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Or air leak.

Absoultely - the alignment is a function of the track rod between the wheels, not the drag link. Just adjust it until the steering wheel is straight when drivng, and that's job done.

You still haven't explained that??

Why? Surely a car dealer with a stock of cars isn't terribly unusual???

I think Vogue is just a term that people throw about, so I wouldn't get hung up on the misuse. That's a nice-looking car.

I just took the engine out. Nothing terribly complicated about it.

If you sold the car in good faith, you have a clear conscience. I'd advise against writing to him any more or leaving any more answerphone messages - all it takes is for someone to misinterpret something you've written or said and you could land yourself in it. I'd ignore him, to be honest.

Totally agree. This is their problem, not yours. As soon as you start getting involved in sorting out the problem you blurr the lines on responsibility. I would stay well away from the car until they either return it in fully working order or buy it from you at the full value of a functioning car.

I don't think that will make any difference if the fault is in the potentiometers - it's the movement that eventually wears them out. Going from hot to cold will push the pots into settings that they may not normally encounter, but a one-off movement to the extreme of their travel won't make any...

You need to take out the passenger airbag and the instrument pod to get to the motors on either side (2 on one side, one on the other). If all you are doing is replacing the pots, that can be done in-situ. These are the ones I used...

They blend the hot and cold air to give you the temperature you desire. If you ignore the fault they will just stay in whatever position they are in now and you will be stuck with that temperature of air coming out. I fixed mine for a few pounds - a common problem is the feedback...

And the answer is: Glow plugs! Thanks to those that took the time to offer help.

The bleed pipes are only a few months old (good quality) so I'm ruling those out, but a good thought so thanks for the reply.

A few days ago, out of the blue, the P38 wouldn't start. After a few tries it reluctantly came to life, then ran and drove perfectly. The next morning, same deal, except I didn't bother with trying too long and just took a different car. My initial thought was a faulty lift-pump. The car was...

Exactly. Same as push-fit plumbing pipes. It's so that the pipe can't just pull out - the more it tries to, the tighter the collar grips.

I've left mine with the battery off for weeks on end without any problems, as long as the car is unlocked/unalarmed when removing the battery. The only time I had a problem was when the battery died while it was locked and alarmed - that was an entirely different matter that made me glad to have...

The viscous shouldn't be doing anything if he's cruising along at 70mph - the 70mph of airflow through the rad should be more than enough.

I think his link is to the For Sale section!

I think Nanocom is always the answer to this question. I've not noticed the 'flavour of the month' type of uncertainty. Some people have other diagnostic solutions, eg Lynx, but they are less capable systems.

Could be the BECM has lost sync with the ECU. I guess they weren't P38 specialists?