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Can I ask how your trip went? We're thinking of doing something similar next May. Were Bushlore OK to work with and was May a good month to go? Thanks.

I know why some have an offset and which way round they go (the offset goes towards the thrust side of the cylinder), I've just not come across it on any other set of pistons for the Rover V8 (other than the 4.2).

Hi, I haven't posted on here for a while but having started a rebuild of my 3.5 i have a question. I've got some new HC pistons and and I've noticed that they have their gudgeon pins offset by about 1.5mm. I thought it was only the 4.2's that had this and that it was only 0.5mm. Has anyone...

Thanks. I thought a suppressor was put on the HT side of things. I'll reconnect it and see if it makes any difference.

Yes you're right it would be Thor. I've just checked and GEMS only ran up to about 1999.

Is there any reason why I would have a condenser connected to the coil when I've got electronic ignition? There was one connected to my 3.5 and also one in the wiring loom on the 3.9 hotwire I've got in the garage. I thought they were only required if the dizzy had points.

I believe it should be GEMS if it's badged as 4.0 on the plenum chamber and it will be a long nose crank.

If you've got SU carbs then you need to remove them as the float chamber is underneath, accessed by removing the lower cover plate. See section 4 here: http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-hif-type-carburetter-dismantling It's also worth removing the suction chambers (only 3 screws holding them on)...

If it runs properly on the choke then it's probably a fuel problem. Could well be dirt in the float chamber that keeps blocking the fuel slightly. If it is this then the engine should run very 'lumpy' when the problem is happening because it will be blocking fuel to the cylinders on one side.

The other thing to check is whether the flexible fuel lines have started to delaminate inside (due to the higher ethanol in petrol nowadays). It could be enough to block the fuel line slightly/occasionally.

I don't know much about the P6 based V8 specifically but for the first problem I'd check for a worn fuel pump or poor connection to it. Once you get above a certain speed the fuel pump can't supply enough fuel and the engine will drain the float chamber. It's only once you slow down that the...

I had the same idling speed problem on mine. When I rebuilt the engine I replaced the butterflies with ones without the overrun valves as Neil suggests. Not sure whether it was that that fixed the problem but it is OK now. It's worth doing as there's no downsides.

Possibly but you might want to let it evaporate before starting the engine. If you remove the elbows leading into the carbs and open the throttle fully you should be able to see the overrun valves and see if they move easily with a long screwdriver.

Are you still on carbs and if so are they Strombergs or SUs? If SUs it could be the overrun valves in the butterflies are sticky from the years in the barn. When you coast to a standstill the vacuum increases in the inlet manifold which opens the overrun valves to let air in. If they stick...

Try these instructions which I've used to set up mine. Depending on what you want to spend it's worth buying an air-flow meter (the one from Burlen works better than the Gunson one) and also a Gunson exhaust gas meter. My engine was much smoother after doing this and I've just moved them over...

The XS Powerpacks are good https://www.britpart.com/parts/miscellaneous/portable-powerpacks/da1239/ I've used one to start my Disco 4 when the battery was so flat the central locking wouldn't work. They hold their charge for months at a time if they're not used.

There's this rebuild manual which might help.

The engine is still on the stand so hard to take a good picture but these are the best I could do.

When I stripped my engine down I forgot to take a note of the position and orientation or the real crank oil seal. I fitted it yesterday so that the rear surface is flush with the engine block. Does that sound about right? Also, I assume it has the flat surface racing out to the back. Again...

I just got my block back from Turners and and it all looks like a pretty good job. I got a quote to replace the liners from a local engine rebuilders and they were more expensive than Turners. I thought about it for along time but then decided I might as well get it done properly so the engine...