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No, not at all. Im sure the power to the thing is fine, the starter just isn't throwing.

OK, so I think my starter motor is starting to play up. For a little while now it occasionally fails to restart. I.e. I turn the key and everything happens as per normal except the solenoid doesn’t seem to kick out. The batteries and earths are fine (recently split charged it with brand...

No, definitely through the side. There is a hole at the back but not used for anything. I haven't bothered blanking it off.

Mine has two earth cables from the battery. Both go through out through a hole in the side of the battery box, one to the gearbox, which looks like a brass bolt to me. The other is to the chassis, which is a longish bolt right through the chassis rail.

What colours are the wires?

Details man, details :) Where are they available from and how much?

Sounds like a good plan. One day I'll get round to making one myself for mine. You say design - attached. But no pics??

No I'm sorted, thanks though.

No 6 quid for the grey housing and two contacts. I couldn't find the contacts separately.

The Anderson 175 amp are definitely compatible with the durite 175amp ones. I put an Anderson one on my landy, but couldn't find the two contacts for it, so got a couple of durite ones from farnel for about 6quid each. They are identical except for the name on them.

It is a defender you're talking about I presume? I think the electric fan I've just put in mine is a single 14 inch. It fits well for the radiator size. I think if it were much bigger making the brakets up would be more difficult. Tbh I don't think your idea to have two fans wired at different...

If they are solid brown wires (I.e. no trace colour) they should be unfuse live. Saying unfused is a bit misleading because they are actually fused, only with very big fuses in the engine bay fuse box. Typically, the main battery wires will be thick red to the starter, then another from there...

You could try changing your fuel filter or using a bit of diesel magic or other similar injector cleaner. Check your glow plugs also. Firstly that you're getting power to them when you key on, and secondly whip the feeding wire off each one in turn and do a resistance measurement on the glow...

Ok, that's easy then. The switches must be sufficiently rated to handle the current drawn from the heating elements. Let us know what's in the kit when it arrives. It sounds like most of it can be done with a few additions in the fuse board area. The hardest part will be deciding where to put...

So the kit came with two relays? And two switches? Does it give any ratings of the heating elements? If not, measure the resistance across them with your volt meter on the ohms setting.

I'd say do what ricc says. It's just two Spdt switches and two wire from front switch to rear switch. It does exactly what you want.

Is there not any wiring instructions? I'd be surprised if the heating elements aren't supplied via a relay. You just wouldn't want the extra current of a heating element directly through the ignition switch. You'd have to check with the manufacturer of your heating elements, but heating...

Take some pics. Give us an idea how bad it is.

Which fuses did you pull btw? If I can get an hour of daylight to spare sometime this week ill have a look on mine to see where they go.

Firstly, what year fender have you got? I'm pretty sure the wiring diagram would tell me (1994 300TDi) that I've got a couple of spare fuses that would normally be aircon, but I'd want to trace them out to make sure they don't go anywhere before answering authoritively on that question...