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Thought I'd add some pics. You can see the dirty contacts and where I'd removed one of the (dual) relays. I wouldn't recommend breaking into sealed relays like I did here - very easily damaged - but it was very late and my patience had already gone! I did tape them up after cleaning. A better...

Just to wrap this up, I fixed the CCU late last night. Relays had erroded contacts. Two cleaned up OK using fine emery paper, the 3rd (dual relay) was too pitted so removed and replaced with two separate gash 12V relays I savlaged off other electronic kit. Now all working. Thanks for your help lads

I can't believe ALL the latches would fail at once. Same symptoms if just one of them fails? Any way to find out easily? I guess the driver's side may be a "master" and therefore more likely to be the one that's failed? Thanks.

Ah, press and hold DOES cause the rear window to drop. I'll investigate the latches then.. Thanks!

> Does your car key itself work all the locks. The key opens the drivers door and the tailgate. > Does the tailgate drop with the fob a(nd) return with the key okay. Yes, if I unlock the tailgate with the key, the window drops and tailgate opens when I pull the handle, as normal. Tailgate...

Evening all. Odd fault today on the 2004 TD4, the remote central locking isn't unlocking the car. It locks on the fob, all doors, but unlock turns the interior light on and I can hear a small relay somewhere, but no doors unlock. I can use the key on the drivers and rear door, but the other 3...

I believe it's 25ft/lb, but as I didn't have a torque wrench mine got my best guess, which was tight for a 3/8" ratchet, but much less than I would get with my 1/2" ratchet :-)

There are 3 parts to the special tool, the outer is just a locator, the middle is the bit that holds the sproket in place, and the inner bolt which is for freeing the taper. So yes, the inner can/must be removed once the pump is off - you wouldn't get the pump back on properly with it still there.

Blimey, sounds like you've got quite a rebuild to do then. I found I could reach the 2 starter motor bolts quite easily with the battey tray still in, but maybe the tools I have were more ideal. I left the two small rubber pipes on the pump, and also the long stainless pipes still connected via...

Well I finished the job on Sunday PM - about 3 hours or so. I didn't take any other pics, but it's quite straight forward really. The 17mm hex blanking plug was tight to remove, but once I found the socket adapter I knew I had somewhere, it was OK. The outer ring of the special tool I used...

Hi all, The HPFP seals on my TD4 recently failed. I've used the previous advice here on changing them and with the special tool and Bosch seal kit, it's not been too bad a job. The pump is now ready to go back on, but I just wanted to share a pic of one of old seals - the one on the topmost pump...

Had some recent trouble with my TD4 and mine would do this if I disconnected the Low Pressure fuel sensor, which is on the near side inner wing. Clean the contacts with switch cleaner. This sensor does dissemble if you're careful, check my post for pics. HTH

If it's a cheap (£30) Ebay pump with black end cap then that's the problem. I have recent experience with them and know that they are louder and are low on fuel rate and pressure. The original (grey top) pump is from Poland and much better but £130. Whilst you're there, remove the 2" rubber...

Thanks for the comments fellas. Hope the story and info/pics might help another Hippo owner at some point. Incidentally, I'll keep the pressure test kit, I like to have the right tools on the shelf, and this kit's a keeper. Don't want to temp fate, but the landie is now going better than ever...

At last! Problem solved! So just to complete the story, I tried to check the regulator wiring through to the ECU but couldn't find the wires. There was 12V and 3V on each of the regulator pins with ignition on, which I now know must be OK. I couldn't restrict the flow on the return pipe to...

Thanks for the suggestions. Just wanted to post an update. Rather than start shelling out for replacement sensors, I bought a fuel injection pressure test kit from Machine Mart for £42 which I'm very pleased with. Clarke CHT713 Fuel Injection Testing Kit – Test Port - Machine Mart So I...

Thanks, strangely I haven't any complaints about the turbo. My previous car, a Seat Toledo had the variable vanes and that kept getting jammed on max, causing overboosts. Back to the Freelander, I still have a thought that it could be a fuel pickup issue from the tank. I will attempt to make a...

Just removed the LP sensor (or whatever it is). Pic below, and as you can see, the bolt with top clamp holds it together and it comes apart easily. Anyone have one to measure statically or know where to get one (yes, I'll Google it in a sec)?

Bad form I know to keep replying to my own post, but hey. I decided to have another look at the LP fuel sensor which on on the near side inner wing. I tried unplugging it again, and as before, the engine is the able to rev right up to the red line with no MIL light. However, if you drive it then...

Ok, another test. I unclipped the fuel return hose where the screwdriver shows in the attached pic. This is on some sort of coupling that I believe diverts return flow through the cooler before going back to the tank. I've only tried it with the ignition on, not engine running, and so the LP...