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I had the same problem last month and was daft enough to assume that it was a broken solenoid. I bought a replacement solenoid without properly testing the existing ones, only to discover that it made no difference. The problem turned out to be the controller button contacts, which is...

Because that's where I'm gonna install the jerry can bay, if I can find a supplier for under £150, which is proving difficult :( Anyone got one for sale, per chance to dream?

GENIUS! Right, I'm gonna give this a go tonight. Reminds me of cutting grooves for log cabin poles.

I'm about to begin constructing two custom storage units that'll sit on top of each wheel arch in the back of my 110. Only problem is, I'm not sure how to create the templates for the contours of the each tub side (starting from the flat of the wheel arch, travelling up to the hard top slit...

When it comes to electrics, I'm an overly cautious fellow.

Nice black chequer plate and bulkhead removal bar. Someone seems to have spent a lot of money on that Landy. Although, there's no stereo, which I find odd.

Shiny and has sun roof. Soon to be dirty and leaky no doubt. Must clean mine this year.

I know about changing the oil and filters as part of general maintenance, but I've never owned a vehicle that required greasing via those lovely protruding nipples before. Plus, there may be other Landy things to routinely check that I'm not yet aware of. So, does anyone know of a decent...

FYI: spliced into the green wire (running from the Landy spot/brake lamp) and connected directly to the red trailer wire. All working now. Avoided using scotch blocks and will replace my temporary dodgy splice with 4 way bullet connector when the order arrives this week. Thanks for all your...

Yes, I've heard this about Scotch Blocks before. Actually, I've just found a dodgy connection, which, surprise surprise, used a Scotch Block. Will start crimping now. Thanks redhand.

NEVER travel below 50 MPH and you'll be fine.

Ok, still scratching my head over this, especially since I discovered that it's just a simple switch on top of the brake box that connects a circuit, and that the brake appears to have been bypassed at some point with a fat brown wire coming from the switch through to both rear stop/brake lamps...

Peace through seclusion and alcohol. All the best.

It's how I relax and am a late worker - fewer interruptions. And why are you awake?

Yeah, that's what I've got, but I can't find where it connects to the red trailer wire.

Actually, I've just removed what I think is the brake switch, tested it with a multimeter, and think it's ok. Also, when pressed it just connects the circuit, so it seems it may be a wiring problem after all. Damn, thought I was onto something there.

I have a theory: the trailer brake light circuit is pretty much independent from the Landy brake lights. Here's why: The red wire from the trailer socket threads up into the rear offside area (behind the cover) then connects to two green wires. These two green wires then go down into the...

Yes. Been facing and tracing through the bundle of wires behind the cover. Offside green wire goes down hole in floor and straight into chassis rail with no split anywhere in between.

Results are in: green wire feeds the brake light. Green on offside, green/purple on nearside. So, there should be a split in the offside green wire before it enters the lamp to feed the red brake wire for the trailer socket. Problem is, I've traced the offside green wire and it just goes...

Thanks. Off into the dark I go :crazy_driver: