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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

 
Jul
08
Renewing the UJ's

here's how ah did it.....

First ah undid and took off the propshaft.....

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(in the piccy above ah used a 14mm spanner on this particular nut, be aware that they're mostly 9/16" )

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then took off the circlips on top of the cups.....

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then usin' an old socket and a hammer, ah knocked the uj down until the bottom cup fell through and there was enough room to get the top cup out....

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and did the same again to finaly remove the uj (sat it on a bigger socket to stop it bouncin' around when ah was hittin' it)....

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the old and the new uj's....

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Refittig..
took the cups off and the seals, packed the cups with grease to stop the needle rollers from falling over and then pushed a cup into the yoke...

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then ah put the seals onto the uj and pushed it into the cup (being very carefull not to knock any needle roller over)....

then ah stuck the other cap on and using a vice and a nut, ah pushed the cups home (again being very carefull not to knock the rollers over)....

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Jun
29
Manifold removal


Here's how ah did it.....

The engine...

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First ah removed the hose from the air filter to the turbo...

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then ah took the hose off the bottom of the the turbo...

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then unbolted the oil feed pipe from the top of the turbo and where it bolts on down below......

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...and moved it to one side.

Next ah took off the boost pressure pipe from the turbo....

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...and moved that out of the way as well.

Then ah disconnected the front exhaust pipe....

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and moved it out of the way...

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then back under the bus to release the oil drain pipe....

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Back up top, ah removed the two nuts holding the heater pipe on....

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and undid the four nuts on top and three below...
Jun
26
Bonnet cable refitting

This is a VERY easy job to do:D
Found out that me cable had snapped when ah went to open the bonnet the other day! So to get the bonnet to open, ah had to remove the grille and push the lever over so it opened. Had a look in the Haynes manual and thought it must be easier than that! Ah undid the 19mm bolt holdin' the pull thing inside the cab, then back to the front removed the wee clip that's just to the left of the lever that the cable fixes to and taped a piece of wire to the end of the cable. Then ah pulled it back through to the front after releasing the cable from the push in clip just under the coolant tank.
Then it was just a case of attachin' the wire to the new cable...

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and pulling it through to the engine bay....

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Keep pullin' the wire...

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...until it's through the wing...

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Then ah attached this clip...

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pushed the cable through the hole where the lever is and stuck on a heavier clamp bolt thingy....

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then ah fixed it to the lever and stuck the clip back onto the panel....

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Back to the other end...

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..and bolted it back in place.......
Jun
26
Here's how I did mine.....

First I drained the oil from the Transfer Box..
Remove the filler plug (a 1/2" ratchet fits)

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Then remove the drain plug...

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and allow the oil to drain into a suitable container....

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jacking up the front of the Landy will make access easier and allow you to rotate the propshaft by turning the wheel. Chock the rear wheels and support on axle stands too for safety...

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Next, you need to remove the front propshaft. Mark the propshaft and the drive flanges, so that you can replace it in the same alignment.

There's not much room to get a socket or spanner on the nuts...

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so, disconnect the diff end first (where there's more space). This then allows you to push the propshaft up (towards the oil filter) and create space to get a socket on the Transfer Box end nuts.
THE NUTS ARE 9/16" NOT 14mm - it makes a big difference!

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Remove the propshaft and you will see a large nylock nut in the centre of the drive flange. Put the Landy in gear and undo this (30mm socket) - it's tight!

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You can then remove the drive flange and spacer washer and expose the Oil Seal.

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Prize the old oil seal out with a screwdriver, taking care not to damage it's seat.

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This was my old Seal - the round spring, which holds it tight on the drive...
Jun
22
Under BusterB's instructions to not send it to him. He said put it up ourselves.

Your series steering wheel got loadsa play? Heres how to fix it. (or, here's how Tom fixed it, so he's written this. :D) Pictures might be crap, phone cams arent great, even new-ish samsung ones.

How'do

First, get your wheels straight, easy bit over.
The steering box is under a cover, under the drivers front arch on left hand side, and looks like this:

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There are 2 bolts on mine, series 3 82 LWB. I've seen a LHD stage 1 V8 with a slightly different cover with a bolt at the bottom too, thats comes through the bulkhead behind the pedals. These are all 13mm nuts and bolts. Top one i used spanner on the outside, bottom one i used spanner on inside of wheel arch. The top one came off first:
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Helps if you have long arms or an assistant, or both. Took a while to get spanner in right place but did it, then the t'other one:
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This one, i used the ratchet underneath the master cylinder, pointing inwards to the engine under brake lines, pinning bolt with the spanners underneath, which was difficult trying to get it started. Once thats out, the box will either fall off, or just need a slight tug to break the mud layer:

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The box looks like this, check its not spewing anything, and my lock nut bit was greased, dont know if it should be, dont hurt though :D The lock nut (bigger one) is 24mm, and adjuster is 11mm, its too tight to get sockets in there:
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Slap the ring over the lock nut, normal thread, be careful, be...
Jun
18
Here's how Ah did it.....

Firstly ah slackened the wheel nuts and drive flange nuts...

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then jacked the axle up and removed the wheel (might be a good idea to use an axle stand or ye'll end up puttin' the wheel back on and then stickin' one in:rolleyes: :D )....

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Next ah removed the circlip on the half shaft, removed the drive flange and then pulled out the half shaft...

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then bent back the locking washer and used the proper box spanner thingy to undo the lock nut then took the washer off and undid the remainin' nut....

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then stuck me thumbs over the seal and pulled the hub off...

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Next ah removed the inner oil seal (cos it was the easiest) and removed the inner race.....

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After...
Jun
05
Not a big job really, manual says about removing the fan, cowl, etc. Ah didn't have the right tool for removing the fan, so here's how ah did it....

First ah removed the two nuts holding the cowl on ( be carefull 'cos the stud can break very easily like one of mine did!!!)......


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then removed the 4 bolts on top of the panel (2 each side)....

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and then the other 4 bolts (2 each side) on the slam panel..

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Removed the panel to see the top of the intercooler (and radiator)...

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Next ah removed the top pipe and then the bottom pipe from the intercooler....

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Then to give me a bit of room to move the cowl about, ah removed the top radiator hose, lost a wee bit coolant but nothin' major, then unclipped and moved the air filter up out of the way...

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Then with a bit of jiggery-pokery the intercooler came out from the top....

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to clean it, all ah did was stick some thinners in it and gave it a good shaking about to remove any oily crud, then did it again until it was clear. Left it outside in the air last night and all day today to get rid of the fumes and let it dry out.
Refitting is pretty much the reverse. Just remember to top up the coolant and the job's a guid one;) :D

This is just a couple of pics of the bus with "it's" intercooler...
Jun
04
Here goes.
YouTube will host your video but they have restrictions and they are-
1/ your video must be no longer than 10 minutes (I tried 14min-no go)
2/ The file size of your video must be no more than 100mb

Ok to give you an idea, the 14min DVD I made from my latest video was 532mb, much larger than youtube will accept.
I ran the video recorder and edited while I recorded a DVD that came in under 10minutes total play time.
The next step is to download a compression programme which is commonly known as ripping software.The one I downloaded was isofter DVD platinum which is very well laid out, input on the left from DVD, output on the right to a file you set up and a small video screen at the bottom showing your video as it progresses.
The input seems to load automatically from the DVD and you only have to configure the output which conveniently has a youtube setting.Then you press start and it all happens in front of your eyes the finished file is reduced to 100mb or under and you can play the file in windows media player to check it.
Now you need to register with youtube and then you will be able to upload the compressed video.They say this takes a short time but I found on my system it took much longer, in fact I went to bed and left it running.
Once it's finished you can bring up the video on youtube and play it.
The last step is to post it on the forum and to do this follow these steps.
While you have the youtube window open with your video click on more info and bring up the url line, highlight the line and copy it by clicking on edit(tool bar) click on copy.Next bring up the forum and when you have your post ready click on edit(tool bar) again and then click paste. The you tube link will now be in place when you submit. However if it doesn't work please don't blame me - I only gave you the process.
May
20
Fit a PRRT


Contents


Parts Required and Suppliers

Using Land-Rover Kit (PCH001190):
2 off 32mm diameter x 50mm length alloy hose joiners (£5.00 each) - Midland Performance Centre
1 off 32mm diameter x 100mm length alloy hose joiners (£6.00) - Midland Performance Centre

Using MG-Rover Kit (PCH003320):
1 off 32mm diameter x 50mm length alloy hose joiners (£5.00 each) - Midland Performance Centre
or cut a piece from the aluminium tube discarded from the original system

How To Fit

With thanks to SELOC Member Elise_S1
The following page explains how I fitted the kit PCH001190 designed for the Land Rover Freelander to my Lotus Elise S1. Although I tried to use a setup which is as close as possible to the one used by Rover for the late MG-TF, this is NOT an official upgrade and, if you decide to copy it, I accept no liability for any possible consequences.
As my car is a standard late S1, the guide is for a similar car. Although the setup is compatible with all the K powered Elises and derivatives, some models may need some corrections because of their different cooling circuits. Early Elise S1, all cars with air conditioning and cars with aftermarket oil/water heat exchanger do need a slightly different setup.

To install the remote thermostat the following parts are required:



[*]1 Land Rover Freelander Thermostat Kit part PCH001190[/LIST]
  • 1 Spacer to use instead of the old thermostat part...
May
12
A regular question is about if a vehicle is built in ‘72 or ’73. Not easy to answer especially as vehicles didn’t go down the line in numerical order. Below is a table showing the highest number used before 1st Jan ’73 and the lowest number built after 31st December ‘72
If your chassis number is higher than the highest figure, don’t bother, it isn’t tax-free. If it is lower than the lowest, then it is. If it falls between, it might be.
The Heritage Motoring Centre at Gaydon can provide the proof DVLA require, this table will just tell you if it is worth pursuing.
I cannot vouch for its accuracy, but have no reason to doubt it. It was fairly widely circulated when the tax exemption first froze at 72.