Search results

Sadly there is only 1 Td5 I know of and that is 200Km away in Montreal Canadians are quite wary of electronics in Defenders Mike

Hi guys! Mike here! Thanks for all your kind words So swing on by and make a request and I will see what I can do I do not do drama, music, effects or any other gimmicky stuff I know I am in Canada and limited to the vehicles I can work on, but I try to cover the stuff that is common for all...

I could but it now depends what the customer wants to do I really do not want to spend much more time on it but it may be possible to fix - thing is, there is no one round here who will touch them - I have 10 hours in this already - re set timing and box back up another 2-3 hours? And if it...

And the fault was.. The front exhaust cam has moved somehow – about 4/5 degrees Rear cam lines up good Belt and tensioner were good So I suspect bent valves Not worth fixing – so if any Canadians need parts I know where there are quite a few Thanks for all your help guys Mike

Yeap I just tested them in the ECU and there was a signal Now taking the front covers off to check the belts Belt looks good so far

I am going to go out and find the pin outs for the crank sensor in the ECU itself - maybe the signal from the crank sensor is weak and thus not correlating with the cam sensor thus not starting I tested the wires from the cam sensor to the ECU and tested the crank sensor off the vehicle but not...

But if the belt jumped during driving I think there would be a power loss or something noticeable? Yes I know the cam sensor is only used for start up, and looking at the cam from the sensor hole the reluctor is a pretty hefty lump of metal in there (and it turns)– no breaks or bits missing...

Thanks Looks like I will have to strip the covers off and check the timing Belt was changed 18 months ago by myself - I have done others and have the tools - ALL parts were genuine Rover parts and the water pump/ tensioner were changed too – the original tensioner was scrap after 77,000 km...

This is one thing that was throwing me, as this is in the WSM If no mobilisation code is received from the immobilisation ECU, or the code is invalid, the ECM inhibits fuel injection and ignition to prevent the engine from starting and I have no injection signal or sparks The problem was I...

So strange how this engine was running great and then over lunch time decided not to start (which makes me think of an immobilisation issue) I have had Disco 2's die because of the crank sensor so that was the first thing to be changed, but I did read about the cam sensor, I have 3 levels of...

Yes genuine parts fitted and tested to see if they were working There is perfect continuity from sensors to the ECU I did suspect the belt could have jumped a tooth, but a long shot - belt was changed 18 months ago and engine was running perfect until it was stopped. I did suspect a jumped...

So I thought I had seen the back of this car but it was towed to my place as it would not start NAS KV6 2003 Cranks, fuel in the tank etc, but I was told that the owner drove home for lunch no problems, jumps back in the car and it would not start. So I check all the obvious things as you...

Hi, I am going to put a 3.9 Isuzu in the Defender 300 Tdi is OK but just lacks a bit of power, and I did an Isuzu 2.8 and was not that impressed, done a few HS 2.8 but they are very expensive and parts are hard to source Going to use the suffix L R380 which was one of the better ones and it...

Did you remove the original engine management ECU? You have to keep this in as far as I have experience as it generates the PWM signal via the crank sensor, for controlling many of the cars electronics The speedo is driven from the SLABS ECU via the wheel hubs - there is no real need to make...

See my post #36 - use the original Td5 sensor as it is dedicated to the gauge - I can only give you my experience from the V8 to Tdi, but the V8 sensor has 2 wires

Quick feed back as I have been a bit busy, but I did the modification and it worked - but not quite.. The TC works and no lights are on, and on the dry there is no ABS as I can see - I have not been able to find a dry long straight yet, but on the ice it gives the ABS a few kicks through the...

He who dares wins Rodney! Anything is better than the system at the moment - driving on 2 inch of solid ice with a D2 is fine - until you need to stop - the ABS is too sensitive I was having a beer with a few mates last night and it seems I am not alone - a few accidents round town due to...

Sorry Typo! Will give it a go Many thanks Mike

I get it - so using a regular 5 pin relay 30 would be the yellow /green from the harness to the modulator 87a NC would be yellow/green back to modulator 87 NO would be through 3K ohm resistor to ground 85/85 via a dash switch Correct?

None of my 3 x D2's have air suspension from the factory So let me get this right If I tap into the YG and fit a 3k ohm resistor via a switch to ground it would disable the ABS signal to the SLABS?