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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

 
Dec
01
Following on from: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/oil-pump-do-they-need-bed-270499.html & http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/ready-waiting-271271.html I started at just after 9.30 on Saturday Morning…..

Position vehicle on ramps and lower to access (to be able the access the plugs easy enough!)

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Raise the Bonnet and detach the Struts, position in ‘Service’ mode and lock the catches on each side

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Disconnect the battery in accordance with the Owners Manual (Some require you to turn ignition on, then off and disconnect battery within 17 seconds)

Lucky enough to be working in the workshop so I have access to a high powered LED Flood lamp (No heat – Loads of light!).

Drain the Oil from the sump.
...
Nov
29
Issue
When I bought the 90 the front wipers did not work very well, there was lots of backlash; you could move both wipers by hand through a large arc. When the column switch was used there seemed to be total random wiping action, some stuttering, some over sweep (if the blades had not stuttered by then).

You could only manually judge the park by the use of the flick wipe to actually park the blades at a sensible position, otherwise they would just stop anywhere on the screen when the stalk switch was turned to the off position.

The column stalk itself had issues: it had apparently 5 settings:
Speed 2
Speed 1
Intermittent
Off
Flick

None of which worked (except for the off). Speed 1 and 2 needed excessive effort just to get the stalk switch up there.

History
OK. I admit it has taken me 27 months to fix this, but heyho. Mind you other stuff more important than wipers came first, steering box leak, radius arms, steering linkages, rebuild gearbox, replace the transfer box, new clutch etc – and I only have so much money to spread around J

I got ‘round to looking at the wipers in the “summer” of 2012. This was mainly forced on by the terrible rain when on holiday, where it seemed to monsoon for 2 weeks solid.

And the fact that Driving North towards Buxton on the A6 in the rain the driver’s side wiper arm fell off the splined spindle. (Bu&&er). Lucky I managed to stop before the arm and...
Oct
21
The air compressor gets worn over time and can result in Air Suspension Inactive dash warnings. Diagnostics will are best to really diagnose the issue (unless leaks can be heard) but a worn compressor is not an uncommon problem.

When the output is low it can overheat and the ECU will shut it down, also if the output is really pathetic the air cylinder will take too long to fill and another error will result - as said diagnostics will be required. Checking output however is relatively easy:

Checking output

Output can be checked by removing the output line from the compressor which is held by a collet.

[​IMG]

The second video below titled "Changing the compressor" below shows the removal of the output line in more detail.

The air compressor now needs to be forced on by shorting out the wires the are normally controlled by a relay. The relay behind the right hand side panel in the boot / trunk:

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The relay to remove is the black one with the diagonal molded plastic line on it

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Remove the replay and short out the two large spade connectors:

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http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachment.php?attachmentid=64973&stc=1&d=1414077494

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Once the compressor kicks in if you can easily hold your finger over the outlet then the output is not up to scratch.

Replacing the piston ring - wabco compressors: 2005-2005 L322 Only

If output is low then the first thing to do is to try replacing the piston ring:...
Oct
21
A clear video showing how to put the bonnet in service mode and remove the battery

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Permission to link to this video as a 'how to' has been given by Simon Jefferson of PowerfulUK

Notes:

1) You don't need two people to put the bonnet in service mode.

  • Remove both the clips holding the gas struts (don't actually take the struts off). While removing the clip for the second strut support the bonnet in case the bonnet does close (it never has for me).
  • Now take off one gas strut and slip the end under the acoustic padding stuck to the bonnet
  • Walk around to the other strut while keeping the bonnet open
  • Once round the other side, move the bonnet up to the max height, take the final strut off and use the service clips as directed in the video
2) The battery is stupidly heavy - tie any loose cables out the way before removing - mine always seem to get in the way.

3) Remove the earth (-black) lead first before the live (+red), prevents shorts. Fit the cables back in the reverse order - 10mm socket for the battery clamps.

4) After reconnecting the battery you will get a dash warning (yellow triangle) - with the engine started, turn the steering lock to lock and the warning will go.
Oct
15
"I was kindly directed by Saint as to the ability to display hidden information for the car. There are a number of guides on the web but I thought I would write something with formatting and images" ​

BMW Engined 2002-2005 Hidden Menus / Functions
Instrument cluster menus
The first set of hidden menus are displayed on the LCD (contained within the instrument cluster) below the rev counter and speedometer. ​
They menus are by default locked and initially (and after battery disconnection) you have to unlock them. ​
This is achieved by pressing the buttons on the instrument cluster (one of them is the one you use to reset the mile/km counter)​
[​IMG]
So, how to unlock the menus!​

  • Turn the Ignition key to 'off'.​
  • Press and hold the right button (as shown above) and turn the ignition key to the first position​
  • You will first see "Check Control OK", some seconds later you will see "Test Nr.01"
    Push the left button to see the car's identification number. Add the 5 right numbers (not 6) together and write down that number, you will need it for unlocking all the functions. For example: ​
A123457 will lead to 2+3+4+5+7 = 21 (note 1 is not included in the sum)​

  • Push the right button until you see "Test Nr.19"​
  • Push left button until you see the number that is equal to the one you calculated above​
  • Push right button again​
The menus are now unlocked:​

  • Turn the Ignition key to 'off'.​
  • Press and hold the right button and turn the ignition key to the first...​
Oct
04
Hokay, I want to get this out of the way so here is what I did, hope someone finds it helpful.

First the cleared space as already described.

[​IMG]

Here we have the old heater box, bilge bower ,Landy fan then Citroen one.
[​IMG][/url]stage2 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

The Landy fan on the left is held on with a circlip, the other one seems to be a push fit

[​IMG][/url]stage3 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

All the blowers have nearly the same diameters as the air intake moulding so there were plenty of options.

[​IMG][/url]stage 4 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

The bilge fan fits into the intake moulding but the assembly is too long so I cut a bit of the moulding

[​IMG][/url]stage 5 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

Stuck the bilge blower into the heater box and did a test run with it connected to a spare battery, it nearly blew the back door off:D

[​IMG][/url]stage6 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

You can see where it sits under the wing

[​IMG][/url]stage 7 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

All done and with washer bottle etc fitted you can't even see it

[​IMG][/url]stage8 by...
Jul
15
had issue bleeding my clutch, I tried reverse bleeding, power bleeding, vacuum bleeding etc etc as well as a few other known methods.

I decided to make a remote bleeder.
You will need:

2 x 3/8 unf 24tpi make brake pipe nuts
1 x 3/8 unf joiner
1 x length 3/16 copper pipe
1 x bleed nipple

cut pipe to length required and put one nut on before flaring the end with your fav brake flare tool.
fit this to the joiner and screw in bleed nipple to other side if joiner:

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do same the other end:

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you'll end up with this:

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fit one end to your slave cylinder:

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and other end to bulkhead:...
Jun
25
I'm putting this ere so I can link to it.

This post provides links to download the rave disk for free. Free as in you don't pay for it. There are a number of people selling the same free rave disk on e.bay. Don't be fooled by their advertising. They're charging you for the same information you get here for free.

There's a number of rave disks available from the links below which cover the repair of Land Rover products.
These are free to download.

It looks like www.myrangerover.co.uk is now back up and running so the link below points to that site where the downloads are available for free.

Click on the links to open the download screen - slow to open but they do work:

http://www.myrangerover.co.uk/rave-workshop-manual/

rave01 = 624meg
rave02 = 476meg
rave03 = 432meg

rave01 = Discovery 2, Freelander 1 (2001 onwards) 1.8 / Td4 / v6

rave02 = Range Rover P38 and L322, Defender (up to 2002) 200/300tdi and v8

rave03 = Range Rover classic tdi/v8, Discovery 1995 onwards mpi/Tdi/v8, Freelander 1.8/L series

The rave disks download as .iso image files. After downloading them you need to use 7-zip or winzip type programs to open them, to allow you to copy the rave folder out of the .iso image file.

WinZip users:
Download the .iso file to yer computer. Right click the .iso file on yer computer and select "extract to here" and it will create a new folder with the contents of the .iso file in it. Go into the new folder and double click the rave.exe application file to start using rave.

7zip users:
Download the .iso file to yer computer. Right click the .iso file on yer computer and select "extract here" and it will create a new folder with the contents of the .iso file in it. Go into the new folder and double click the rave.exe application file to start using rave.

You can also download the...
May
26
Updated 29 July 2015.

This write up shows the design and measurements used to make my HippoRamps. The original ramp section was shorter. This guide shows the betterer longer design with a shallower slope. It was a bit hit and miss driving up the ramps if the tyres were damp on the original shorter version. My Freelander can now drive up all 4 ramps at the same time. It can also do it in front wheel drive only. You can make taller HippoRamps but be careful of the sill height. Taller HippoRamps will fit under the front bumper ok but not the sill where you place the rear HippoRamp for the rear wheel to drive up.

HippoRamps are made from wood. Each HippoRamp is made of 1 base and 1 ramp. The ramp sits in front of the base and is not connected to the base. I remove the ramp when my Freelander is on the base to stop the ramps being stolen.

Warning: Be careful when lifting vehicles. Always chock the vehicle wheels after driving onto the HippoRamps and use the handbrake. If you intend to release the handbrake don't rely on the transmission to hold the car on the ramps. If the gearbox is in neutral your vehicle could roll forward/backward. If any of the wheels are lifted in the air make sure the other wheels are chocked. Failure to so do could allow the vehicle to move forward/backward. If you drive onto your HippoRamps and your vehicle is not central or unsafe in anyway, drive off them, realign the HippoRamps/vehicle and try again.

Video: HippoRamps

Warning: You need to chock the front wheels to stop your Freelander rolling. Don't rely on the handbrake on its own.

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HippoRamps are made out of lengths of wood cut as below. I used Sawn Kiln Dried Timber as it was cheap and suitable for the job. It has a square edge to work with. At the time of writing this guide the wood was...
May
14
Following on from my previous thread ..... http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/possible-headlamp-ballast-ecu-fault-256103.html

Discotigger kindly pointed out that it would be prudent to ensure all the shattered glass is removed from the headlamp assembly so it doesn’t jam the shutter that is fitted on the HID/Xenon system.

So in true Saint.V8 fashion, I thought I’d do a mini ‘How To’ in removing the headlamp assembly and removing the front glass and interior finisher.

REMEMBER: The HID/Xenon system uses very high voltages to strike the arc in the lamp – as such DO NOT work on the system with the ignition and/or lamps switched on....turn it all off and wait a few minutes to allow for any voltages to dissipate first.

My L322 has a full wrap-around bullbar fitted so I detail the removal of this too as it also has to be removed before getting the headlamp unit out!

The Bullbar is bolted through the front bumper and also via brackets on the side which are fitted behind the indicator unit.

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First...