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yea same

hmm well a little update (can't run the engine right now as its out of fuel) the yellow knob (high range 4x4 selector) seems to be stuck down (so its in 4x4) when I try and pull the red knob backwards to make it pop up, it goes into neutral and then stops. on other landy's I have seen it...

great, that's what I wanted to hear. because it means my transfer box is probably fine ;) :D

I was cleaning the crud out of the gearstick, and the big ball that it rotates on today, and while I was doing it noticed that the high/low ratio lever only seems to have two positions (high range, and neutral) the engine is not running the gearbox has no oil currently as the rear seal just...

I just did it with a bit of fluid a tip, pump the brake pedal hard once, and then evenly right to the floor twice. much quicker and easier than the way I had been taught to do it (push to the floor, hold. and then do up bleed screw. repeat) really a two person job though.

mine are AVM ones, don't know anything about them

my 1976 landrover series 3 came with freewheeling hubs, any tips for servicing/keeping them in good condition?

yea mine are up for replacement as well. and I noticed the hinges where sided when looking over mine. the funny thing is its quite obvious, but it took me a surprisingly long time to actually realise.

no impact drive... :doh: im not confident that the countersunk screws that hold the door on are going to have a lot of movement.

not really any rust on this one, so I doubt that is the problem, although the door tops seem to be going

my series 3 88" has both doors sagging at the rear ends by approx 4-5mm I have tried lifting the with my hands and there doesn't seem to be much play at all in the hinges, no more than 1mm any idea how to fix this, and what caused it? i thought maybe loosening the hinge screws, lifting...

sorry to (sort of) hijack the thread. but I would love to know what the best size/width of tire to use for my series 3 88" (for road use, as I have an abundance of spare offroad tires and wheels for it) radials are preferable, and im after the best on road handling (sealed roads of course) its...

mine has the best steering I have ever seen on a Land Rover, no play at all and feels tight, but easy to turn as well :)

earmuffs? :D or if you are worried about what people might think then earplugs, just remember to remove them when you get out or people will thing you are going deaf! anyway i just got my "new" landy and im very happy with her, just needs some minor work here there and everywhere

yea thats what I meant by diff head anyway one more question, do you think a series 3 88" with all the steering gear and brakes setup properly is capable of doing about 60mph without being impossible to control? my dads 109 starts getting tricky over 50mph but that is with some old...

yea try switching some pads around, it cant hurt and if it starts pulling in a different direction then at least you know what the problem is

Ok i have found a 1993 Range Rover thats being wrecked, it has 10 spline diffs so basically do I only need the diff heads? also I assume that I wont need to change the driveshaft at all

sorry for the double post, but this is EXACTLY what our series 3 109 did, only pulling right (this was with a new master cylinder that was pressure bled) eventually I used some stuff (solvent type stuff designed for the purpose) to clean the brake shoes, and switched the drums for good...

from what i know if its pulling a lot then its probably the front brakes. as they do around 75% of the work (or so I heard) having mismatched brake shoes can't help maybe try swapping the rear drums over to give yourself peace of mind (and check for oily shoes and scored drums while you are at it

when i said the shoes where greasy it wasn't quite like that, basically there was some dust sort of "stuck" to the pad, on the part that rubs I am a bit of a newbie mechanically so if thsi is a bad idea correct me, but you could try switching the front drums from left to right and see if it...