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You can try to calibrate and see if it helps. I bought some 30mm dia nylon round bar rod from ebay and used this guy method: Air Suspension No more weird self-leveling and no more going to offroad height while driving.

If what you want is lower end torque, the psi powerbox is a wrong way to go. You need a good chip, along this thread someone mentioned the VES chip from Ebay. Its the one that i have and its quite impressive. But even if you have a good chip that gives you lower end torque you will still have...

I guess that the price justifies going for the Full Harness repair.

I realy think you should check your other thread, the former owner of that Range Rover posted there.

I found my P38 ride very harsh until i had the suspension properly calibrated.

Where did you get the pressure switch from? Thanks!

Mine has MAF and EGR and my nanocom says -38.8.

I guess that if he has access to the other functions like hevac, eas or gearbox e also has access to becm. Mine sometimes also cant communicate, i need to give a little push in the obd plug.

Next time you have a "beep" because of EAS, if the car is still level remove the EAS timer below the passenger seat. That way the EAS is disabled and (in case you dont have a leak in springs or spring valves) you will be able to ride home without ruining your back.

I have a bigger one and wouldn't go back. But i guess that you will need a remap to better use the cooler air from the bigger intercooler. Like Dave mine sits below the oil cooler.

Hi Dave, About the uprated converter do you really think it picks up drive (less slip) sooner or is it just a placebo effect? Good luck with the box and thanks for being the guinea pig :)

I had the idea that the lockup was was at a given speed, but since the repro and bigger intercooler mine started to lockup at 45mph when it used to be at 50mph and it started to change gears earlier.

Yes, you can force the movement of temp and fuel gauge.

I contacted Ashcroft and Dave responded saying that the heavy duty torque converter only fits the Td5 engine.

The heavy duty torque converter in the Ashcroft site will fit the Td5. Even if the Td5 drive plate is also triangular as in the DSE im not sure if the plate size is the same.

What uprated torque converter is that? I Know that Ashcroft makes one for the Td5 using the torque converter from the 4.0L engine, but never saw one for the DSE engine.

Did you disconnect the MAF and or MAP while replacing the radiator? Did you reconnect them properly?

Nanocom. Not only it covers all systems as you can use it in instrument mode, very usefull to control water temperature. It even has an alarm if the temperature goes above a certain level, can save your engine.

See here: http://web.nanocom.it/download/P38%20BOSCH%20EDC.pdf

Next time something similar happens (i hope i don't) you can always unplug the EAS relay under the passenger seat (in RHD). If no leaks you can drive until you solve the problem.