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+1 on a rebuild kit. You only need a flat blade screwdriver and some spanners.

If your after a direct swap later on I recommend a Lucas A127, works a charm in my series. Otherwise can you swap the pulley off your old alternator?

Great write up thanks!

Yeah I have already cracked the chassis and it has a ton of patches on it so I ain't too worried about repairing it but it is interesting what you say about the mill chassis. I might have to look into strengthening the cross member if it don't look upto it

Thanks I just snapped my old 8t strap so am in the market for a new one.... Have you ever had experience with kenetic straps they seem to be easier on the chassis lol

ha well that has decided it then!

Ah thats a good point, i've got an old drop plate made of 8mm steel that'll be perfect for a spreader plate. And is a 3.5t pin hitch really enough? I've read 3x the weight is ideal so 4.5t

Hmm good point but I have had to snatch out a few times so might be after something a bit more stout. I'll have to look into modify the cross member for NATO or maybe a defender point. Thanks for the pointer thought

This style? With a spreader plate that could work but most seem to be rated at 3.5t which seems a bit low for a recovery point. Also didn't know civ cross members didn't accept NATO hitches...

I'm after better recovery point on the rear of my 1979 series 3. I fear that the 50mm towball isn't upto the job after snapping a recovery rope. On the front I have the military style lifting eyes which I assume are sturdy enough along with a winch. Should I go for a NATO hitch (will it fit) or...

Yeah so 10 1/4 (10.125?) Is way out then. So it's probably just run out of adjustment. Ha I wonder if they are theoriginal drums

So new drums and shoes then thanks for the advise

Yeah I replac Hmm ok. The cams seem to be working and moving the shoes in and out but the bottom of the shoes don't make contact with the drum? The drum is also measuring oversized at over 10 1/4" inches could that be it or is there an adjustment I'm missing? Thanks

I'll have a look thanks

Hmm thanks heyt do come to a hard stop anticlockwise but just run all the way around until they fall back to minimum. I replaced the adjusters on the front and they worked for a bit but after a month I adjusted them an extra click and they ran out of adjustment.

Im hoping for some help with fixing brake pedal slack. I have tried the drum adjusters but they just turn freely so before I go about replacing the drums could it be anything else? (I have done the pads front and back etc) Thanks

Thanks for the reply, The reason I was looking at the 10.50s is they will fit on a far narrower rim (8j or some people even fit them on 7j) that would let me space them out far further than on a 10j rim but it sounds like that still might not give me enough clearance. I'm going to the local tyre...

Thanks for the great replys! I'll get measuring up see what I'll end up doing and get looking for a 109 rear

Thanks for the detail, I kinda want to keep the engine period hence the Perkins. If the 2.25 can't handle it I might have to look into the 200/300tdi (without the turbo?). Also I assume pegging the diff would do.but I'll research how I can keep the ratios e.g Ashcroft 4.75 gears. I use it alot...

I don't disagree that 7.50s are good tbf. They just don't seem to give enough clearance under the axles especially when at pay and plays where there are some crazy ruts