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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

 
Jan
19
1997-1998 Freelander 1 Sales Brochure - English

Publication LRF/342/98 – Date: 1998

(This brochure was re-issued/updated as LRF/342/98/2R)

I think this brochure was available from late 1997.

This brochure covers the L series diesel and early 1.8 k series petrol.

Loads of people ask about the accessories so here they are.
Pictures are large so you can read the text.
Zoom out in your web browser to see the full pictures.


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Dec
31
2001 Freelander 1 Accessories Brochure - English

Publication LRML1505 – Date: 2001

Loads of people ask about the accessories so here they are.
Pictures are large so you can read the text.
Zoom out in your web browser to see the full pictures.

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Dec
23
1999 Freelander 1 Sales Brochure - English

Publication LR/309/99 – Date: 1999

This brochure covers the L series diesel and 1.8 k series petrol.

Loads of people ask about the specification so here it is.
Pictures are large so you can read the text.
Zoom out in your web browser to see the full pictures.


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Dec
22
1998 Freelander 1 Sales Brochure - English

Publication LRF/357/98 – Date: 1998

This brochure covers the L series diesel and early 1.8 k series petrol.

Loads of people ask about the specification so here it is.
Pictures are large so you can read the text.
Zoom out in your web browser to see the full pictures.


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Dec
22
1999 Freelander 1 Commercial Sales Brochure - English

Publication LRSV9268/99 L1930/03 – Date: 1999

This brochure was produced when the Freelander 1 Commercial was launched.

Loads of people ask about the specification so here it is.
Pictures are large so you can read the text.
Zoom out in your web browser to see the full pictures.


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Dec
08
Updated 13 August 2017.

Land Rover Freelander 2 main dealer sales brochures.

Free download in pdf format.

Freelander 2 = Freelander 2 Sales Brochures

Click the link above to open the download screen. Then click the Download button.
If it asks you to login, select the "no thanks" option at the bottom of the login form.

The above download is from a new site I've only just started to use. I hope it will work for everyone.

If the download stops working tell me. It may intermittently stop working occasionally.

The download includes all sales brochures below.

Some of the front pages look the same but the contents are different.

If you copy this post to another forum, have the decency to acknowledge you copied the idea from Landyzone.
The betterer option would be to link to this fred as I will update it with new information in the future.

If you have your own pdf file copies of Freelander 2 brochures not listed here on this post, please tell me via pm. I would like to collect the full set so I can add them to this post. This includes sales brochures and accessory lists.
An example would be LRML2633/08 which is the 2008 sales brochure.

Sales brochure
Publication = LRML 2470/07
Date = 2007
(8.4mb)
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Sales brochure
Publication = LRML 2839/09
Date = 2009
(15.9mb)
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Sales brochure
Publication = LRML 3281/10 (Revised front end, first mention of eD4 and SD4 engines)
Date = 2010
(15.9mb)
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Sales brochure and accessories
Publication = LRML 3562/11
Date = 2011
(5.3mb)
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Sales brochure and accessories
Publication = LRML 4045/12
Date = 2012
(6.2mb)
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Model options and accessories price list
Publication = ?
Date = model year...
Dec
01
Following on from: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/oil-pump-do-they-need-bed-270499.html & http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/ready-waiting-271271.html I started at just after 9.30 on Saturday Morning…..

Position vehicle on ramps and lower to access (to be able the access the plugs easy enough!)

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Raise the Bonnet and detach the Struts, position in ‘Service’ mode and lock the catches on each side

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Disconnect the battery in accordance with the Owners Manual (Some require you to turn ignition on, then off and disconnect battery within 17 seconds)

Lucky enough to be working in the workshop so I have access to a high powered LED Flood lamp (No heat – Loads of light!).

Drain the Oil from the sump.
...
Nov
29
Issue
When I bought the 90 the front wipers did not work very well, there was lots of backlash; you could move both wipers by hand through a large arc. When the column switch was used there seemed to be total random wiping action, some stuttering, some over sweep (if the blades had not stuttered by then).

You could only manually judge the park by the use of the flick wipe to actually park the blades at a sensible position, otherwise they would just stop anywhere on the screen when the stalk switch was turned to the off position.

The column stalk itself had issues: it had apparently 5 settings:
Speed 2
Speed 1
Intermittent
Off
Flick

None of which worked (except for the off). Speed 1 and 2 needed excessive effort just to get the stalk switch up there.

History
OK. I admit it has taken me 27 months to fix this, but heyho. Mind you other stuff more important than wipers came first, steering box leak, radius arms, steering linkages, rebuild gearbox, replace the transfer box, new clutch etc – and I only have so much money to spread around J

I got ‘round to looking at the wipers in the “summer” of 2012. This was mainly forced on by the terrible rain when on holiday, where it seemed to monsoon for 2 weeks solid.

And the fact that Driving North towards Buxton on the A6 in the rain the driver’s side wiper arm fell off the splined spindle. (Bu&&er). Lucky I managed to stop before the arm and...
Oct
21
The air compressor gets worn over time and can result in Air Suspension Inactive dash warnings. Diagnostics will are best to really diagnose the issue (unless leaks can be heard) but a worn compressor is not an uncommon problem.

When the output is low it can overheat and the ECU will shut it down, also if the output is really pathetic the air cylinder will take too long to fill and another error will result - as said diagnostics will be required. Checking output however is relatively easy:

Checking output

Output can be checked by removing the output line from the compressor which is held by a collet.

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The second video below titled "Changing the compressor" below shows the removal of the output line in more detail.

The air compressor now needs to be forced on by shorting out the wires the are normally controlled by a relay. The relay behind the right hand side panel in the boot / trunk:

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The relay to remove is the black one with the diagonal molded plastic line on it

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Remove the replay and short out the two large spade connectors:

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http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachment.php?attachmentid=64973&stc=1&d=1414077494

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Once the compressor kicks in if you can easily hold your finger over the outlet then the output is not up to scratch.

Replacing the piston ring - wabco compressors: 2005-2005 L322 Only

If output is low then the first thing to do is to try replacing the piston ring:...
Oct
21
A clear video showing how to put the bonnet in service mode and remove the battery

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Permission to link to this video as a 'how to' has been given by Simon Jefferson of PowerfulUK

Notes:

1) You don't need two people to put the bonnet in service mode.

  • Remove both the clips holding the gas struts (don't actually take the struts off). While removing the clip for the second strut support the bonnet in case the bonnet does close (it never has for me).
  • Now take off one gas strut and slip the end under the acoustic padding stuck to the bonnet
  • Walk around to the other strut while keeping the bonnet open
  • Once round the other side, move the bonnet up to the max height, take the final strut off and use the service clips as directed in the video
2) The battery is stupidly heavy - tie any loose cables out the way before removing - mine always seem to get in the way.

3) Remove the earth (-black) lead first before the live (+red), prevents shorts. Fit the cables back in the reverse order - 10mm socket for the battery clamps.

4) After reconnecting the battery you will get a dash warning (yellow triangle) - with the engine started, turn the steering lock to lock and the warning will go.