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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

Here's how Ah did it.....

Firstly ah slackened the wheel nuts and drive flange nuts...



then jacked the axle up and removed the wheel (might be a good idea to use an axle stand or ye'll end up puttin' the wheel back on and then stickin' one in:rolleyes: :D )....


Next ah removed the circlip on the half shaft, removed the drive flange and then pulled out the half shaft...



then bent back the locking washer and used the proper box spanner thingy to undo the lock nut then took the washer off and undid the remainin' nut....




then stuck me thumbs over the seal and pulled the hub off...




Next ah removed the inner oil seal (cos it was the easiest) and removed the inner race.....



Not a big job really, manual says about removing the fan, cowl, etc. Ah didn't have the right tool for removing the fan, so here's how ah did it....

First ah removed the two nuts holding the cowl on ( be carefull 'cos the stud can break very easily like one of mine did!!!)......


then removed the 4 bolts on top of the panel (2 each side)....


and then the other 4 bolts (2 each side) on the slam panel..


Removed the panel to see the top of the intercooler (and radiator)...


Next ah removed the top pipe and then the bottom pipe from the intercooler....



Then to give me a bit of room to move the cowl about, ah removed the top radiator hose, lost a wee bit coolant but nothin' major, then unclipped and moved the air filter up out of the way...


Then with a bit of jiggery-pokery the intercooler came out from the top....


to clean it, all ah did was stick some thinners in it and gave it a good shaking about to remove any oily crud, then did it again until it was clear. Left it outside in the air last night and all day today to get rid of the fumes and let it dry out.
Refitting is pretty much the reverse. Just remember to top up the coolant and the job's a guid one;) :D

This is just a couple of pics of the bus with "it's" intercooler...
Here goes.
YouTube will host your video but they have restrictions and they are-
1/ your video must be no longer than 10 minutes (I tried 14min-no go)
2/ The file size of your video must be no more than 100mb

Ok to give you an idea, the 14min DVD I made from my latest video was 532mb, much larger than youtube will accept.
I ran the video recorder and edited while I recorded a DVD that came in under 10minutes total play time.
The next step is to download a compression programme which is commonly known as ripping software.The one I downloaded was isofter DVD platinum which is very well laid out, input on the left from DVD, output on the right to a file you set up and a small video screen at the bottom showing your video as it progresses.
The input seems to load automatically from the DVD and you only have to configure the output which conveniently has a youtube setting.Then you press start and it all happens in front of your eyes the finished file is reduced to 100mb or under and you can play the file in windows media player to check it.
Now you need to register with youtube and then you will be able to upload the compressed video.They say this takes a short time but I found on my system it took much longer, in fact I went to bed and left it running.
Once it's finished you can bring up the video on youtube and play it.
The last step is to post it on the forum and to do this follow these steps.
While you have the youtube window open with your video click on more info and bring up the url line, highlight the line and copy it by clicking on edit(tool bar) click on copy.Next bring up the forum and when you have your post ready click on edit(tool bar) again and then click paste. The you tube link will now be in place when you submit. However if it doesn't work please don't blame me - I only gave you the process.
Fit a PRRT


Parts Required and Suppliers

Using Land-Rover Kit (PCH001190):
2 off 32mm diameter x 50mm length alloy hose joiners (£5.00 each) - Midland Performance Centre
1 off 32mm diameter x 100mm length alloy hose joiners (£6.00) - Midland Performance Centre

Using MG-Rover Kit (PCH003320):
1 off 32mm diameter x 50mm length alloy hose joiners (£5.00 each) - Midland Performance Centre
or cut a piece from the aluminium tube discarded from the original system

How To Fit

With thanks to SELOC Member Elise_S1
The following page explains how I fitted the kit PCH001190 designed for the Land Rover Freelander to my Lotus Elise S1. Although I tried to use a setup which is as close as possible to the one used by Rover for the late MG-TF, this is NOT an official upgrade and, if you decide to copy it, I accept no liability for any possible consequences.
As my car is a standard late S1, the guide is for a similar car. Although the setup is compatible with all the K powered Elises and derivatives, some models may need some corrections because of their different cooling circuits. Early Elise S1, all cars with air conditioning and cars with aftermarket oil/water heat exchanger do need a slightly different setup.

To install the remote thermostat the following parts are required:

[*]1 Land Rover Freelander Thermostat Kit part PCH001190[/LIST]
  • 1 Spacer to use instead of the old thermostat part...
A regular question is about if a vehicle is built in ‘72 or ’73. Not easy to answer especially as vehicles didn’t go down the line in numerical order. Below is a table showing the highest number used before 1st Jan ’73 and the lowest number built after 31st December ‘72
If your chassis number is higher than the highest figure, don’t bother, it isn’t tax-free. If it is lower than the lowest, then it is. If it falls between, it might be.
The Heritage Motoring Centre at Gaydon can provide the proof DVLA require, this table will just tell you if it is worth pursuing.
I cannot vouch for its accuracy, but have no reason to doubt it. It was fairly widely circulated when the tax exemption first froze at 72.
For all you petrol heads out there.
Most of these are generic to our series Landrover.
Areas covered are.
All are interconnected when we are looking for a good smooth running engine.

We will start with the engine and I will try and keep it simple.
Compression, if you have a compression tester check all cylinders, they should be similar or the same. If not you could try a squirt of oil in through the plug hole and see if the reading goes higher. If it does it shows the piston rings are not sealing as good as they should, if the reading doesn’t go up but still shows low it’s possibly your valves not seating properly. Burnt out valves, decoke required, too tight valve clearances ect. A cylinder leak test will pin point the trouble

It is pointless proceeding to tune an engine which has a known mechanical flaw like a poor cylinder.
Check your valve clearances, do not be tempted to have them too tight, when checking with your feeler gauge rotate the push rods between your fingers, ( this checks for bent push rods ) if they are bent and you adjust the gap at the widest part the rod can rotate and reduce the gap to nothing potentially holding the valve off its seat. I have also seen the rocker arms with indentations in them causing the top of the valve to rebate into the rocker. Replace if so.
If you are still having problems...
If you have left your landy sitting on the driveway for any amount of time with out moving her then you may get the “Stuck Clutch” problem.
This is when you press the peddle down and get a grinding noise when you try and select a gear.
The problem is that your clutch plate has stuck to the drive plate and is refusing to disengage.
So to fix this there are a number of (Quite brutal) procedures like ramming it in to gear when the engines running etc but this is one method that’s more gearbox friendly and quite quick.

1. On a flat surface jack up and place good axel stands under the driven wheels and chock the none driven wheels.
If you’re doing this on a permanent 4x4 Landy then you will need to get all 4 wheels off the ground.
2. Release the handbrake.
3. Select 3rd gear and start her (The driven wheels should be turning so watch out of Kids, dogs and cats).
4. Wait until the engine is fully up to temperature.
5. Once up to temperature rev up the engine to about 35 MPH and then as quickly as possible press the clutch pedal and stamp on the brake (I know 3 feet would be handy).
6. Restart her if she has stalled and repeat line 5 until the clutch pedal works as normal.

Note you may hear a bang or crack as the plate releases.

The idea is to use the stored energy in the wheels to break the rust binding the plates...
Your Landy is Tax exempt if it was
constructed before 1 January 1973?
and retains 8 points (See Radically Altered Vehicles)

Radically Altered Vehicles
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]40. Radically altered vehicles are vehicles that have been substantially altered from their original specification, but are not kit conversions.
41. Although their appearance is different from the original they may still qualify to retain their original registration marks. The vehicle components used from the original vehicle are allocated a numeric value and provided the vehicle scores eight points or more it will retain its original mark.

42. The point system is weighted as follows; the original or new (direct replacement from the manufacturer) unmodified chassis/monocoque bodyshell has a value of 5, the suspension (front and back) 2, axles (both) 2, transmission 2, steering assembly 2, engine 1.


Here are some links


OK this is for people who are new or unsure on the subject, not mad professor bio chemists . . . .OK we are talking SVO[straight vegetable oil] the sort you can by in the supermarkets , can i use it in my diesel motor Ming? yes but earthlings there is a few thing you need to know, first is [START OFF SLOW] as you will be raking the Shiite out of your fuel tank/ pipes 10% is slow for a month [THEN CHANGE YOUR FUEL FILTER] now you can slowly start upping it. . . .30% is max summer or winter 40% hot summer ,the chip shop smell kicks in about 25% but not that noticeable , OK for most Lrs after year 2,000 is fine but check spec if unsure , for non copper fuel parts ,old type rubber pipes-gaskets etc [fuel parts only] the Bosch is the preferred high pressure pump ,as after 2000 most motors used bio proof parts as some European country's introduced 5% bio in diesel for de -waxing purposes [what happens to diesel below freezing]most of the supermarket stuff i have tested is good, no water or wax,and filtered to below 10 microns. . .the cost of veg oil is now increasing at a fast rate now ,so you are not going to save a lot, about 45p /ltr at this time,you can turn SVO into bio [bio is thin veg oil] however that is another bag of tell. . . .i will try and explain this later also will go into WVO [USED COOKING OIL] and how to do it the easy way, but thats later , so remember earthlings ,check your parts start slow. . .change filter . . .start a slow increase,40%max in summer [UK] . . . .:) :) :)
Preventative Maintenance Tip- Window mechanisms
I am amazed at the amount of cash spent on replacing window lift assemblies.

Why do they fail?

a. A small proportion have motor failures.

b. The vast majority fail due to the bowden cables snapping.

Why do the bowden cables snap?

The cables become corroded due to the unavoidable rainwater seepage into the door voids past the sealing strips at the base of the window glass.

Over time the side channels/runners which guide the glass as it is raised or lowered become contaminated and hardened this causes excessive friction and therefore the window lift motor has to work harder, the driver notices that the window seems to take longer to close/open. Apart from the additional strain on the window lift motor the bowden cable also comes under increased strain. Eventually something has got to give and this is usually the corroded bowden cable.

What's the answer?


Remove door trim panel

Carefully 'Stanley knife' an access slot in the plastic membrane

Operate the window raise/lower function and observe how the mechanism operates (obviously you should not put your fingers inside the door void during this procedure) You should see the nylon blocks sliding up and down in the mild steel guide channels. You should also observe the bowden cables racing over their pulleys. If on close inspection you find serious corrosion in any part of the bowden cable then any further attempts at maintenance would be pointless until the cable is replaced. Mix some clean engine oil with grease in a suitable container and using a small paintbrush lubricate the mild steel channels as far as you can reach.
Now lubricate the bowden cable by raising/lowering the window in small increments and applying the lubricant as each successive section of cable is revealed.

Window runner maintenance

With the window glass fully lowered, impregnate a small piece of sponge with a good quality plastic bumper colour restoration spray...