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Wammers wrote: You must be the most cynical ####er I have ever met.

I know the in tank pump is a weakness on 100% SVO. Most of the BMW forums recommend a solid state Facet pump which they say solves the problem. I am presently running the car on a 50/50% SVO/diesel mix. I go up to 75% in the summer. Been running it for 18 months or so. No real problems. I...

defender300tdi wrote: The only thing I can say is that when it is all bolted up with the metal EGR pipe on, the intercooler hose on and the rubber flexi pipe on, it looks like the original. You would have to be a p38 anorak (like me) to spot the difference. The picture you posted rotates...

Datatek wrote: There are lots of EGR removal kits on the market. The Allisport one I fitted is, I admit, a bit over the top and more expensive. However it looks identical to the original (except for the Allisport sticker!). All the pipes fit the same. It is well made. Welding is first class...

I have got standard 16" wheels. At normal height from the ground to the top of the ball (with swan neck fitted) is 45.5cm. Mine is calibrated correctly. The handbook says tow at normal height.

Thinking about it, if you have got a hole in the pipe you will still need a penny at the other end.

I have got one fitted. Bit pricey but well made. Allisport EGR Blanking Kit for Range Rover P38 2.5 diesel Range Rover P38 BMW 2.5 Diesel EGR Blanking Removal Kit | eBay Only a p38 geek can tell the difference.

I think they fit larger nozzles. I want to find out the part number from someone who has their kit.

There is a German company, Elsbett, that do conversion kits for various diesel engines to run on veg oil, either single or dual tank systems. I am interested in their kit that is for the p38 Range Rover (M51 engine). Anyone running one of these? I am particularly interested in what...

Or fit the Allisport one which looks identical to the original. The pipe stays in place but doesn't go anywhere. No one is any the wiser.

+1 Contact cleaner, let it dry out then a squirt of graphite powder.

Does anyone know how and why the updated receiver works better? It must work on the same frequency as the old one otherwise the key fob would not work with it. Presumably the latest circuitry is not affected by other signals which are close to the key fob frequency? Any radio hams on here or...

Check the rivets in the rear trailing arms. The arms are a composite and secured by a couple of large rivets. I have heard of them developing a bit of play. it is usually a loud clicking noise.

Stranger things have happened. Maybe if someone takes both pipes off at the same time without making a note or taking a pic. I remember the other case. It wasn't the pipes in the end.

The rear heater is for keeping your hands warm when you are pushing it.

Mine is very uneven the way it heats up. Bands up and down the screen. some heat up slow others fast.

I still think it worth checking the rear brake pipes are connected correctly to the brake booster. Mine is 4 wheel TC and marked as follows: top 22 ........ RHR bottom 21 .......LHR I think they are all numbered the same, either 2 or 4 wheel TC. Your symptoms indicate it is applying the brake...

Undo a clip either side of the front valance underneath then undo the two bolts under the front bumper and slide it forward. 10 min job unless the bolts haven't been out in 18 years and have rusted in. Then a nightmare.

I am wondering even if at some time in the past the brake pipes have been replaced and been reconnected wrongly at the brake booster?