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Thank you all. Armed with this I'm orf to tackle it today, while the sun's shining. Cheers A.

I have a '99 1.8FL. Every once in a while I'll come back to it only to find the rear window has wound itself right down. Now I know if you disconnect then reconnect the battery it does this but this can happen if its been parked outside the house overnight, so no mechanicking going on. It's...

SpannerMonkey: Did you have much trouble getting the old bearings off and the new ones on? Presumably the LR manual says to use a press but in the absence of one will a hammer and suitable drift work?

Thanks. It's a bit of a Bitsa. S2a chassis etc but S3 engine, hence why it has an alternator. There are three wires going into the alternator - a thick one in the middle and two thinner ones either side. I think I may have these two swapped around.

Can anyone help me a mo'? I had to renew some of the wiring to the alternator on my geriatric Series IIa/III, including up to the alternator plug. Can someone just confirm the colour coding of the wires as they go into the plug? I have a horrible feeling I might have mixed two or them up.

Thanks. I'll have to order an E10 then. Cheers A.

I've looked in the common faults section but can't find anything there. What size socket do I need for disconnecting the propshafts on a '99 petrol Freelander? They're the same type as the cylinder head bolts (E12) but are they the same size? Cheers A.

I could use the propshaft sockets. Need to get this off soon to renew the VCU bearings.

I couldn't think of much else they could muck up, to be honest, short of putting a different flywheel in it with diddy little teeth on it. Think I'll give it a try and see. Cheers Gary

Nope. Directly dependant upon the road speed. Perhaps more pronounced under engine braking though.

Might be the viscous coupling support bearings. When the rubber mountings on these go bad the VC wobbles around like a mad thing.

I think the 5-wire is for the driver's door, whereas the 2-wire is for the others. Presumably the extra wires tell the other doors to lock when the driver's door locks.

I can only speak for the Maplins replacements being compatible with my old Discovery as I haven't had call to try it on the Freelander yet. Came with a whole load of different brackets and stuff so I'd be surprised if they don't fit.

Funny you should say that. I was thinking exactly the same thing.

The starter on my K-series Freelander is getting tired so I've been looking for a replacement. The LR part number is NAD101420. Someone has offered me a starter from a Rover 75 that uses the same engine, but the part number is 101410. Anyone know whether they're compatible?

It was the same with the Energy Saving Trust grants, where you could only get a grant towards converting a car to LPG if it was under a year old *and* on the governments list of 'nice' cars. If you could afford a brand new car then you could probably afford to pay for the conversion yourself...

Likewise my '69 S2a/3. Bizarre really, when you think about how inefficient they are. Even dafter though is that I pay less road tax on my '99 1.8K F/L than my wife pays on her '03 1.6 Zafira.

My money is on it being the timing. There wasn't really any reason for the switch to have triggered and the only other fault I found was the disconnected temperature sensor plug.

Gentlemen, thank you all for your invaluable advice. Yesterday I adjusted the cambelt by one tooth position and checked it was now timed correctly. This morning I checked the loom connectors are all tight, reset the cut-out switch (just in case), and reconnected the battery. Result...

Good thinking. I haven't (knowingly) done anything to trigger it but... I just went out and had a poke around with a torch and found a wiring connector still loose. It's the one that plugs in under the water pipe at the front of the engine - guessing its a temperature sensor - but haven't had...