2004 Freelander TD4 High Pressure Fuel Pump Refurb

Hi all,
The HPFP seals on my TD4 recently failed. I've used the previous advice here on changing them and with the special tool and Bosch seal kit, it's not been too bad a job. The pump is now ready to go back on, but I just wanted to share a pic of one of old seals - the one on the topmost pump chamber which I could see was where most (all?) the fuel was leaking from. It does look like it's been attacked by the chemicals in the fuel, and I do tend to frequently add Redex Diesel Treatment to help with the injectors seals leaking off and causing irratic idle (which it does). Maybe this contributed - who knows. Maybe it was assembled poorly before. Anyway, new seals in and the famous Haynes "reassembly is the reverse of the above" is planned for tomorrow.
Cheers!

Thank you for sharing I need to sort out my spare one

Need to do this myself today local Garage wanted an astronomical labour charge just to bolt off and then order a new one. Think I would rather try to save this one.
So being completely inexperienced I have searched the net, ordered the sprocket retaining tool and a Bosch CP1 Gasket kit.
I have stripped the inlet manifold away about to remove the engine mount and starter motor but now i'm worried the pump really isn't timed to the engine?
Thought I read somewhere that earlier models are?
Just need some reassurance before I unbolt something and break it.
As you have jsut removed yours anytips on undoing the actual pump, links to good descriptive threads/videos, or do I just go for it?
I have an '04 TD4

Thanks
Matt

and I do tend to frequently add Redex Diesel Treatment to help with the injectors seals leaking off and causing irratic idle (which it does). Maybe this contributed - who knows

Click to expand...

here's the Redex ingredients :
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1634748.pdf
just google the separate parts ..
e.g. ' 2-ETHYL HEXYL NITRATE ' (2EHN) is used to raise the cetane number of diesel fuels.
e.g. ' NAPHTHALENE ' .. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphthalene ..

all the additives i've seen have a corresponding ' safety data sheet ' available online

my preferred one is ' diesel rhino ' ..

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cheers for sharing the pic 'n info ..
would be curious to know what did cause that damage to the seal

but now i'm worried the pump really isn't timed to the engine?

Click to expand...

how do you mean .. " timed " .. ?
the td4/m47r engine be a 'common rail' fuel injection system
injection 'timing' is taken care of by the engine-management computer
which relies on the input from various sensors to determine ..
when to inject the fuel .. and how much fuel to inject
the high pressure fuel pump .. as far as i know .. simply provides
the high pressure fuel to the common rail .. that feeds the injectors ..

why the worry ?

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maybe this will help ?
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andymacs/index.html
( andy mac be a landyzone resident )

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Well I finished the job on Sunday PM - about 3 hours or so. I didn't take any other pics, but it's quite straight forward really. The 17mm hex blanking plug was tight to remove, but once I found the socket adapter I knew I had somewhere, it was OK. The outer ring of the special tool I used (Laser), was a bit reluctant to screw in to where the blanking plug came out. Had to file a taper on the last 1 or 2mm of thread.
You really don't need to worry about pump timing. It just spins and the electronics sort out the injection timing. It was hard to do up the innermost part of the special tool which just breaks the taper shaft snug fit if the pump. The engine turns. In gear and it wanted to move the car! Had to use a large screwdriver to the flywheel ring gear and use a sharp action to break the taper.
I had to jack the engine up a bit higher than it would normally sit to get the special tool position clear of the inner wing / chassis, but that's fine.
When you get the pump off, clean it well - brake cleaner and stiff brush. The flakey black paint on it is a bit of a PITA to stop bits getting in where they shouldn't. Take your time and commandeer the kitchen table in the warm.
I disconnected the two stainless pipes that traverse the front of the engine on the RHS as one is a quick release and the other an easy clip - the pump end joints are well stuck on.
The teardrop seal in each chamber is easy. The main point of failure is the small stack that's to the side of each piston. It goes green, white (tube) white, green for the o-ring ordering. Had to use pliers to remove tube (about 1cm long). No problem.
The bit that's easy to miss is a very small metal shim that's between the lug on the rotatey thing atop the piston (whatever it's called). I ended up leaving mine as they were, but if you remove it (from the head - it will be stuck in, the new ones don't clip back and will fall off on reassembly unless you use a dab of vaseline. I'd say leave the original in.
That's it really, 200 miles later and not a drop leaking out - touch wood. Any Q's, post back here - it's still all fresh in my mind. Good luck!

Thanks Guys, Got it off and now sat on the kitchen table. Everything went as found on forums really, Just much slower. Didn't know how to do any of it so was constantly double checking. I tried taking it out without removing the starter this proved to be a waste of time as stater came out easy (Once I removed the battery mount tray). Was very much easier to get on that back (third) mounting bolt with an extension without all that gear in the way.

Scariest bit the crack when tightening the engine tool to free the pump from the sprocket big crack and then very loose. Was a relief to see a sprocket there when I finally pulled the pump clear.

Most difficult bit was actually removing the electrical connector and rubber hoses from fuel lines neither wanted to budge. Tapped the press button of the connector with a hammer in the end.... that freed it. Gave up on rubber pipes and ruined them getting pump free however looked pretty old/perished anyway so a new bit of tubing to grab tomorrow.

The bit I forgot to order beforehand "Fuel Pump Gasket", Do I need crank case O Ring? Really?

Tomorrows Job strip down pump and hopefully get it all back together. It really is a mess looks like it has multiple leaks. Will be very happy if all goes to plan tomorrow.
Thanks
Matt

Blimey, sounds like you've got quite a rebuild to do then. I found I could reach the 2 starter motor bolts quite easily with the battey tray still in, but maybe the tools I have were more ideal.
I left the two small rubber pipes on the pump, and also the long stainless pipes still connected via them to the pump. They terminate near the EGR site and are easily removed there.
I just gave the HPFP gasket a wipe down and put it straight back on. It wasn't leaking before and I didn't have to disturb it much. It's been fine.
Tackle each of the 3 cylinders one at a time and try to keep everything really clean. I used a whole kitchen roll trying to ensure no crud got in. The mating face of the head and 'block' will be rusty, so wipe outward.
I found an exploded diagram of the pump and it highlighted the 'commonly failing' o rings and it was right. As a bare minimum, change the 4 rings in the tube stack, and the teardrop o ring (head gasket). I used some clean diesel drops on the O ring stack to make them wet when I put the head back on. It's under pressure from the piston spring so you will need to carefully and firmly push the head right down making sure the piston and top bit are correctly lined up, then pop in a couple of 'head bolts' diagonally opposite, to hold it down. I clamped the pump in the vice to torque it down.
BTW, take the heads off slowly, they are under a bit of tension and will pling off if you're not careful.
GL!

Thank you for the heads up about the heads being spring loaded I hadn't realised this.
Just thinking about refitting, I can unscrew/remove the bolt that freed the pump, right? My thinking is, it is the inner collar that actually retains the sprocket?.

Thanks again
Matt

There are 3 parts to the special tool, the outer is just a locator, the middle is the bit that holds the sproket in place, and the inner bolt which is for freeing the taper. So yes, the inner can/must be removed once the pump is off - you wouldn't get the pump back on properly with it still there.

Good info got this to do soon got all the bits now just waiting to take the plunge.. What is the torq setting for the head bolts
Cheers

I believe it's 25ft/lb, but as I didn't have a torque wrench mine got my best guess, which was tight for a 3/8" ratchet, but much less than I would get with my 1/2" ratchet

Many thanks big twig