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I believe it’s a 15p (has an EGR cooler), what’s the difference in the use of the MAF?

2001 & EGR has been deleted.

So after experiencing a lack of low down grunt for a while I disconnected the MAF & power is restored as it was when disconnected. Ordered a new MAF but have been sent the wrong one. Until the correct one is sent is there any harm in leaving it disconnected for the time being? Engine runs...

It’s fine with the pinion nut tightened & the flange back on, just when the nut is off & the flange removed the shaft can be moved around. It’s a D2.

Been replacing the front diff pinion seal this morning & after getting the flange off have noticed that the actual splined shaft wobbles left right up & down. Does this mean the bearing is knackered or is it just because the flange has been removed & not securing the shaft in place? Thanks

Get under the car & pull the breather down from the bulkhead & check for any melting. The T-Box oil should be changed every B service or 24k miles so unless your the first owner I’d imagine it’s been done before. If you’ve had the car a while & this is the first time you’ve checked the level...

How many miles since the last fluid change in the t-box? I’d suggest as before to clean everything up & take it for a drive then get back under it & look at the front of the box, if it’s wet at the front only then it’s more than likely the I-shaft but if it’s a blocked breather it’ll also leak...

So your damper wobbles too!?

So have been experiencing a chirp when turning off the engine & noticed at idle that the crank damper wobbles but the crank pulley itself doesn’t wobble at all. Have checked the 3 bolts which hold the damper to the pulley & there all right. I’m assuming it’s not normal but maybe it is? Engine...

As above clean it well first or you'll never see where it's leaking. Pink fluid could easily be coolant/gearbox fluid which is blown back onto the T-Case so would suggest giving everything a good clean up. If it is the transfer case then check the breather. It runs off the top of the transfer...

When I look on rave it suggests only the track rod is to be adjusted with the draglink only adjusted to re-centre the steering wheel, hence my confusion!?

So I've been trying to set the toe on my D2 this weekend using an optical alignment tool but I just cant seem to get both front wheels to read the same toe I've been adjusting the toe with the track rod but it only seems to make a difference to the drivers side wheel - the passenger side...

I.e. should I be checking these ball joints another way - with the weight of the car on them?

Thanks for the replies, I did read about about another forum member who replaced the ball joints only to find that the up & down movement was still there. Not sure if he just bought faulty ball joints or if this up & down movement is to be expected when checking with the wheels off the ground?

Hi all, just finished servicing my Disco 2 & thought I’d give the front suspension a shake down for any wear & to my surprise the upper & lower ball joints on the steering knuckle (driver & passenger side) have vertical movement when prying with the front end jacked up (no horizontal movement)...