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What are the forces like ? If I dismantle that link from underneath, and get some sort of lever on the arm, should I be able to operate the downstream clutch mechanism manually ? Just trying to work out why it's bent and what I'm looking at in terms of total work to get the Landie moving.

Trying to put together my purchase list for basic restoration of my Series 2A 1962, and I came across this bent threaded adjuster, downstream of the clutch slave cylinder clutch mechanism. Anyone seen that before ? Any tips on what to expect/ plan for ? Not having started it yet - in middle of...

One wire was live feed from battery - so I attached it to live side of starter solenoid. Two other wires went to either side of solenoid (pos and neg from starter button ?). One other wire came from alternator, so attached that to the positive side of solenoid. Re-attached dangling earthwire...

ps alternator is wired ok

As in picture, seem to have one spade type connector and 4 other loose wires to connect to bare starter. As in nothing connected to starter

Yep, still original diesel. Just can't quite see which wire goes where

OK, great, thanks, will do all that. By clean filters I meant undo them in case there's any water, reassemble and change later. But what about those 4 loose wires - where do they go ?!! Starting tomorrow morning !

Following recent purchase of a 1962 Series IIA 88" diesel, any advice prior to firing it up for the first time in a couple of years ? (LHD, if that makes any difference). Thought I'd clean filters, drain tank, reconnect wires (are they in the right place - close to starter and alternator...

OK ! Sorry for assuming you were on RHD, just Looks like horrendous struggle to get in there. Did you ever change cylinder or just Keep topping up? What were the symptoms - pedal frees clutch at bottom of travel or sinking pedal. Thanks R

Yep, but on LHD (left hand drive) it is really tucked away in the corner of the bulkhead. If I could remove that L-shaped box it would be 10 times easier.

On my LHD Freelander 2004 TD4, in order to get at my clutch master cylinder I need to remove the L-shaped plastic box containing the ECU etc., which restricts access, to say the least. But how do I get it off ?! I can see one side is a sort of clip, but levering that with a screwdriver doesn't...

Excellent logic! OK - removed fuse, and no change so that's the ABS ruled out. To my mind ther are only 4 things that could cause 'grinding' - bearings, driveshaft, ABS, brakes (discs and/or pads) - there's not much else that goes round and round down there. Unless it's some weird IRD thing, but...

Would also be interested in any update on this - have exactly the same grinding symptoms. Have changed pads and disc, no change. Severe grind just on last few meters of coming to a stop, otherwise braking good

Yep, diesel has many advantages, but also disadvantages - in repair costs. Is there a short cut? I don’t know, but I’m not really convinced otherwise after that experience. You could just change all 4. But I certainly couldn’t have - no extraction tools (and not enough skill) - and there...

After experiencing worsening sluggish performance and a horrendous tick-over - but strangely enough quite good mid-top end performance, I visited L/R to get quote on leak back tests/ injectors etc – wow, thousands of francs. So I decided to take the forum advice that made the most sense and...

Do leak back and flow rate test at several pressure settings with a reputable deisel injection specialist. Proabaly failed injector(s) for whatever reason

Could have almost financed a return trip on those prices ! Don't know why things get so expensive out here, but there we go. You should have seen the Swiss quote! I'm sure you'll find it money well spent - post-operative. Get flow rate and leak back at various pressure settings on all 4...

Well I had hesitation, sluggish performance and a horrendous tick-over - but strangely enough quite good mid-top end performance - and didn't really know what to do either. After getting a quote from L/R on leak back tests/ injectors etc that made me go pale and queasy, decided to take the forum...

Will be following with interest because I have exactly the same symptoms. Not long ago I changed the fuel filter after the warning light came on, so you could probably cross that off the list - you've got no displayed lights (low fuel pressure?). I'm going to do a leakback test on the...

Yep, but wasn't 2001 the year the changed the TD4 to the new-look front end, which invloved 'new-style' headlights as well? Which would involve new part numbers etc. So if you have an 'old-style' TD4 (as in linked ad) they are the correct fitting - the different light styles are physically quite...