Search results

205/85 (I think). The Federals which came with the vehicle don't specify the sidewall height / width ratio.

That's where I am at the moment. I wanted A/T in 255/85 for about a 3.5" lift but will settle for 235/85 because of the better range of tyres. Does it make a noticeable difference to the gearing?

It was only bought 2 months ago and it is on a three month warranty. Perhaps you could say it's their responsibility rather than their fault. I'm rather nervous that I had bought a lemon. So far I've fixed the windscreen wiper motor, replaced bulbs in the dash, changed all the oils (interim...

Wheel bearings changed and a noticeable improvement in drivetrain noise. It seems to coast better too or perhaps that is my imagination. They must have been bloody knackered.

I did some welding to the replacement tank. Flushed it with gallons of water, connected it up to the exhaust of the diesel I had and them tested it with a match at arms length. :behindsofa:

Years ago vainly tried the Plastic Padding option on the leaky tank on my Stage 1. Oddly enough it passed the MOT but got a new tank in the end. The tank sounds like the worst of the fails. Seals and dust covers should be relatively easy.

Does it make the noise when travelling in neutral? Is it revs dependant? It might be something loose that resonates when the Landy vibrates at a certain frequency. I've a horrible clanky, jangly sound at any speed that is being looked at this week. The garage has changed the ujs and rear...

Really interesting thread. I'm tempted to look out for an ex-military Defender. Where did you get yours from?

Fantastic. Thanks for that.

I presume that you have tried an easi-bleed kit? Halfords | Gunson Eezibleed I used to have one (not Halfords) and it made bleeding brakes effortless.

UJs replaced and also rear wheel bearings. I am phoning the garage in the morning to see if that has done the trick. All work is being done under warranty.

I put a 6mm thick adhesive foam strip all around the doors. When the door is closed it sits just inside of the seal on the door frame. I've a leak from either the drivers side vent as the flap does not quite close properly or a slight crack to the roof by the gutter. I shall be addressing...

It isn't a replaceable part from what I have read.

Which cross-member / parts of the chassis is rotten? Front, middle or back If it is the rear cross-member you can buy kits. I'm not so sure with the other cross-members. Apart from that you will need to buy some 3mm plate and a MIG welder. It would probably a good idea to get a new chassis...

I had a clattery sound from mine on Friday night, It is in the garage and a couple of ujs have been changed but the noise is still there apparently. Apart from recently changing the back diff oil seal I did put it into low box while in traffic which is the first time I have done so since I...

That's the one I have put in mine. It felt perceptibly smoother after the change but that could be just my mind playing tricks. The amount of sludge and swarf was quite amazing.

Definitely overpriced.

Looks like the chassis has been patched and it has had a serious leak, hence the rust to inside of bulkhead and floorpan. If you want to learn how to weld and have something to fill your spare time it might be worth a go. I've had that particular tee-shirt.

The UJ just went on the rear prop on my 90. Considering this is my third Landrover I'm surprised I've never had one fail previously. The noise sounded like the diff had died or something. I couldn't imagine driving it any distant and at speed.

I have just put a Safari Equip carrier on. Galvanised and painted came in at £200ish. Easy enough to fit which was just as well because they forgot to send any instructions despite specifically asking for them. Looks well made. I think stainless is a bit OTT as it will last longer than the...