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I have a late model drivers door for sale. It is the electric window model and comes complete, including door card and all interior fittings, both hinges, mirror arm a brand new in the bag door seal and a complete stainless steel fitting kit. Window motor working perfectly up and down so can be...

Lowlifes came and stole my Defender last Wednesday night Thursday morning. Pro job I would say as both and my neighbour have dogs and they never reacted at all. Blanket thrown over the security lights on the drive. Reg No is R627 PST and it is Conniston Green with a white roof. Last of the...

Thanks Gents I found the spring seat on the Paddock site as Pressbrake suggested and Marmaduke, amazing welding on your repair! David

does anyone know if it is possible to buy a new upper mounting bracket for the rear Spring and is it feasible to cut the old one off and graft a new one on? Vehicle is a 98 110 and it is o/s if that makes any difference?

Thanks Gemsdad. If I go the chassis swop route I will pm James to see if it is possible. Right now I just want to get an MOT and back on the road . I know I will be without a car for a few weeks if I swop the chassis and I need some time to plan that

I am reducing my collection so thought I would start withe the VfR as I hardly used it the past year. It is a non standard but interesting for it I think and would make a great commuter for someone. It is a 1994 FR model with 37,528 miles MOT until 05/06/2016. Spec is: 1994 Fireblade front end...

That's lovely PF, both the build and your workshop! Having seen your project and Phillips (Cube1729) when I went to pick up a chunk of his old chassis I kinda feel that just grafting a new /old crossmember is not quite cutting the mustard but needs must

Mine spent 12 years in West Glamorgan and everything has been full of sand so who knows what it was up to. then one year in Kent and the last 3.5 with me. That's the problem with buying any old vehicle I guess

Thanks for the insight Noggin. I have been researching chassis swops as I think I have realised I will have to do this in the long term so I will be taking your advice. Cube on this forum has offered me the one from his old chassis and I think I will graft that on for now. That should get me my...

The rest of the chassis is good. It has had a few patches on the main chassis rails when I first bought it and had a new rear crossmember fitted by the PO. The front to the middle has always been well preserved by the oily bits and the rest was wax oiled but too late for this particular...

Cube Thanks mate I really appreciate the offer. Looking at both chassis on the Marsland website they seem near identical so I would like to take you up on your offer. Can you pm me me your contact details and I will email or call Thanks David

well I failed the MOT today as a small hole was found on the n/s chassis crossmember that fits in front of the fuel tank and the upper link arms (A frame) attach too. That small hole is now a big one as I have been tapping away at it to try and find good metal. YRM don't do a repair piece for...

I now realise this means the release arm has gone but my question was "is there a work around that would let me drive it to a garage or am I looking at recovery"? Working on it at home isn't an option as the driveway is too crowded and I have 2 motorcycle projects underway in the garage that I...

I knew I shouldn't have ignored my clutch problem. Started it this afternoon push the clutch down to select first and 'clonk'. I could pull the pedal back up by hooking my foot under it but now it is locked solid.

Thanks gents I will order a new slave

My master cylinder is losing a small amount of fluid each week needing a small top up. Been like this a couple of months but clutch works fine, though twice now I have had to hook my foot under and help lift it back up. Can't find any wet under the m/c or pipe work and the slave too is bone...

There isn't a separate radio transponder attached to the main key ring is there for an aftermarket immobiliser and needs to be close to the new key? or does it still have the factory immobiliser in operation?

Sent you a pm about 2nd row doors:)

A big thanks to all on here who offered ideas. I soaked the joints with Duck oil, attached 3 wheel nuts hand tight then half a turn out. I then went forward and back on the drive until the nuts seemed tight. I slackend the nuts half a turn and repeated the process a further 5 times and could now...

Thanks for ideas gents. I don't unfortunately have access to a farm jack but I have plenty of Duck oil and I will soak the joint tomorrow then try to roll it