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beat me to it oxides. there is enough slide tho in the propshaft to get away with not taking it off. Well there should be/was once..

Yep. Easiest way is to take the floor and seat box out then slide the gearbox backwards on a couple of trolley jacks. The floor isnt held in by very much, if a bolt is being difficult grind the bugger off and replace it. sod £590!

Dot 4 i think. If its lost some fluid there is a bigger problem and you will probs have to drain the lot anyways.

Im sure i read that 8:1 should be about the 160psi mark.

There is a turboed 2.25 on ebay atm apparently done by an engineering company years ago. Turbocharged 2.25 Diesel Series Land Rover Engine | eBay UK Good starting point maybe?

isnt a concourse landrover a contradiction in terms? :rolleyes: you tried looking for a rotten out series with a ok tub?

Yep. :D Before they dissolve completely surely just past the insides with a good thick layer of fibre glass. Slight bodge but wont ever go anywhere!

wynnes stop smoke helps a bit... Im now down to burning a litre of oil every couple of hours of running :D Halfrauds 'classic green motor oil' (20W50) is pretty good. As longs as its reasonably thick mineral oil nothing bad will happen, the modern super thin synthetic stuff is the only real...

whoops. Same end, i meant defender honest :cool: kinda like series 4 tho

teeth chattering. Normal in a series at speed.

There is fuel getting to the cylinders right.. and as Oldseadog said theres should be no spark going on in the dizzy - take out a spark plug connect it to a ht lead and rest it against a good earth. Just watch for a spark when someone cranks it over. Dont do this on the battery! i managed to...

cheers! tried that one, just found my elephant hide seats again :D

Last year i saw a company at the LR southwest show selling coloured series landrover seats. Call me strange but i now quite fancy a set of green and yellow ones as my seats have bitten the dust :cool: I can find no trace of these on the interweb, has anyone got a clue who this company may be!?

That is an awesome help thanks! As it came off a landrover im hoping someone else has sorted out the needles, if it seems more gutless thank usual i could always swap over the needles and retune it. I may keep an eye out for a 2inch su and give that a try..

Reading with interest how you fitted that - some pics would be great! Iv got a 1 3/4 su with some sort of adapter elbow thing off a scrapped series 3. Just gotta fettle it up and work out how the thing goes on. Would i have to get the mixture set or just worry about idle mix/stop on the su...

Try adding female/elderly relatives to the insurance, adding my mother saved nearly 50quid! Why this could be is anyones gues..

I did! Best described as a steep learning curve.. insurance is pretty comparable to a normal car

Im now 19 and it cost me £1400 for a 1966 2a a couple of years ago - going by what my mates pay its pretty comparable to any normal 1.2litre car insurance wise. Dont for any reason mod it in any big way as no insurance companies will touch it until you are 25! (discovered after several hours...

Surely they both need to be pretty accurate to run properly? Or is the valve overlap a bit less important in the petrol as it is spark ignited?

Its a 3mbrg 2.25 petrol. The oldstyle with the timing on the flywheel if any help!