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Window wasn't lowered completely when replacing as I needed to raise it about 1/3rd of the way to access the bolts that clamp the pane of the glass to the runners but when the battery was reconnected the window lowered fully to the calibration position then I held the 'raise' button on the...

Hi there, Bit of a weird one - recently had to replace the cable as it had eroded and snapped off at one of the metal runner blocks. Easy enough to replace though I'm experiencing a couple of issues: 1) Window doesn't drop when opening the tailgate though is happy to automatically put itself...

Are you able to test the rotary coupler for continuity with a multimeter? Looking at the circuit diagram there isn't much to it. If the alarm triggers the horn then it must either be with the cable or the coupler.

If you fold the rear seats up you should be able to peel back the boot carpet and get access to the fuel pump - I'd take the plate off it (6 screws I think?) and just check to see if nothing's loose or degraded? I've attached what it looks like on my 1.8 (just one line to the right that clips)...

Sounds akin to what happened to mine - popping sound in the end was down to a burnt valve on cylinder 2. Still haven't got rid of the engine light but after a new set of valves, seals, head gasket and various other parts (and fixing stupidity) I've got her running well. PRT stat relocation kit...

Thanks very much, certainly a load of my mind. Sitting pretty at about 800/900 and barely stutters. Next on the agenda is that read window mechanism.

Solved! Runs like a dream now. Lesson learned, check the most obvious stuff first!

Got up a few hours before work this morning and checked the timing - it was bang on though I noticed I hadn't put the tensioner on correctly (the bolt that should go within the wire frame was just below it - whoops!). Took it off and figured out it's significantly easier to adjust the belt...

So I've had a look at it but can't find anything breaks in the wiring from rubbing against the head or the like. I opened up the E box and had a look at the ECU just in case but it's the cleanest thing about my hippo! Drove around in it for a bit and I'm certain it's some form of fuel metering...

Partially my understanding as well - thinking that if it were timing I'd have misfires and such all over the place but I've come to expect the unexpected out the 1.8 hah. I'll give the cables the once over soon and check that the plugs are seated correctly as well as the timing. Unfortunately...

It had a much worse rough idle but was fine when driving - certainly nothing noticable when it was moving, which is the issue I'm having currently. Shall get the timing checked when I finish today and have a look to see if there's anything in the wiring.

Went out on my lunch break and gave it a bit of throttle, I was mistaken in my original post about the idle going between 900-1200, seems to be hovering around 1100 though bounces a little bit +/- 100 either side, seems a bit to high? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6Mcs6Wz6as Video would...

Shall try that over lunch and get back to you. Definitely the right belt (automatic - LHN100560L) and I replaced the automatic tensioner that was on it already, followed a forum post with pictures about setting it though after putting it on the crank sprocket and pulling it up to the exhaust...

Thanks to those who have helped so far, weekend there was spent getting the manifold seated properly (oddly surprised at how easy it was to remove the radiator - though removing the screws for the bumpers was a pig of a job being exposed to the elements for what would look like the life of it...

Was my original train of thought and it is probably the better of them, cheers!

After doing the sump and such I got round to putting the exhaust manifold back on today, everything was going swimmingly until I heard this faint pop and pulling the socket out of the engine bay yielded the stud attached to the nut. It pretty much took off all the thread in that stud hole and...

Coolant way to the exhaust side of cylinder 2 was full of crap - cleaned out and tidied up the casting a little bit so unless it's not that I'll be rather stumped :s

Removed the head to get at a burnt exhaust valve on cylinder 2, stripped two head bolts taking it off and sat for about 20 minutes between sheer terror and abandoning all hope. Managed in the end by tapping a smaller torx socket onto them and taking them off that way after replacing my...

Got the head off my Freelander as it has a burnt exhaust valve on cylinder 2 so I'm basically taking the opportunity to fit all the new parts I bought a while ago while it's all in bits. I have an uprated oil rail to fit as well though I've had a quick flick through the RAVE manual and can't...

That has crossed my path when searching for potential issues before and people have had decent results with the ELM327 readers on a petrol but I'm having hee-haw.