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Has anyone ever had there fuel system chemically cleaned by the machine they hook up to your landy? I have seen it done on large Marine Engines and also advertised for cars. If someone has had it done can you comment on the results please and who did it, what it was called and the cost...

Also see my post on the orange "bladder valve" in the fuel housing that prevents leak back to the tank. You will not find it on any L.R manuals and it is not a Land Rover part. I bet your pipes have been changed as part of a recall already, most were due to H+S concerns. Take the fuel filter...

Another example of what goes wrong when you mess with a Land Rover by bolting on crap aftermarket parts without any thought or knowledge of diesel plants I am afraid matey. Now your allowing more air without telling the ECU that you have changed the air / fuel ratio. Land Rover spent millions...

Pourus fuel filter housing or a damaged o seal in pipe that sprays under pressure. Ethanol in fuel eats rubber seals on older veichles

If your dealer has also not put the injectors back in the order he took them out that causes snags too as the ECU does not recognise each pot. There are 625 possibilities of getting it wrong (5 x 5 to the power of 4). I bet there was nothing wrong with your old ones and it was your fuel filter...

Your not in the Gulf with thin air and temperatures of 40 deg ++ are you?? He is! Hence his engine will produce less power

Did your dealer fit genuine land rover seals? Was it a genuine Land Rover dealership?? Britpart / aftermarket are crap and do not seal correctly. AVOID ALL AFTERMARKET PARTS......BUY CHEAP BUY TWICE. Also he may of not seated one correctly or cleaned the injector bore faces before assembly and...

Throw it in the desert they are crap. You are messing with the ECU set up but remember your injectors are controlled by the ECU on a Td5 and it may interfere with those. You cannot tune an engine without proper rolling roads etc as how the hell can you set performance levels, also the air in...

Well changing the fuel filter housing has cured my Td5 starting problem. Starts 1st time now with the tank 1/2 full. So guys for the price of £130 and 5 minutes of your time you can save hundreds not having new injector seals or a fuel pump as your garage rips you off as they have no idea...

Totally agree with the above, you want a really good engine repair centre. Dont scrimp on Britpart cheap crap, buy genuine Land Rover, full top end gasket kit (Head gasket, exhauste and inlet manifold, oil seals etc etc). You will have to change the oil / oil filter as your sump will have water...

Sounds to me like a clutch release bearing, mine made a noise when you coasted to a stop....drives you nuts after a while. How many miles has it done and has it had a new clutch. They can also get crap around them especially if you get into a lot of mud etc and the drain is blocked...is it a...

STOP RUNNING IT, ITS NOT THE HEATER THINK LOGICALLY!! Your mate has definitely cooked your head no question dont let anyone tell you otherwise. No it is not the heater thats rubbish. It is not bubbling because its boiling its because gasses from the cylinders are pressurising the water system...

If your so called mate ran your engine with little / no coolant are you sure he aint cooked your cylinder head gasket, if your getting a bit of white smoke / steam or condensate be prepared to spend a few quid. Alloy heads are great as long as they stay cool too hot and they warp....not good...

The orange bit fits onto part VUB503950 which they call non return Vv. Its a black plastic thing on the return. ( it has nothing inside just a black tube of plastic so why they call it a non return is beyond me).The air eliminator fits in the filter housing on the inlet from the pump. My filter...

Well its a week since I changed the fuel filter housing on the Td5. The tank is now well below 3/4 full and I have not experienced any poor starting due to air in the system, the continuous cranking and a noisy fuel pump. All I can conclude is either :- (A) That little orange bladder valve in...

If you turn on the ignition the fuel pump runs for around 30 secs, if you then pump the accelerator 6 times it starts the pump again for 30 seconds or so thus fully purging the fuel system....may help after the old lady stalls

Your trying to fit stainless into steel which is a big no no in Engineering as they are expandable at different rates. Stainless is none lubricating and despite what you think it may not be exactly the same thread it clearly is not and seizes when warm as you create friction as you screw them...

Jhonny b 1990 your exactly what L.R owners should avoid...dealers that think they are engineers that have never worked on a big job ! The difference is that we engineers radically think things through and investigate before we comment, so called experts jump in with both feet and end up making...

WJN500110 is an air eliminator fitted in the fuel supply to the filter from pump in tank, the bladder valve (orange bit) is on the inlet to the filter on the fuel return side. DO NOT SWAP THEM OR IT WILL NEVER EVER START

Guys your all missing the point of what I wrote. The orange bit is a bladder valve. bladder valves are used to control flow and prevent back leakage. They are common in huge marine engines and large propulsion engines. Being a Chief Marine Engineer thats how I know what it is. There are no ball...