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The alternator does charge. Checking the diodes through the alternator though, I get a reading of 1327mV. Apparently should only read 400-800mV. A few other potential clues, the ignition switch only works as it should with the alternator charge light wire disconnected; when the engine is...

Checked alternator diodes (terminal to case continuity) and reading was 1320. Can't find an absolute reference but this to me looks higher than the 400-800 typically quoted suggesting diode failure......so alternator shot? Continuity through all engine compartment feeds normal and from ignition...

Just back in after lots of head scratching! A few more pics....starter motor/alternator wires, along with thermostat switch, oil pressure switch and inj pump solenoid switch go into a 7/8 pin black plug engine side. The main loom through the centre of the bulkhead plugs into this.......nothing...

It certainly looks like my wiring....I have used that diagram before. My battery is not charging with that small feed disconnected...but the charge light does illuminate and go out after start up....the saga continues.

Awesome, thanks! Pulled the small feed from alternator and ignition works as intended now.....I can turn off me motor! Following up, my charge light still works as intended and does go out. Wondering if I need to fit a 'diode' to address this which apparently goes in-line behind dash....or, if...

The injection pump solenoid feed works exactly as it should in the ignition positions but once engine is running continues to power when ignition off, even disconnected from the ignition barrel.

New autosparks loom that ran the vehicle before engine out and rebuild. Has been labelled and meticulously replaced as it was....but obviously not quite right. I was wondering about the alternator but didn't know where to begin....2 large feeds going in and a smaller female lead to male terminal...

The engine stops when the feed is disconnected from the injection pump. It does not stop if removed from the ignition barrel....it's like it draws from another source only when engine is running. The ignition terminal it is on behaves as it should as described above...definitely switched.

Still no joy after much tinkering. Engine continues to run when ignition in off position/key removed. Ignition connections are definitely correct....see attached photo, (checked as only connection position engine starts in position 2). Feed to fuel solenoid dead when ignition off, power in...

Quick update.....but no fix. Ignition barrel connections wired correctly. Fuel solenoid connection has switched power from ignition (multimeter), but checked only when engine not running. Still running with key off/removed. Still stops only by pulling fuel solenoid connection. Very odd...

I am in Canada; will have a look this evening when most of you are tucked up in bed and let you know tomorrow. I was meticulous with my wiring, labelling everything and thousands of photos. Will check ignition end of the wiring first. The rest of the dash, instruments etc are not yet hooked up...

Update.......I got her running after pulling fuel with a fluids vacuum syringe to the lift pump, filter and injection pump. However, turning the key to the off position did not shut her down. I pulled the injection pump solenoid connection and she stopped. I am sure this one is a simple fix but...

Can this be checked simply by disconnecting the solenoid? If so, I tried disconnecting then priming and turning the motor on the starter.....no luck. Wondering about fuel lines from tank of lift pump. Is there an easy check for the lift pump?

After 3 year rebuild, got to the point today of trying to start the engine, Defender 200tdi......but no go! New starter and battery turns motor strong. I suspect it is a fuel issue as no fuel from bleed screw when bleeding the filter or to fuel pump in-line. Lift pump firms up but nothing after...

Hi and Merry Christmas! Hooking up my heater box after rebuild and can't recall cable control set up. 2 cables from hot/cold & up/down switch (right sided control) and 1 cable from fan speed side (left side control). Where doe the cable from the fan speed switch go??....doesn't make any sense as...

Fixed......the blue relay behind fuse panel. Needed the hazard switch connecting at dash to activate relay......then new RDX relay swap to operate LED indicators.

Completing my rebuild. Plugging back electrics and was going great until no indicators. No relay clicking. Wondering where she might be. Here are some pics. My fuse panel looks particularly 'relay sparse'.

Hi I have read lots of threads but it remains unclear if I should remove the input gear from the transfer case prior to dropping it from LT77. All linkages are disconnected with just the bolts to the gearbox left to remove. I did read the gear should be removed from the back of the case by...

Definitely black/slate- interior light which makes sense- I don't have one but might install one now. SOOO many wiring diagrams- hadn't seen that last one before. Thanks

In a possible answer to my question, looks like could be handbrake warning light switch?? Any confirmation before I button up the dash would be appreciated.