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I might be looking to make a dummy plug I can screw the LR sender into. Just a thought it is the correct sender you are connecting to?

I agree with all of your post except the temp sensor bit, I think you might be on about the fuel injected system.

Sounds like you have done what I was thinking, have you tried earthing and feeding it the opposite to what you have done, gauge working?

Have a look here, I posted some info from the manual. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/i-need-help-nearly-bought-05-plate-55944.html

Ignition on. There should be bat voltage to the coil + and the --, when it switches the – will go dead collapsing the fields in the coil and causing a spark through the secondary (HT) I hope this makes sense.

Nothing on the left one :rolleyes:

Ok start at the simple things first, Spark, fuel, as said a blue spark is what you want. if I remember correctly the choke is on one carb only, check the linkage, OK, remove the u pipe to the air filter, get someone to crank the engine and (be brave) hold your hand over the carb inlet, This...

Disconnecting the sender wire and shorting it to earth should send the gauge up to full. If this works it looks like your gauge is ok. This is a common test for gauges I would have thought they would test this quite easily. You might want to resubmit this in the RR section.

Does anyone know what the left hand spindle is for on the clocks, the right one is odo and trip. It pushes in but the odo doesn’t change. TD4 04 & 06 Man and Auto. Cheers, :cool:

I think it was Tesco that said every little helps, you can also get your shredded wheat there. I thought this thread was about FWH not overheating.

The engine performance and power isn’t in dispute, its about MPG due to less drag.

It doesn’t sound like a big end, it would happen all the time when hot. There’s possibility of the oil warning light coming on also (hot) If you find it is you can change the bearings quite easily, this is usually a quick fix due to wear on the crankshaft.

When in 2wd the rear axle is the driving force, the front axle just idles, wheels turn and in turn drive all the transmission back to the Gear box. With FWH fitted the link between the Wheel (Hub) is disconnected and just the wheels turn. The front diff and prop shaft don’t. With the...

If you understand the system it might help you find the fault. All sensors should have a small air gap, all should be the same. Nearly touching. If you have excessive wheel bearing movement the toothed wheel will push the sensor back causing a larger gap. The ABS ECU measures an A/C voltage...

It could be a hydraulic tappet, you will have to find where on the engine the noise is coming from. You can use a long screwdriver as a stethoscope and listen to various parts of the engine ( be careful is can be very noisy, also keep clear of the HT leads ) if you think it’s the tappets you...

FWH reduce the friction / drag of turning the front drive train, less to turn less power needed better MPG. Give them a go, Keep the bits you take off in case you don’t like it. Some modern 4x4 have automatic ones fitted as standard.

I might be wrong but I cant remember using a 9v coil with a ballast resistor on a Landrover. Its been a while though.:eek:

No It should only take a parallel live, so if the switch is on and no lamp on the dash (dash bulb ok ECT) it seems to have no feed.

What kind of fuse does it have? Glass one? If so check with a lamp both sides of the fuse holder. Sometimes the clips don’t make good contact. It sounds like you have no live to the switch.

Have a lookat this link, some of the info is relevent regarding jumping out of gear. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/series-iia-gear-box-series-iii-compatibility-55657.html