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Mine looked exactly the same. The magnet is there to remove all the metallic chips and dust, so i reckon that someone at the engineering department has foreseen the wear... hopefully James, it's the transmission, not the engine oil :)

Doh, you all just need a driver's lock with a dead motor... the car can NEVER lock itself on me ;) Yes.. there is a dark side to that, i get to use my key blade a lot...

Use a ball-joint tool. Ball joint Removal/replacement:Photos

It's a warped disc for sure, but do check your caliper locating/sliding pins... they can get stuck and warp your disc pretty fast.

Yes, it should be just a bunch of PDF documents...

If the motor is clicking, it's probably stuck. Take it off, open it up, and i bet you'll find chips of magnet inside. Clean out thoroughly and reassemble. You can test operation with a 12v battery directly to the connector, two fat pins are 12v positive and negative. For a direction change, just...

spacepig, that looks to me more like shot halfshaft oil seal and the liquid is front diff oil. Check if it has an oily "feel" to it :)

Worth checking proper operation of brake calliper sliding pins. They can get stuck with rust and the result is usually a warped disk.

Hi, my rangie is in need of some new rubber. I've made my decision and ordered a set of GG AT2 in 235/70/16 (as i have the 7 inch wide rims), but the AT2 is not available any more in that size. I'm now facing next choices: GG AT2 225/75/16 XL, which is close to original diameter, just 1...

The sunroof could also have one of the plastic bits inside the rails broken, or is just dirty enough to fool the trap sensor that something is trapped... connect the motor and try operation yourself, observing the left and right rails/guides for any signs of the fecker getting stuck.

Hey, what about that handbrake test? Mine makes a pretty horrible sound (probably connected with the drivetrain slack anyway) even when applied at 1mph... should I even try it? I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the handbrake on LR's shouldn't be used at all when moving... :confused:

Holy sh*t, were you regularly parked in the sea? :D

no problem :) it is really a 30 minute job if your bumper bolts aren't stuck.

Which could be any 22mm outer diameter long socket, if i understood correctly? :)

The verdict: I'll change the clutch as a kit, but the DMF will have to wait at least for me to get to it and assess it's state. I'm doing work myself, as i understand i do not need any special tools, right? Well, apart from some way of shifting the tranny out of the way, but i'll manage that...

Thanks lads. Wammers, i think my DMF should be fine, but heat will ruin it quite fast i reckon. I do not get any of the lumpy tickover symptoms often referred on the LZ. I get shaking in the drivetrain in 2nd and 3rd when driving really slowly through roundabouts and alike, but suspect that is...

Yesterday i did a thing that i don't usually do to my range... i floored it in 3rd and 4th gear (manual of course) and my clutch slipped when the turbo kicked in at 2,200 RPM. It never did that, not fully loaded in 1st and 2nd, but i admit that i drive it like a granny :mil80: question...

You have to mount another cross bar right behind the bumper, the tow bar is attached to this bar, and then everything is bolted to the bar you see in your picture.

Almost all the time 24 mpg (mix of short (10km) and long (100km) runs). best was 27 mpg (5 people, a dog, full of luggage, B roads through Bosnia). All brim to brim measurements.

gog, some also suggest using copper grease on contact surfaces when reassembling. I've put the stuff on, but luckily didn't have to disassemble the hub yet after that, so i can't comment about the success :)