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Nice work so far, was the IRD from Bell too?

I think on some vehicles you get away without trimming a few mm off the inner, I literally took out 3-5mm so the steering rods clear with the suspension fully down, prob won't need doing unless you plan straddling ruts, bouncing through large pot holes off road when it might bottom out and lock...

Trim removal is a doddle..... In the boot, remove the plastic strip across the back of the boot, under a closed door, 6x torq screws then both side pods which is 1 self tapper, 4 quarter turn fasteners and a couple of clips. Under the bonnet, the fuse box needs removing including a number of...

How does the clutch feel? Mine felt ropey and occasionally almost difficult to get going. New clutch, slave and master cylinder and DMF and all good.

I didn't fancy dropping the rear brakes and hub, save on bleeding brakes afterwards. Yeah I filed down the front inner wing about 3-5mm to allow the tracking adjustment nut to clear when suspension fully hung down. Not got that tracking done yet....will be done shortly before any serious...

Smnbyt I got the lift kit from a guy called SES is so on here to who owns ASA Fabrication, really well made and fit nicely but do cost £139delivered. They are just very tough to fit the rears without disconnecting rear brakes and removing the hubs, I didn't but hense the struggle. He sells them...

Fitted a 40mm lift kit! Got the interior to rebuild tomorrow! What a b1tch of a day but looks good

I've got 5mm spacers all round, to allow my 16' old style freebie alloys to fit over my 03 Td4 calipers and not had any issues to date. Spent ages looking for some 17' ATs and they were like rocking horse 5h1t. Bought some old 16's, set of spacers and a new set of BFGs AT. Plenty of thread left...

To fit the older LR 16' wheels on later freelander, you need to use a 5mm wheel spacer to get the clearance over the larger brake calipers

Fixed the blighter....... Gearbox rear torque reducer aka rear gearbox mount between subframe and gearbox half a turn loose each. Tightened fully and she hasn't 'clicked' from what I'm guessing as a CV joint since

I Reckon it has something to do with you lighter wallet containing nil change

Wrong style tensioner, possibly off an L series or V6. I'll post a pic later, but cheers

In what way Thor? Does the right angle arm just unscrew from the block against the spring?

Afternoon good gents and lasses I've searched and searched to no avail! Right my aux belt tensioner failed on me the other day, the bearing collapsed out the the blue. I've got one on order and apparently it comes as a new assembly ie an arm and wheel. So far I've managed to get the old...

Thanks, sound a better option than just adding packers under the body, will def look them up see if I can find some in the UK.

Liking the sound of those springs? What make are they? Where they from? Price?? Cheers

Cheers for that Teddywood, never thought to check there

I'm getting an ocxasional click at the moment, I'm 90% certain it's from the rear although on occasions I swear it's from the front, think I'm cracking up unless I have 2 separate issues! Can't nail it down to any particular driving style and is fairly intermittent! I keep thinking I've worked...

I've got BFG's A/Ts on 16' rims

I'm a pretty skilled and experienced Spanner monkey and take most things on, but wouldn't dream of this one! Imagine spending a day taking it out whilst its performing poorly, spend a good day overhauling it and then another fighting to get it back in! Worse case scenario it's worse than before...