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I’ve an NZ bias but it will be a long time before petrol and diesel is phased out to the point it’s difficult or expensive to buy it. My guess is diesel will be around longer for trucks and agricultural machinery etc. An alternative view is that as electric cars become more common there will be...

Sorry but I couldn’t follow the above, but my blower didn't work on my 96 (which has aircon) and it was the dash slider switch at fault. I managed to clean it up (contacts were burnt) and it works ok now albeit it has sometimes has to be wiggled a bit to get the blower going.

Thanks frosty, so basically one has to find a (rust free) donor car and get a repair section (I guess that involves screen removal), and also take the screen out of the car to be repaired, and respray the lot afterwards, that’s likely to be expensive but sounds doable if the car is at the right...

The WOF tester can fail a car for rust and then refuse to pass it at a retest unless it is accompanied by paperwork that shows it was fixed by a professional (certified) repairer, which would usually be a panel beater for minor rust issues. If you have a good relationship with the inspector and...

Hi, has anyone got advice on the method of fixing rust as per attached photo? Or is this uneconomic to get professionally fixed? I ask as there has been a couple of disco’s with this sort of rust issue on sale recently, and I was wondering if they worth bidding for, or not. In nz repairs to...

Might not be your problem but I had the same symptoms and found the fuel solenoid wiring had a break somewhere in the loom on my 96 tdi, a bugger to locate it so I just put a new wire to the solenoid from the fuse box, that switched on/off with the ignition. I hid the fob on my tdi so I could...

My bitter experience with this code was that the sensor on the OTHER side had a cracked wire near the sensor causing an intermittent abs light coming on...when I swapped the sensors over left to right the fault did not change sides which really had me fooled. But ultimately replacing the right...

On one (small) point by the OP, it's wrong for YRM to take money from a credit card account before dispatching the goods. It's standard practice to only complete the sale and take the money on the day of despatch, using the card details supplied at time of order placement. I think this would...

Like many I took some time to decide on what tyres to fit to my bog standard D1 when the 2 rears reached the wear limit. I suppose I really wanted BFG ATs but the cheapest I could get then for was 1600 NZD a set of 4 fitted, which seemed too much to me so I opted for the Kumho's at 1000 NZD...

For years the ABS light has been coming on intermittently giving me raised blood pressure at each 6 monthly WOF (same as MOT). Will or won't it pass! I've tried to fix it quite a few times, the errors always being left hand front air gap, or more recently left sensor open circuit. I swapped the...

I have a 96 abs disco 1 and have replaced the swivels and can definitely say the top swivel is a plain bearing not a roller taper bearing, the reason is that the abs sensor would not fit inside a taper bearing. The bottom has a taper.

switch on my 300tdi had all burnt insides after getting very hot for some reason but after a clean up now works ok ish.....so yes you can get at them....easy once you've done it a few times..... :frusty:

There is a load of info on abs on this forum and I suspect it will not be a quick fix. I spent many hours messing about with blink codes replacing wheel bearings and swivel joints checking wiring and connectors etc but still got air gap blink code faults......like yours the abs would kick in...

keep the abs......the fault you have might still be a simple one to fix, the blink codes should tell exactly whats wrong....

on my 96 300tdi non spider i left the ignition on and the gradually dropping voltage made the srs light come on and it did not reset, I just wired a new light to the glow plug circuit, 18 year old air bags prob wont work anyway

at risk of pointing out the obvious....you do know there is a timer aand the 12v only goes to the plugs for around 10 secs before it switches off? on mine i need to wait for 5 secs after the light goes out on the dash before starting it to give the plugs enough time to get hot....

After the amount of messing about with mine thats gone on I reckon your lucky not to have it :mad::mad::mad: I just swapped the front sensors and so far the warning light has stayed off which makes no sense at all :der: but :cheer2:.....which reminds me.....you will need a warning light...

after the car failed on worn swivels I bought and fitted individulal new parts including fittiing a new brit part seal to a near perfect ball and the ferker leaks so bad i eventually gave up on using oil and put the grease in it.......makes one wonder if the brit part seals are...

I thought pressure in the header tank was normal, after all, it has a pressure relief cap fitted to it? If there is no pressure it may mean there is a leak somewhere maybe?

is nulon the manufacturer of oat talking bollox when they say it is not suitale for brass radded cars? :fencing: www.nulon.com.au/pdf/FS101%20-%20Coolant%20-%20The%20Facts/