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Not sure I can be bothered with that! and I can only imagine at the price of the cable over here!! Plus, the P38's are far too sensitive to electrical wobbles - I'd prefer to leave as much of the electrics alone as possible!! There is no big hurry - battery is fine, just wanted to upgrade it...

Nope! Later P38's (and DII's) don't have a dipstick for the Auto box.

You mean replace the main +ve and -ve cables?

Long story short - I decided to buy a new battery for the P38 as the one that is in there (despite being fine) is the wrong size - far too small - and I was going to bump that one to another vehicle with a dead battery. Bought a huge battery yesterday that is the right size for the P38, came...

Just changed the auto box oil cooler and two pipes, now got to top the auto box up...just want to make sure I have the right 'hole' as it isn't mentioned in the manual. Can someone just confirm I've got the right place - photo below. Also - anyone know what size the hex head is before I waste...

Rear brakes are probably seized calipers - common problem. Easier to just replace the whole lot rather than try messing about trying to fix them. I've just done the rear pads on mine, and despite the rear calipers already having been replaced once, I noticed the slave cylinders on one side...

Correct! That popped out with a couple of bangs with a big hammer! Going to give it a go tomorrow with heat. Too knackered to do anything today - had a very busy few days. Guaranteed rain tomorrow now! Matt

Thanks. I'll give them both a go tomorrow, too hot and tired now! She's bleeding AFT at the moment as I've taken the gearbox oil cooler off to change it, and stripped the threads on the pipes (widely predicted, but I hoped I could get away without that happening!) so got to wait to get new...

..any hints or tips?! Just changing the small end that is screwed onto the track rod - not the whole thing (which probably would be easier actually!). Top bolt removed, but getting the screwed end out of the rod is proving pretty impossible as it's nicely rusted etc. in. Any hints for...

Very good for AT's.

Had AT2's on both my P38's. Wouldn't buy anything else unless you're only doing on-road stuff. Matt

My DSE does exactly the same thing.

I'd say you've already got your answer!

Have to say I've never tested the P38 properly so don't know about the computer - got to fill up today, so I'll check it properly this round! However - not all computers are useless.. my BMW used to be within 1mpg and my Alfa used to be consistently accurate to within 0.2mpg! (something which...

Just a thought - wondering if an a/c compressor from a BMW 525TDS would fit?

Had a play this morning. Confirmed +12v on the lead to the clutch when the A/C is turned on, so not an electrical problem unfortunately. I'll try to find a second hand compressor (new prices seem to vary between £320 and £850 - ouch!). Might justify £320 if I was going to keep the P38, but...

Seems to vary quite a lot between vehicles. I had a manual and could hardly get above 25, even taking it easy. Now I've got an auto and can easily get 32/33 out of it. High 20's to low 30's should normally be possible from most unless you've got a heavy foot. Start driving it hard and it...

P.S. Datatek, whereabouts are you? I'm sure I've seen your P38 in the new Auchan car park a couple of times - once nearly walked up and tried to open it until I saw the wheels - I've almost exactly the same vehicle (and with new style French reg too!) Matt

Can someone please tell me (in plain English! not with BY's and WLG's!) where I can hook up +12v directly to the compressor please to force the clutch to engage?! (it's a P38 as per the thread btw!) I've just changed the condenser, but although the system is now apparently holding gas, still...

Really?! My V8 used to get 15 around town if I was very lucky! Usually closer to about 12, but that was London traffic. Don't know about the Tdi as I don't do town driving now, but my V8 certainly never did 30! which is about what I'm getting from the Tdi on average. Matt