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Depends on your engine type - 200/300tdi run fine on waste veggie oil (WVO) or bio-diesel, or any combination of the three. The only problems you are likely to get is when it's winter - where you can get gelling of the veggie oil and bio-diesel.

Your looking for this type of stuff cetane booster. Cheaper at the tesco's of the world or your local auto supplier. I use the Wynns stuff though. Oh and you don't need the stuff if your using Bio Diesel as it generally has a higher cetane value than standard diesel!

My local tester always does a double take looking at the emissions as just about everything is lower and there is no sulphur either.

It certainly does boost the power when using pure veggie oil. I use it all the time.

oh and don't forget to add cetane to your fuel, heating oil does not have to go through the same ignition quality checks as diesel and may have a very low rating.

I've heard of people running it :rolleyes: but it can be thicker than standard diesel (especially if its been in a tank a while). So pre-heat if you can in the same way as veggie oil. In theory you will have to pay duty on the fuel you use though so that makes it uneconomical. IMHO use waste...

Went to move the landy 2a with a 2.5 n/a diesel yesterday and topped up with water as usual, only to find the water pouring out of the block and a missing core plug. I assume the winter snow and cold took it's toll on the water (which has at best a summer level of antifreeze) in the engine...

What the most likely cause for a lot of oil coming from my 300tdi disco flywheel housing drain plug? It's just started after a service and there is quite a bit coming out (black oil though not new clean oil).

You can also get white smoke when running veggie oil under high load. I vote for the water/head gasket option though - been there on mine before. Had these symptoms months before any of the more common signs of head gasket failure.

Same here. I've tied off the vacuum hose as best I can with cable ties; the leccy connector is just sat there tucked away. No problems so far.

Is MTF the way to go and anyone got any suggestions of good cheap suppliers?

Well spotted! Thanks fanatic

After a number of miles of fast (50mph+) driving in my 300tdi Disco changing gear becomes quite difficult - it's as though I'm selecting gears through treacle - much stiffer than usual and often clunking into first gear. I'm a noob when it comes to touching the gear box and had a referb one...

Damn right hand indicators are flashing too fast this morning :frusty:. All bulbs good, so it looks like I need to check wiring etc. Stupid irony.

My 300TDI disco has had some serious repairs in the past, but at the moment nothing is wrong with it. Even the sun roofs are refusing to leak. The MoT is due in a few weeks - should I be worried?

I've used the difflock stuff, seems ok to me just a little expensive.

Why can't I find a LWB 1/4 chassis or similar - bah. I'm gonna have to dig around a parts number list to see what the numbers are.

nice - keep adding pic's and I can see what I've got to do!! btw.. where did you get it from?

Plan is (or perhaps was) to get it MoT'd again and start to use it to replace my disco for the odd train station run, load lugging, dragging stuff across the field and to start to do some propa off roading. I doubt it's gonna pass MoT with oles like this in it, so I might patch it the best I...

Just been poking around with a screw driver and found some massive holes held together only by the paint in the rear chassis of my 109 series 2a. Is it worth repairing and getting a rear quarter chassis, just patch it up, or save up for a propa new chassis?