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You should also say what the sensors were that you've had replaced in case it helps someone eliminate some possibilities (assuming the sensors were quality parts of course).

If you even remotely suspect a problem with a loose caliper then don't drive it again till you've got the wheel off & fully checked it out/tightened it all back up again.

Island sell Britpart crap so beware & ask who makes the parts you want before you buy.

Driveshafts/cv joints aren't usually the first thing to crop up in the Freelander problems list so it might be worth trying to source a complete secondhand driveshaft from a low mileage breaker.

There's also the older L-series diesel aka di or even xdi. 1.8 petrol also can suffer liner slippage which is fairly terminal.

Won't be a bonus if they're cheap crap, you'll be doing them again in 6 months to a year as I found out with another car I have. With my Freelander I paid more & went for Lockheed Delphi ones & touch wood they've been very good for two years now. You're right Maddie, they do need an allen...

If you go for an X-plate Td4 then you're around the £215 mark. Y-plate to 55 plate comes in at the £245 mark. It's the 06-plate on Freelander 1 Td4 autos that come in around the eye watering £435. My figures might be around a tenner or so out as I know tax went up in April but they're close...

Yes, they're a huge problem. The Freelander is a big old lump for that 1.8 to lug around so the design flawed engine works harder & that's when you start to get problems. VCU = Viscous Coupling Unit IRD = Intermediate Reduction Drive You need to read up on how the Freelander 4 wheel...

You've got nothing but time to lose by trying. It might just get you through the mot & last long enough till you can buy another or try your local scrappy.

Just run a quick check on your vcu for piece of mind. Put your car in reverse & go back with the steering on full lock. It should feel like the handbrake is half on/dragging a little but shouldn't stall on you. If you need lots of revs to get it moving then your vcu is on its way out.

Exactly as Opti says, & also run a high dosage of injector cleaner through as well. Make sure your variable vane mechanism on the turbo is free (& vacuum solenoid is working) & check your MAF using the unplugging test if the other things don't work.

Agree with Opti, Td4 is within your budget & is good (especially auto) Petrol is best avoided due to head gasket failure (design flaws) Early L-series diesel is good, simple unit but slower than Td4 with a cambelt to change & the earlier higher stressed IRD. Td4 is more complicated...

You've lost the synchronisation when you've connected the motor to the linkage. You'll need to flick the wipers till they go to park, then unbolt the motor from the linkage without moving the motor spindle & find the rest position of the linkage then reconnect. It might take you a couple of goes...

You need to check your fuel consumption properly by brimming the tank, driving for a set amount of miles (100-200 preferably) & then brimming the tank again. Remapping will not help you if you have a fault which you'll definitely have if you're only getting 15mpg in fact it'll probably run...

Not too sure about that. Usually due to water leaks

once you've done the melting with the soldering iron use some of the backing gauze like Opti suggests - you can buy aluminium gauze - along with plenty of araldite but it has to be the 24 hour drying stuff (not the 1 hour drying as it's not strong enough). This will make a nice strong repair &...

There are kits you can buy to extract injectors but they aren't cheap. Just try ebay & search for injector puller. (A search for BMW injector puller will give you a shock.)

Not tried steels myself but all info seems to suggest that they fit all years of the Freelander 1.

Rear door seal (or seals if it's 3 door ) is usually the culprit. Try pulling them off & spraying with aerosol silicon oil & reseating the seal. Mine is a 3 door & as there were three seals which would cost over £300 to replace I removed the rear carpet, drilled drain holes in the cubby well...

You'd probably be better off trying to source a good used 1.8 petrol engine. You can get them for between £200-£500 with the cheaper ones being higher mileage unwarranted & the dearer ones being lower mileage, with some warranty and possibly even had its head gasket done. Can your head gasket...