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Those inner wings look pretty rusty. I'm guessing it's spent time on salt laden roads. You might want to remove the arch liners to check the sills, as those are known rust traps, even on cars without any rust on the inner wings.

After reading the OP's word salad, I feel the same as above. It's all already hear, but the irrelevant nonsense does need removing.

It won't be in any way a utility vehicle. It'll be another Evoque type LR, where form takes priority over function. I'm not anti modern vehicle at all, as you know our family car is an EV, but the Ioniq 5 isn't pretending to be something it's not.

I'd agree. It's not even going to be built by JLR, or even in the UK.

Here's an artist impression of what it's supposed to look like. It doesn't look like it has the practicality of the original Freelander to me.

I've read a report from Autocar this week, about an upcoming release of a new JLR vehicle which will be wearing the Freelander badge. It looks like it's going to be manufactured in partnership with Chinese car maker Chery. Apparently, Chery is developing the Freelander electrified range using...

It shouldn't have a hole in the casting, I'm not actually sure why it does, except maybe it was drilled so the flywheel could be locked to undo the crank pulley bolt. I don't think the hole will cause an issue, but putting loads of torque through the crankshaft isn't a good plan, as they're...

The TPS won't effect the park issue, and isn' likely to cause a misfire. When were the plugs last changed? The rear plugs often get ignored, as access to them is tight.

You do know someone. ;)

Blocks of wood are far more stable than axle stands, which is why I use them for supporting a lifted car.

First thing is to change the crank sensor. It's cheap and easy to do, and is a known failure point, often giving misfires before failing completely. Only buy OE replacements though.

My guess is the PTU on the way out. The way to check is to extract some oil from the unit too see how it looks. If it's silvery in colour, a new PTU will be required.

Metallic particles in the fluid are most likely from the pump, rather than the rack. The rack is just a double acting hydraulic piston, with a mechanical gear on the piston. Yes the gear can wear, but it's only a slow movement, so wear is minimal. The pump on the other hand is spinning very...

If you pull away fast and there's no slipping of the front tyres, then the AWD is working. The moment you pull away, the TR module applies rear wheel drive, to make sure there's plenty of traction available. You can test this my pulling the Haldex fuse and trying again, as it will spin the front...

That suggests they didn't do the job right.

It has been known for a failed AUX belt to become tangled on the crank pulley, whip about and damage the crank sensor wiring, pull the fuel lines, and even get through the cam belt cover, causing the timing belt to jump. However the latter issue is rare, but it's very possible the crank sensor...

12.2 Volts is a dead battery. They should hold over 12.6 after 24 hours.

Looks about right to me. It's more important that the O2s switch between high and low regularly, rather than the exact value reached each switching cycle.

For a simple fluid replacement, all you need do is replace the old fluid with the new fluid. The easiest way to do this is to connect the new reservoir to the pump intake, and keep the old reservoir in place to receive the fluid expelled. Keep the old reservoir empty with a large syringe, and...

It doesn't sound like the garage that did the work are particularly good. These vehicles aren't complicated by modern standards, but a mechanic does need to know what they are doing to do any work correctly. To me it sounds like the garage has been lazy, and not removed the gearbox, just swung...