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mid section includes the cat and yes at LR prices he is not far wrong but you should be ably to get both sections for 300. if you shop around.

Are you loosing power on hills and over 70 mph and does the engine management light come on as if so a less common problem is a cat blocking up, we had one that had us scratching our heads, once we had de-gutted the cat all the problems were solved

The metal pipe is the ird breather and the other is the turbo vent filter, both are vented to air so as they should be

Any problems with the abs light coming on, as if memory serves the off side rear abs sensor sends the speed signal to the speedo.

its on a 03 pre facelift and it has polycarbonate lenses. Not sure if the facelift will make a difference but on mine had no problems.

been running 90/100 for the last 3 years no problems with mot or lenses/wiring, and on the dip beam no apparent problems with other drivers.

As stated have you checked your crankcase filter, as it could be that as the engine pressure builds it is forcing oil through the turbo seals and causing the running on. What is your oil level are you using a lot as that as well would indicate the above. I once saw a defender that the seals had...

I have 95k on the clock, and whilst you do not need a cat for the mot emisions, the examiner could fail it for not having the correct exhaust system on it as he will know it should have a cat, thats why de-gutting is better than a bypass pipe as they can not tell.

Hope this may help if anyone has been having the same problems as we have. Been having a few problems with loss of power under load/high speed and a over boost problem We today during a service found the front pipe to manifold loose, tightened up and took for test drive, it ran like a pig no...

The symptoms sound like a seal failure on the duel circuit in the master cylinder. or a leak in one of the circuits, is there fluid in both half's of the reservoir.

Hi all, has anyone used Innotek turbo cleaner. Reading reports it seems to quite good on variable vane turbo's. So just wondered if any on here have used it and what results you have got.

I assume its 1.8 petrol. The water loss could be due to a head gasket failing the way to check it take it to a garage to do a sniff test, that will show any problems. The banging noise you described will be a failed IRD only way to cure is to replace and not cheap, it is likely that the VCU...

Follow this link for a details of what to do http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-rear-diff-mount-replacement-how-guide-101774.html

You can change the front one with out dropping the sub frame. just support the diff remove all the bolts from the front mountings, remove the bolts from both rear mountings and you can push the diff over to the side and get the front mounting out, it takes a bit of manoeuvring but not a bad job...

As previously stated it is a classic symptom of a worn diff mount/mounts usually the front rear. Do you get a clunking sound when accelerating or heavy braking. If so then would have another look at the mounts.

Remove the the 6 screws and then the access plate above the pump/sender unit. turn on ignition and listen and feel the unit to see if it is running. If not then i would put my money on a failed pump. Its a easy job to change but the down side is that not a cheap fix. Just read your last post to...

No extra filter. Just two pumps 1 in the tank and the other in engine bay.

You do not have a pump in the rear wheel arch on a 2001 only 2003 onwards have one pump. The primary pump is it the tank which may have failed from your description. just disconnect the pump in the engine bay and remove the inlet pipe and see if you are getting a flow from the rear pump.

Like said it will be a cable that has frayed. If you go down the route of just changing the cable then make sure you get a set with the nipples pre fixed. We have done a few of these and have had no problems with repair.

Did you get her to pull the pedal up with her foot, the best way i have found is to open the master cylinder. Top up to top, open bleed nipple depress pedal close nipple pull up pedal, then repeat. before putting the cap back on cylinder put some rags under it to catch the excess fluid. Having...