TD5 MAF

So after experiencing a lack of low down grunt for a while I disconnected the MAF & power is restored as it was when disconnected.
Ordered a new MAF but have been sent the wrong one.
Until the correct one is sent is there any harm in leaving it disconnected for the time being? Engine runs smooth, no smoking from exhaust & fuel economy appears unaffected?

No problems if you drive it with MAF unplugged, it's on a default which keeps the engine safe at around 90% of optimal performance, though what year is your D2 and is the EGR still on?

2001 & EGR has been deleted.

2001 was the transition year from Eu2(10P) to Eu3(15P) engines, which one is your's, it's important cos the MAF is used differently by the management on them

I believe it’s a 15p (has an EGR cooler), what’s the difference in the use of the MAF?

On the EU3 the MAF is more important as it's used directly for fuel IQ(injected quantity) calculations beside the EGR management while on 10P is mainly for EGR management not involved directly in the IQ...so if your's a 15P i strongly recommend you to bite the bullet and buy genuine LR sensor cos it's the only 100% reliable, with an aftermarket the engine might run worst than with it unplugged, it's lottery

In the meantime you reckon it will be ok to run though on the default values? Thanks

Yes, no probems, on default the ECU uses the MAP sensor instead for calculations like on Eu2 engines, just a bit higher consumption but certainly better than with some aftermarket MAF which gives erratic readings... eventually clean the MAP sensor with carb cleaner if t wasnt cleaned after the EGR removal, the hole in it's bottom near the probe(pointed) is for pressure that's important to be free of gunk

Thanks for your help. In light of what you say regarding the MAP, is there any major reason to run with the MAF connected? Other than optimum efficiency & MPG?

JLGALL1 said:

...is there any major reason to run with the MAF connected? Other than optimum efficiency & MPG?

Click to expand...

if you dont want optimum efficiency and you are pleased to run an Eu3 engine on default to Eu2 management then no other reason but i'm wondering why would you do that ... on a long run you'll pay the price of a MAF in fuel while driving a less powerfull vehicle(i mean less powerfull than a perfectly running Eu3)

New MAF arrived today, it feels even better than before so the old MAF has been tired for a while

Which manufacturer did you buy ? My TD5 has been running like a pig for some time, so I disconnected the MAF plug, and its made a huge difference in power...

Great for todays floods, until I soaked the air filter... lol

Read post #6 and concentrate on the last word.

"Lottery" Yes I get it....

Now, a lot of people say get a VDO sensor, but some, such as yourself say get a genuine LR part. Im not looking at a cheap aftermarket part, thats for sure, but do I need to pay 50% more, just because it comes in a LR box.

I originally got sent the wrong part (was for a Disco 3) so returned it & bought an OEM thinking it would be a Siemens/OEM - it wasn’t - it’s an SMPE MA(made in the UK) which is classed as OEM. I was going to return this one but that would be another weeks wait so decided to fit it & it works better than disconnected. The SMPE MAF comes with a calibration/test cert so there is some quality control.
I agree with Sierraferry that it’s a complete lottery unless you buy genuine. Just don’t fit anything Chinese from EBay as tempting as the prices are....

tilly2 said:

but do I need to pay 50% more, just because it comes in a LR box.

Click to expand...

YES, if you want something 100% reliable, the explanation is here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/d2-td5-cutting-out-when-warm.326582/#post-4193511

Fair enough mate... Im always sceptical, as one of my clients is a manufacturer, who likes to promote how genuine their spares are... only for me to see the production packing line, where stickers are removed and their own are applied...

Are the LR dealers the best place to get a genuine MAF, or is there a supplier of genuine parts that is cheaper. ??

You have to dig after it cos they appear at better prices from time to time at different suppliers though at main dealers should be the cheapest... strangely they became more and more expensive as the time has passed, to not be the victim of some marketing scam the only correct p/n for the genuine one is MHK100620LR not others, the cheapest i found is this https://www.firstfour.co.uk/mass-air-flow-meter-for-td5-genuine-lr.html ... though if your's is not Eu3 you can go for VDO/Siemens cos on Eu2 is not so important

I have the EU3 15P engine. 53 plate Disco 2 facelift. AAT sensor with 4 wires... Looks like its the LR unit then...

I've now done around 300 miles with the SMPE MAF fitted & no problems at all, also it's the 15p engine.
At around 1/3 the price of the genuine MAF I'm delighted with how well it's working. Time will tell in how long it lasts but I've also heard of genuine MAF's failing after a couple of months so I think the whole thing is a lottery to be honest.