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An odd one this, my 88 classic has an idle issue, when you start it sometimes it immediately ticksover around the 800- 900 mark, happy days, however every time i come to a stop during my journey the tickover seems to be somewhere else, so low sometimes you cant decifer it on the tacho, and also...

pics as promised, now no laughing guys!!

I'll get the pics sorted this evening but please bear in mind its a work in progress, the front hasn't had it's 2" lift yet (still machining the bits) and the arches aren't finished yet.

slight mods is a slight understatement, i had to take a jigsaw to the arches (very defender esque now) to get the clearance i required plus a 2" lift. followed by a ton of welding and one off arches. If any classic purist spots me there gonna lynch me up!!

Yes it is possible to adjust the steering stops, just had to do mine with the 33's i've fitted. if you look at the front hub assemble from the front you will see a hex head bolt, just infront of the swivel housing, adjust this out on each side, however dependant on how much adjustment is...

I should add with the fronts the spring cup has a piece of plate fitted on top of it with the right size to act as the new bottom bush mount on the damper, because with all the will in the world the damper won't stretch that far!!

the hole in the front spacer was made as big as the hole at the centre of the spring cups around 2 inch, it may of been a guess but it felt educated at the time!! i think your right with the spring compressors, once its all in place the weight of the vehicle will persuade any stubborn rubber...

so what are we saying here, i need someone to stand on the axles and i should be able to squeeze in the spacers? is it just the radius arm bushes needing some persuasion?

You've seen them advertised, ebay etc. I'm talking about the aluminium spacers you pop under your springs to lift your ride height from anyway between 1 inch and 2 inch. Well at £100 i decided to make my own, a few hours at lunch on the lathe and voila!! the backs went on without to much grief...

I think what had happened was, i fitted the wheel nuts but obviously didn't tighten them enough when the wheel was in the air and then when the weight of the vehicle was put back on it, it slipped, I jacked it up this morning, slackened them and then really tightened them, dropped it back down...

So all this frivolity aside, getting back to the original post, all i need to do prep wise is rub down the lacquer until I have a solid surface to work from, then on with the undercoat and then the top coat? anyone got any recommendations to which paint I should be using?

thanks for that tip, it didn't bang when I slowly reversed down the drive but when i gave it a bit going forward there was a clunk from the rear wheel in question! must be a loose wheel right? there was no noise an hour earlier with the standard wheels and i'm sure not even me could of screwed...

Yep got those, its just the other day one of my wheels looked loose when testing the new wheels on the drive and was banging a bit, I assume i didn't get it central!! its hard work lifting on 33's on your own!!

When fitting steel wheels to your rangie do they just bolt directly onto the hub and the chamfer on the nuts central them or is there an insert required to centralise them before tightening? Any help would be appreciated, i'm itching to get these 33's on!!

Hi all, After a few pointers, i'm in the position to paint my classic and have decided on rollering, its only a work horse and I don't want it to win any concourse shows so that said what type of surface preparation do I need to carry out? Obviously keying the existing paint is require but how...

when buying replacement parts am I best going for the performance stuff or just the run of the mill, in particular the leads and plugs?

I'm in the process of giving my '88 3.5 classic engine a bit of an overhaul, I've come to the stage where I want to spruce up the ignition side of things to make sure the spark is as strong as can be. I've got a list of things I think I need but if anyone can think of anything i've forgotten...

No they didn't use sealant, I watched the guy to pick up some tips for next time. Is it possible to apply sealant now the screen is in place? also along which edges do you apply the sealant? I assume down the sides for one but do you do the bottom seal too?

I have a water problem and I don't mean me! I recntly patched a hole in the drivers footwell of my classic, I welded a plate in smothered the underside in silicone sealant followed by several helpings of under body sealant, however I noticed a wet patch on the carpet the other day and it has me...

I know i'm just being a pain now but i need a double cab for people carrying capacity. I was just thinking out loud for my next project thats all, i just fancied a big 4x4 off roader and of course it had to be lr.