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And rusty bores. Long stroke engine, remember.

Hot and cold makes sense.

Donor car long gone- it was RUSTY! I tried Brake fluid once on a Cambridge with the same problem. Might be worth a go.

I have got an engine that has not run for at least 35 years, and it has stuck. Very tight. OK, I'd best confess right now, it is not a Landrover engine, but a C series BMC out of a '65 Westminster. I have tried the red diesel down the plugholes treatment, tried a big bar on the pulley but no...

When it dries out I'll have a look underneath. Thanks.

Clean fluid and new slave. mileage unknown, other than odo shows 85000. Box has been out at some time judging by creases on the floor/missing fasteners etc. Bites about 2" off the floor, with a similar amount of free play slop. Its going to be an arm, isn't it? Do the pivots wear too?

Anyone had this on an old Defender (95, 300tdi, R380)? The clutch pedal sometimes sticks down. Also the clutch doesn't clear unless the pedal is right on the floor. It doesn't slip. Hydraulics seem fine. I suspect the release arm is bent or worn? Having wrestled with a clutch on our old...

So they do exist! A county SW is the same except for it has stripes and carpet? and nicer seats, I guess. None of which seemed to convince LV when I spoke to them!

Sorry, gone with Hastings direct, but next time I'll bear you in mind.

Anyone else had problems renewing their Landrover insurance? Like for instance, coming up on the search as a Pickup when it is a Station wagon. Were all SWs Counties? Mine is a bit lacking in luxuries. My 110 is on the V5 as a 110 SW TDI. Which makes sense to anyone with a bit of real world...

Bit like sitting in a huge, damp, metal biscuit tin with a blower fan that is as powerful as a mouse's fart and more draughts than a tent on Ben Nevis. The feeling comes back to your fingers at about Easter, I believe.

Finally got to the bottom of this. After checking through the wiring, I looked again at the alternator. This is a non genuine equivalent that fits other applications.. It also has a choice of the old Lucas Three in a Row type of terminals or two insulated posts (as per my Defender original) So...

buy a Volvo!

It was dead flat, so I charged it slowly for 24hrs at under 4A. Could still be low though it started a cold engine ok. Carried out the 3 checks above, all ok. So, a difference between Batt and Alternator voltages seems the culprit. needs a run later to collect the kids, will try it after that...

I have had charging problems with our '95 Defender. The warning light would flicker and charging was poor so fitted a new alternator today. Now it charges at a lovely 14.5V- but the light is permanently on. Is this a known problem? I'm thinking dodgy block connector or some other wiring fault...

My towbar is just a flat plate 33cm x17cm with 2 supports going to the bottom-not the slidey Dixon Bate type unfortunately. Two advertisers on Ebay have the flat plates for a series Landrover but apparently they are different on a Defender? My guess is it has an earlier towbar fitted since it...

Hi again, My 110 was ex airfield and has a weird towing set up on the drop plate for a pin type of coupling. I want to change this and use a normal towball and have seen some drop plates advertised for Series Landrovers. Would a Defender be the same? Can you fit a Nato hitch above a towball...

Thanks. Not a lunch hour job then! Jim.

Please forgive my ignorance, does the air distribution cable join up somewhere under the dash panel? I suspect it goes to the floor vent flaps but cant see how to get in there. Any advice most welcome! Cheers, Jim