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The ID3 HV heater matrix fits perfectly into the heater box. I had to remove the internals of the box since the matrix goes right across the width of the box. But since it's controllable I didn't need the first flap for heat control. Having a CNC plasma cutter at work was quite useful for making...

The project is alive again! Took a bit longer than I expected to get back to this. Now it's the primary project at least until the initial field tests are done with the electric Leyland, which might take a while if it keeps bloody raining. I finally removed the gearbox and transfer box from the...

Think I found a set for future reference. No part numbers unfortunately. Here

Thanks, I thought that might be the case. I have a set of pre 2000 pads and discs. Made that mistake before! The clips are a little worse for wear and I think a contributing factor to a pad sticking, causing me to have to do this job again a bit early. Do you happen to have a part number or...

Planning a brake rebuild and looking some new brake clips on my Freelander. It's an older 1999 model so parts seem to be getting trickier to find. I can find part number SFK500010, but most listings say it is for VIN 1A000001 onwards. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-SFK500010 Does anyone know if...

It's been a slow year for the poor Land Rover, other projects have taken priority and I have been fairly laser focused on them. The engine got sold back in January to live a new life in a Turners Offroad build. The money then got turned into Chassis replacement parts. I made the decision...

Had a bit of a rumble/grinding noise develop in the last few months. Assumed it could have been the IRD on the way out, so removed the prop thinking the noise would go away if that was the case. Noise remains, the flange also seems in good condition. Not much backlash etc. It has slowly gotten...

Fixed my rear door not opening! The wire in the handle had broken away from the connector. So I bodged it with a choc block for now. Should hold for a few years!

Possibly unrelated but a symptom I get on my L series when my lower engine tie rod is worn out is 1st gear getting really hard to go in and also reverse being a bit more crunchy than usual.

You are also welcome here for a charge and a nose around the assorted electrical stuff, plus a rare L series Freelander! I'm down near Bath in Somerset. On the DC charging front, I believe Chademo has been pretty widely hacked and isn't so tricky to implement. Tesla in Europe use CCS in their...

I have it running on my own VCU that I designed around a Teensy 3.6. It runs my contactors, dashboard dials, and sends the right signals to the open inverter control board to run the inverter. It also sends the canbus code for the charger when it senses that the charge port is connected. I...

You got those connectors from me! Glad they got to you ok. I did a similar thing to you, spent weeks trying to charge with my Prius inverter, gave up when I tripped out the mains and killed my teensy. Got the Outlander charger working in a couple of days as well. You definitely don't want to...

I'm planning to do very similar. Put the L series from my old Rover 25 into my 110. Quite far off doing that at the moment though. Figured it wouldn't be too hard since like others have said the Perkins Prima was a common enough swap back in the day. At one point recently I did see someone on...

Not today but a week or so ago. Made it a twin engine for a short time. Bringing a 2.5NA that work needed up from Devon. Gained some extra character scratches getting this one in. I think I was starting to get near the limits of what the rear floor could support! As you can see I have already...

Yup the F is a pain in the ass to convert. Wish I chose a bigger vehicle! As said before I'm losing the passenger seat and fitting 100Kg of batteries for around 60 miles of range. So weight wise it's having a fat passenger on board all the time. But theoretical max power of 182HP, will have to...

I'm pretty sure it hasn't been on a trailer for a while. It was driven around the Mendips in the 2010s before being parked up in a wood for two years. I got it "road worthy" and MoTed before I drove it around a little while and then took it to the farm for this restoration. I do wish I could...

Got the rear tub off recently. Chassis has three main areas of rot. Rear cross member which is already going to be replaced. Front outriggers which are easy enough. Then the A frame cross member, which is slightly more tricky but apparently common enough and replaceable. Does look pretty bad...

That's less than scrap value these days! Bargain for an L series.

Got a few more parts off recently. If I am lucky the bolts snap off, if I am unlucky they round off. One or two have come off normally. Some components will probably take less time to put back on than they did to come off! Chassis has a bit of rot in it at the front around the bulkhead...

Well I do not recommend poly bushing the engine tie rod. You can feel every single engine and gearbox vibration. On top of that it didn't fix the knocking or the gear change! Changing the top engine mounts now, if that doesn't fix it I'll look at the gearbox mount which is looking a little...