Search results

Old pikey solution .. let some air out of front right tyre.

Hmmm. Sounds familiar... I bought a sync mate and it sorted my problem out.

I've been thinking about these to, maybe some sanding and satin finish black paint. Are they steel or alu?

must be a loose connection on the microswitch, when the window moves it also is nudging the wire/connection allowing the signal to say the door is closed.

Try and remove the exhaust on the valve block.. also I suspect the nrv in the valve block.

some good pics here P38 Range Rover Central locking Door Lock Actuator-P38 Range Rover Electrical Common faults and Fixes

So basically I have to order the new latch...ah feck. I also have arthritic door handles, can these be fixed or lubed? I did read that you can buy some small plastic part that can fix the stiffness and sticky out problem, anyone tried this? I only mentioned the drivers lock because i have read...

Yes, I have searched the forum.... Basically the passenger door lock wont pop up with the fob...sometimes... Threads have been started but not results posted... You can operate it manually and it will lock and unlock. (not sure if it will unlock/lock other doors- Private locking) Question is...

Good idea, I just sent them an email.

i think i would have just lowered the car on to the floor with just the disc on, usually this loosens the disc quick!

Actually what I did to close up the access hatch was to use a 2 part epoxy metal glue. I simply managed to hold the hatch lid flush and applied the resin, it sets in 10 mins. I think it's called cold weld for steel. If I need to remove then I can remove with a chisel, but I won't have any...

accessory socket in the boot? hmmm i like the sound of that. Is there an easy way to hook one up? I have privacy glass will this inhibit the charge level? ( for location on the parcel shelf? ) Is it possible to hard wire it so i can leave it on the dash? not that great with electrics, sorry...

Thinking about getting one of these, has anyone used or own one?

does the door amp ever blow? or could it be a ripped speaker causing the buzzing noise?

This is what I manged to do a while ago when I needed to replace my In-tank fuel pump on my P38 Diesel. I have attached pictures ( phone camera ) which show the EXACT dimensions which you can follow if you need to replace your pump without dropping the fuel tank. I did make many measurements...

have you changed the alarm sensor in the car before?( just above the front passenger sealtbelt) what has changing the door locks got to do with the alarm issue? How old is the battery? as far as i know the central locking is controlled by becm, maybe a scan on the computer might tell you more.

I thought that the indicators had a seperate magnetic relay?

mine pops up now and again seems to clear itself...what could be causing this...btw the hevac works greeat.

Sorted. Thanks for all the help and advice on this forum. BBSGuy, what can I say.... magical device. I reckon there defo is a link between the front central locking and a out of sync BECM, Passenger door would not work on CL, after resync, all working again.... Fecking Hevac Chequebook symbol...