Recovery points

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Derby
I'm after better recovery point on the rear of my 1979 series 3. I fear that the 50mm towball isn't upto the job after snapping a recovery rope. On the front I have the military style lifting eyes which I assume are sturdy enough along with a winch. Should I go for a NATO hitch (will it fit) or is there a better option out there? (Maybe 2 points to spread the load?)
 
I'm after better recovery point on the rear of my 1979 series 3. I fear that the 50mm towball isn't upto the job after snapping a recovery rope. On the front I have the military style lifting eyes which I assume are sturdy enough along with a winch. Should I go for a NATO hitch (will it fit) or is there a better option out there? (Maybe 2 points to spread the load?)
If you have a civilian rear cross member I do not think a nato hitch is a direct fit so would possible need some work to get it to fit. I think I looked at it when I first got the series and didn't bother for this reason. I do not off road the series as hard as my 110 so I just replaced the ball hitch with a combined ball and pin hitch to use the pin as the rear recovery point.
 
71Il5TXutLL._SL1500_.jpg

This style? With a spreader plate that could work but most seem to be rated at 3.5t which seems a bit low for a recovery point. Also didn't know civ cross members didn't accept NATO hitches...
 
That is what I have with the standard series drop plate. It depends what sort of recovery you are planning on doing. It will not be up to a snatch recovery where you are up to the windscreen in mud but will be fine for a quick pull backwards if you have lost traction. As I said before I do not heavily off road the series so it is never in a situation where it is "properly" stuck. Also bear in mind 8000lbs, which is what plenty of recovery winches are rated at, is 3.6t.

Mine is mounted the same as below (google pic) with a ball and pin hitch.

P1310942.jpg
 
That is what I have with the standard series drop plate. It depends what sort of recovery you are planning on doing. It will not be up to a snatch recovery where you are up to the windscreen in mud but will be fine for a quick pull backwards if you have lost traction. As I said before I do not heavily off road the series so it is never in a situation where it is "properly" stuck. Also bear in mind 8000lbs, which is what plenty of recovery winches are rated at, is 3.6t.
Hmm good point but I have had to snatch out a few times so might be after something a bit more stout. I'll have to look into modify the cross member for NATO or maybe a defender point. Thanks for the pointer thought
 
I have one of the pin and ball type as recommended by the landrover owners clubs for recovery when trialling but fitted without drop plate ie direct to chassis and must have 6mm thick spreader plate fitted inside of cross member to stop bolts pulling through.
 
Hmm good point but I have had to snatch out a few times so might be after something a bit more stout. I'll have to look into modify the cross member for NATO or maybe a defender point. Thanks for the pointer thought

You could buy a universal drop plate and cut / grind the sides down and fit it on the inside of the X member but you may need longer bolts though, stops the nuts and washers pulling through the X member did this on my last 2a for off road recoveries worked a treat :)
 
Ah thats a good point, i've got an old drop plate made of 8mm steel that'll be perfect for a spreader plate. And is a 3.5t pin hitch really enough? I've read 3x the weight is ideal so 4.5t
 
Thanks I just snapped my old 8t strap so am in the market for a new one.... Have you ever had experience with kenetic straps they seem to be easier on the chassis lol
I was advised not to use them as some clubs ban them. When they snap, apparently, the stored energy can be quite unpredictable.
So to answer your question, no I don't :)
 
I have a NATO hitch on the mil chassis - the holes are pre-made in the crossmember and have anti-crush tubes in, then there are doubler plates, 1/4" on the inside face and 1/8" on the outside to spread the load. The rear cross member is very thick on the mil chassis - close on double the civvy one and mine has welded on angle braces from the drop plate to the rear spring hangers. I use it for towing rather than recovery and I would be very wary of putting several tons of tension a 50 year old chassis. Fine if its a later replacement but mine is on its 1970 chassis.
 
I have a NATO hitch on the mil chassis - the holes are pre-made in the crossmember and have anti-crush tubes in, then there are doubler plates, 1/4" on the inside face and 1/8" on the outside to spread the load. The rear cross member is very thick on the mil chassis - close on double the civvy one and mine has welded on angle braces from the drop plate to the rear spring hangers. I use it for towing rather than recovery and I would be very wary of putting several tons of tension a 50 year old chassis. Fine if its a later replacement but mine is on its 1970 chassis.
Yeah I have already cracked the chassis and it has a ton of patches on it so I ain't too worried about repairing it but it is interesting what you say about the mill chassis. I might have to look into strengthening the cross member if it don't look upto it
 
I'm after better recovery point on the rear of my 1979 series 3. I fear that the 50mm towball isn't upto the job after snapping a recovery rope. On the front I have the military style lifting eyes which I assume are sturdy enough along with a winch. Should I go for a NATO hitch (will it fit) or is there a better option out there? (Maybe 2 points to spread the load?)
There are lots of options.

  • Firstly check the condition of your chassis/rear cross member. In good condition it is a strong part of the vehicle, but heavily corroded and you will want to be gentle on it until repaired.

  • Secondly, make sure you use high tensile nuts and bolts for attaching the recovery points. 8.8 as a minimum or the 3 dashes if it is an old school imperial bolt. Also make sure, such as at the front, that the bumper is also attached with suitable nuts and bolts.

  • Thirdly, ensure you use suitable spreader plates (I think you are, but always worth mentioning).

  • I would also recommend not using straps or chains for recovery. Neither are permitted in off road competition. My recommendation would be a quality rated kinetic rope. These are much kinder to recovery points. Get an extra long rope, you'll find it handy and you can always double it up to make it shorter.

  • In terms of hitches, there is a lot of choice. A tow ball is actually ok, but they can sometimes have sharp edges below the ball and do not enclose the rope. A NATO hitch is very good for recovery, but you will need to drill the upper holes on the crossmember if you want to direct fit it, else run a drop plate (a long drop plate may act like a plough off road however). You will need a spreader plate and you can also fit a front plate (as per the military did) to help prevent deformation of the crossmember. The pin style hitches are also fine, although you may find that fitting a rope about the pin may not always be easy, depending on the style of the hitch.

  • Only use D/bow shackles to attach a rope to the vehicle, never join ropes together like this. If you need to join ropes together, feed one rope through the loop of the other, then it's own loop. Or use a soft shackle.
 
There are lots of options.

  • Firstly check the condition of your chassis/rear cross member. In good condition it is a strong part of the vehicle, but heavily corroded and you will want to be gentle on it until repaired.

  • Secondly, make sure you use high tensile nuts and bolts for attaching the recovery points. 8.8 as a minimum or the 3 dashes if it is an old school imperial bolt. Also make sure, such as at the front, that the bumper is also attached with suitable nuts and bolts.

  • Thirdly, ensure you use suitable spreader plates (I think you are, but always worth mentioning).

  • I would also recommend not using straps or chains for recovery. Neither are permitted in off road competition. My recommendation would be a quality rated kinetic rope. These are much kinder to recovery points. Get an extra long rope, you'll find it handy and you can always double it up to make it shorter.

  • In terms of hitches, there is a lot of choice. A tow ball is actually ok, but they can sometimes have sharp edges below the ball and do not enclose the rope. A NATO hitch is very good for recovery, but you will need to drill the upper holes on the crossmember if you want to direct fit it, else run a drop plate (a long drop plate may act like a plough off road however). You will need a spreader plate and you can also fit a front plate (as per the military did) to help prevent deformation of the crossmember. The pin style hitches are also fine, although you may find that fitting a rope about the pin may not always be easy, depending on the style of the hitch.

  • Only use D/bow shackles to attach a rope to the vehicle, never join ropes together like this. If you need to join ropes together, feed one rope through the loop of the other, then it's own loop. Or use a soft shackle.
Great write up thanks!
 
PLUS one on what all the above say. The 3.5 ton hitch is just its tow rating, the bolts holding it to chassis will go before it does.[ or rip out.] Similar pins pull some very large farm trailers. I also use the Damar strap.
When the West Wales 4x4 Group started 4x4 trials some 33 years ago our standard front recovery point was a ball hitch on the front bumper with plate behind. One day a fellow came with a military kinetic rope to speed up recovery's
With a well bogged landy hooked up he set off at speed in his open top truck, the rope stretched and then bang the ball ripped out of the bumper [ Bolts not up to the job ] It flew over his head by about three feet and then was heard crashing through the tree tops a hundred yards away never to be seen again. Banned .
I
have no problem with kinetic recovery done properly with 100% solid tow points ect, The problem is on ordinary days out you just do not know how good other folks fittings are.












 
With a well bogged landy hooked up he set off at speed in his open top truck, the rope stretched and then bang the ball ripped out of the bumper [ Bolts not up to the job ] It flew over his head by about three feet and then was heard crashing through the tree tops a hundred yards away never to be seen again. Banned .

I'm very relieved by this...I wondered what I was about to be reading, for a moment! Glad a lesson was learnt without any more damage than that.
 
Aye MegaMan, gave us all a fright. I was along side the truck being towed. Had the other end let go I hate to think.:eek: Lesson learned, keeping well clear of any sort of tow is a good thing.
 
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