer is fitted on top of the circuit enclosure and the LED on the instrument panel housing.

Circuit description:
The coolant temperature sender in the thermostat housing changes its resistance depending on the temperature. Maximum resistance is reached at the lowest coolant temperature. Voltage registered by the temperature gauge on the instrument panel causes the pointer to move up and down the scale as illustrated on the diagram. For the typical engine temperature voltage at the sender terminal should be between 5.5V and 4.5V. These values are approximate and may vary depending on the type of the sender installed in the vehicle.

An op-amp acts as a...
BBA reman online catalogue

It's got a lot of useful info including solutions to common ECU probs there's a few Gaylander fixes on there. and all the fault codes fer ABS and the like.
Just trawling the 'net this morning and I came across this very informative piece on the K series engine and its various failings. It's from an MGF site but the engine (and its problems) are the same.

MGF (K Series) Head Gasket Developments - The MG Owners' Club
Heres the DIY tools that help make life easy doing the hg repair, exclusive to this thread

The flywheel locking tool bolts into the starter motor housing, sealey sell one for £35 +vat for all that it is

You only need the cam locking tool at the very end when placing on the belt. There are two types shown in the last attachment. A 10 x 10mm recess in a piece of metal strap interlocks the spokes on each sprocket.

the M5 bolt one interlocks the teeth from the two sprockets

Dimensions are from the centre of each bolt hole.

The two cam sprockets lined up (reading left to right from inlet cam to exhaust cam) <EXHAUST -O- IN> <EXHAUST -O- IN> are under low pressure from the valve springs. They tend not to move although the locking tool keeps it all in check,

If you are removing the sprockets from the cams, a long metal bar with two M8 or M10 strategically placed at a distance of 80mm or so will interlock the cam spokes. This allows some counter leverage from the spanner/socket drive. Just wrap some tape around the two bolts to prevent fouling on the cams.

When the timing belt is replaced, tightened etc , remove all locking tools, rotate the crank several time by hand using the 22mm crank pulley nut. Re-allign the marks as before and re-check. sometimes the marks can be out by a tooth, apparently this is normal
Attached Thumbnails


These might help. There is a socket behind the paneling in the rear O/S corner and you can buy the proper plug from LR or ou can do what I did and cut the socket off and use a strip off connector blocks.
hi i didnt have indicators or hazards on my 2000 plate td4 freelander checked the fuses they were fine so replaced the relay a 4 pin found in the fusebox under the steering wheel works fine now hope this helps :)
Look here for all your BeCM problems

Demystifying the BeCM
Adjusting the wheel bearings is the same from the early series to the 300TDi Discovery. The twin taper roller bearing arrangement was and still is a popular arrangement. Vehicle is a 1981 SWB S3.
This is a very easy job, and doesn't even require removal of the road wheel. You do however need to jack the wheel clear of the ground in order to check any play in the bearing. In order to ascertain if you need to do replace the bearing or adjust it - then grip the wheel at the 3 and 9 o-clock position, and try to rock the wheel. If there is some movement - then spin the wheel. If the wheel spins smoothly, then it's pretty safe to say that the bearing only needs adjusting. If there is an audible rumbling, and/or a roughness, then the bearing will have to be replaced.
Front and rear bearings are the same, but on the front, you need to seperate the drive flange from the driveshaft - the CV joint (or U/J on series), prevents you from withdrawing the front driveshaft. On the rear, the flange and driveshaft can be removed as one.

Before jacking the wheel clear of the ground - slacken the 6 drive flange bolts.

(pic 1)

Jack the road wheel clear of the ground, remove the hub cap - steel on series, and a wierd type of rigid rubber on later vehicles.

(pic 2)

Series vehicles have a nut and split pin holding the driveshaft in the flange - defenders and disco's have a circlip and shims.

Remove it, plus the 6 flange bolts.

(pic 3)

If the flange is stuck, and they usually are, use this method (or similar), to break the seal.

(pic 4)

Once removed - the two nuts, and lockwasher can be seen.

(pic 5)

Tap a screwdriver, blunt chisel, or similar tool between the lockwasher and outer nut face.

(pic 6)

The outer nut can now be undone using the correct box spanner or 52mm/1 1/16" socket.
Once the outer nut is removed - remove also the tab washer.

(pic 7)

You should now be looking at this:-

(pic 8)

Using the same socket - tighten the nut and spin the wheel....
Relay Basics: [​IMG]A relay is used to isolate one electrical circuit from another. It allows a low current control circuit to make or break an electrically isolated high current circuit path. One example where a relay is useful in car audio is in the power antenna or remote output of a head unit. We already said that the average remote lead can only handle about one half of an amp of current. If a circuit with a large amount of current must be controlled by the remote output lead of a head unit, a relay could be used to buffer the remote output from the head unit. The basic relay consists of a coil and a set of contacts. The most common relay coil is a length of magnet wire wrapped around a metal core. When voltage is applied to the coil, current passes through the wire and creates a magnetic field. This magnetic field pulls the contacts together and holds them there until the current flow in the coil has stopped. The diagram below shows the parts of a simple relay.
Relay Demo: Drag your mouse over the picture below. You'll see how the relay closes to allow current to flow through the bottom lamp when the coil is connected to the power source. You can see how current flows through either set of contacts depending on the position of the movable contact. If you have a slow connection, you may have to hold your mouse over the image until it loads completely. Since this page has a LOT of graphics, this will work best if you let the page load completely before using this demo. Clicking on the picture will bring the image to the top of the frame. [​IMG]
The table below shows just a fraction of the available relay configurations....