spot light relay

zeaphod said:

I don't like the look/thought of it being powered direct from the alternator. A "pro" (by my book) job would be to take a feed from the battery or main fuse panel supply, avoiding adding under bonnet wiring. It may be getting the 14v alternator battery charging voltage, which won't be good for it.

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i don't like the idea of it being direct to the alt too. it also doesn't look 'pro'

but it doesn't matter really. if the alts pumping 14v out then everything is getting 14v, makes no difference if you move the connection to the bat or not.

just looks burnt out to me, what brand was it?

Check your inline fuse holder make sure that hasn't burnt out and just shorted, I can't see how it hasn't blown a 15 amp fuse and done that to a 30 amp relay.

You need to check what wattage the bulbs are in the spots as well.
Check the voltage coming off the alternator getting to the relay, make sure it's in the tolerance of the relay. I have seen cheap relays that have a 7 to 13 volt range.

When the relay goes do the lights flash on and off rapidly or just stop working.

Just stop working

Sorry if I'm jumping on this thread.

I have an issue with power not getting to my main relay (D90 TD5), I had the issue of the fuel pump not kicking in after ignition

Accidentally sent that before I was done, my bad.

Basically my fuel pump wasn't kicking in... in turn jeep wouldn't start and temp. gauge shot up to max and no heater plug light etc. after doing a host of checks

-earths
-inertia switch
-fuses
-battery voltage etc.

I found that power wasn't getting to the main relay. Relay itself was fine and tried swapping it for another to check. When I manually switched the relay by hand the pump kicked in and dash lights returned as usual. Jeep fired and ran normally. Let go and it dies.

The problem is I know its most likely a wiring issue but as the jeep is stored way from my house getting the time to go there and then get searching through wiring is difficult. Has anyone any idea of where the problem might be specifically?

Tano said:

Accidentally sent that before I was done, my bad.

Basically my fuel pump wasn't kicking in... in turn jeep wouldn't start and temp. gauge shot up to max and no heater plug light etc. after doing a host of checks

-earths
-inertia switch
-fuses
-battery voltage etc.

I found that power wasn't getting to the main relay. Relay itself was fine and tried swapping it for another to check. When I manually switched the relay by hand the pump kicked in and dash lights returned as usual. Jeep fired and ran normally. Let go and it dies.

The problem is I know its most likely a wiring issue but as the jeep is stored way from my house getting the time to go there and then get searching through wiring is difficult. Has anyone any idea of where the problem might be specifically?

Click to expand...

best off making your own thread

And while yer at it see if you can call it a jeep a few more times.....Folk love it and come over all helpful

trax said:

i don't like the idea of it being direct to the alt too. it also doesn't look 'pro'

but it doesn't matter really. if the alts pumping 14v out then everything is getting 14v, makes no difference if you move the connection to the bat or not.

just looks burnt out to me, what brand was it?

Click to expand...

Not quite, for a reason that I can't exactly remember. However the battery has an effect of smoothing the power supply to the load. If the alternator is faulty and spiking out 17v now and again, that may be enough to fry things directly connected to it. A battery connection would be better.

blue beasty said:

And while yer at it see if you can call it a jeep a few more times.....Folk love it and come over all helpful

Click to expand...

Yeah, the Jeep forum is somewhere else. I believe they call it hell.

Im hopless when it comes to wiring.
I have 2 wires behind the front grill for spot lights, both live, which are joined up to the main beam, I followed thwm and am sure they lead into this black box on left side of photo with the 2 brown wires leading from it.
Is this a relay???

Yes, that is most likely a relay. However, I don't think the spots should be connected to the main beam at the lights. I suspect when you put the main beam on, the relay is supplying the spots and the main beam. That would explain the relay burning out. It needs to be rewired properly. At least remove the spots until then, before you have a fire.

The live wire comes straight from the main beam standard wiring to the spotlight?

What kind of spotlights are these, do they have 2 sets of lights in them,
A low power set that comes on with main beam and then a bright set that comes on with full beam (flash).

border said:

Im hopless when it comes to wiring.
I have 2 wires behind the front grill for spot lights, both live, which are joined up to the main beam, I followed thwm and am sure they lead into this black box on left side of photo with the 2 brown wires leading from it.
Is this a relay???

Click to expand...

a lot of people use the main beam as the relay input, so the spots turn on with the main beam. the power supply should go to the battery or somewhere with a beefy connection rated for the amps.

Relays can be a bit fussy about voltage fluctuations, some also have a low max voltage rating. Both of these scenarios possible when wired to the alternator. Get it wired into a regular 12v feed ( i.e. Battery ). Should sort things, as long as the rest of the wiring is good!

[email protected] said:

Should be dry, its under the top of the wing, and all the wires are dusty.

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The pic of it kind of looks rusty to me, just a guess though.

zeaphod said:

I don't like the look/thought of it being powered direct from the alternator. A "pro" (by my book) job would be to take a feed from the battery or main fuse panel supply, avoiding adding under bonnet wiring. It may be getting the 14v alternator battery charging voltage, which won't be good for it.

Click to expand...

I agree. And using a black wire for a live feed???

I would hope that a "pro" would know that black wires are used for ground connections (on the Landy, at least!).
That, and connection at the alternator, makes me suspect the quality and/or accuracy of the installation.

I'm in the process of replacing the spots on my 110. I'm discarding the previous owner's wiring, which was a bit iffy, fitting a fuse/power block in the battery box, and running wires from there. (Not yet sure where I will put the relays -- probably in the battery box too.)

FYI I'm using this 1 power in 10-way fusebox from Boltonbits. It's rated at 30A per circuit, 100A total, so it should cope with a few lights and the air horn! Beauty of this is that you only need one nice chunky wire from the battery for all the extra circuits you're adding.

Fair point regarding the colour of the feed wire, perhaps I will run a wire to the battery

Yoda would say - there is no perhaps. do, or do not. Honestly, do it.