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Well, that was an educational hour. Now knowing I needed to search LZ for "boost alloys 110" and I discover the whole subject is much more complicated than it first appears. (It was so much simpler swapping the alloys on my 306!) So I have learned that... -- LR Boost alloys are the only ones...

The second link Disco1BFG posted was particularly instructive (thank you): "Freestyle or any RRC alloys shouldn't be used on any 110 as they are not rated for a 110's max weight, this goes for some of the Discovery alloys too. LR only approved the Boost or Deep Dish alloys for 110." "the LR...

Thank you. There's lots of information on this site, but knowing what questions to ask is the first stage. I did search 'freestyle', but didn't think of extending it as you suggest. Hadn't thought about the rear brakes being an issue. Fortunately, they have already been converted to disk!

I've recently bought a 110 CSW 200tdi. It has mud terrain tyres on modular steel wheels, which really look the part, but above 50mph you can no longer hear the engine, and I'm sure they are not improving the fuel economy either! I want to fit BF Goodrich ATs, as the majority of my driving will...

1993 - K That's what the LRDirect page says, but Island4x4 reckon its for 1987-on! Dunsfold LR have access to an online parts catalogue which they demonstrated while trying to find some different parts for me. Following the chain of part number changes is a nightmare. The rest of the catch...

I have to trust Dunsfold Land Rovers, who supplied it, as I couldn't work out which I needed. It would help considerably if Land Rover didn't keep changing the part numbers! The part supplied is FQJ500250 -- original Land Rover (made in Switzerland) and three times the price of the Britpart part...

Not really, no. (But thank you, anyway!) You'll see from this picture that the two catches are subtly different, but it still doesn't really explain why the door handle rod doesn't work. Most of the attachments work the same -- eg the lever sticking up on the right is for the inner door lock...

Well, another picture might be helpful, but I'm pretty certain it's correctly fitted. The new catch was very slightly different (for this rod) so the attachment at the catch end was not identical. I can fix the inner handle on with the top screw, but have to leave the other one off to allow it...

M5 -- just unwrapped my new (Bearmach) handle and tried a screw in it! Looking at the seized one from the angled side, it's 12mm (1/2") long. (The brass inserts are about 9mm deep.) (And thanks for the tip about the channel. Fitting new seems a very good idea. I can hear the rust crunching as...

Thank you. I part-drilled the bottom screw, then (out of frustration) managed to get a small mole wrench on it and it undid 'normally'. To answer my own question above, it is a No.6 self-tap screw, countersunk, half-inch long. Now the glass guide is flapping loose at the bottom, and the hole is...

For reference, the second picture shows the repaired door bottom (mentioned in another thread)...after 5+ years. It was primed after repair, as agreed (included in price), but I never got round to over-painting it. Will be treating and painting it before putting it back together!

Probably this one... £110 per door (in Crediton, Devon).

My passenger door lock has stopped working properly (not the cylinder, the actual lock/catch mechanism). I have a replacement, and I am most of the way through removing the old one, but have got a bit stuck... Two problems: (i) Exterior door handle screws are knackered. Removing it will...

Your suggestion of riveting sounds unwise to me -- I think you'll need to pay someone to do the job properly. I was going to suggest you contacted Land Rovers UK (Mells, Somerset). Several years ago they offered a service repairing door bottoms (only) using appropriate-shaped channel...

For the inline fuse, your Haynes manual wiring diagram should help (note the wire colours!). The only ones I can see for a 1983-1994 Defender are for the radio. All others are in the fuse box (or engine bay?), so yours may be for an 'extra'. -- Have you checked that both LED bulbs work OK...

I agree. And using a black wire for a live feed??? I would hope that a "pro" would know that black wires are used for ground connections (on the Landy, at least!). That, and connection at the alternator, makes me suspect the quality and/or accuracy of the installation. I'm in the process of...

Osram Night Breakers have come first in Auto Express product awards 2013 (also 2010, 2011, 2012!). They have good, even projection over 75m throw, whereas standard bulbs can only reach 50m. That 25m is a lot of extra warning when you're driving! (That's what persuaded me.) In the 2014 Tests...

Not crazy, but Defender wasn't really designed for long-distance motorway use. I used to drive my (then) 3-year-old Freelander 1.8 for commuting daily 40 mile round trip. Warm and comfy, and quite fun, but the fuel costs were not good...and then the repair bills started snowballing. After...

Heated rear window in my 93 200TDi 110 is not working. Long story short, so far I have found two reasons:(a) Some toe-rag has removed the HRW relay from its socket :eek: (b) There is no +volts at the Voltage Sensitive Switch. (According to wiring diagram it should be a permanent live.) So, four...

To reinforce what Litch said... When I bought my 200Tdi, the previous owner had installed 100/80W headlight bulbs. (Yes, illegal on-road, but they got through 5 MoTs and nobody noticed!) Anyway, point is, when one failed I replaced it with a 60/55W Osram Nightbreaker -- so I had one of each --...