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Get a few layers of cardboard until you build up 3mm and cut out a template to the area you're concerned about. Stick it on and see if it fouls anything. :)

RE jubilee clips, my engine bay is full of these: T-bolt Clamps

I had 235/85/16 Insa Special Tracks on my last Disco. That had a 2" lift and it still needed the rear arches camel cutting.

Nice looking bumper, but DRLs on older vehicles just doesn't look right, IMO. But, if you like it then that's all that matters. I'd personally look to replace the DRLs with spot lights, as it's still a good idea and a smart looking bumper. :)

Yes. Calipers for vented discs are only different due to them being slightly wider to accommodate the vented disc.

Sounds interesting. Any linkys, please? :D

I upgraded to vented discs on mine, but only because I was fitting new calipers, so I decided I may as well go for the vented version. Marginally better, but no more effective than upgrading the pads to something like EBC Green Stuff, IMHO.

If you paid via PayPal - open a case. A member of this forum did the same with me a few years ago, but luckily I paid via PayPal, opened a case and got my money back direct from PP fairly quickly. I'm guessing they then took it straight out of his connected bank account.

For example:

+1 for Llama 4x4. Dave made all of my custom brake lines. Top job, top bloke. He made all the brake lines for Mr. Noisy's set up too.

I really like that...

Thinking about it, that's a good question... The axel casings were the one thing I didn't paint myself. My mate has a spray gun and is damn handy with it. (Hence getting him to do them. :D ) He used a proper etch primer and some hardcore, black topcoat that went on like tar and dried like...

I'm sh*t with plants. My Mrs went away last year for 3 weeks and we lost all but one of our house plants whilst under my care... :o

They're a 6mm thick, weld on replacement diff pan made by Gwyn Lewis. I had him weld them on as the amount of heat generated welding those on warps the axle casing, so he set up a jig and straightened them back out again by welding strips across select areas of the tubing and grinding it off...

I refurbished mine to a factory finish last year. Highly recommend getting the casing acid dipped and then using POR-15 paint, as discussed on another thread tonight. I also had the swivel housings and hubs acid dipped and then painted them. Depends how far you want to go. I probably went...

POR-15 comes with a 'contains chemicals known to cause cancer' warning...

Furthermore, you'll need to buy a load of cheap brushes, as once you've finished painting in one session, it's straight in the bin with the brush. This is where I bought my POR-15 from: Search results for: 'Por15 chassis' | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques

Top tip - buy the chassis painting kit that comprises of 6 small cans, as you can't paint straight out the pot with this stuff - it has to be decanted if you don't intend on using the whole tin in one session, or you'll NEVER get the lid back off it if you replace it when wet.

I think I managed 20 odd miles before I realised the error of my ways. Soon make a noise!

True dat. I found that out last year, luckily it hadn't quite fell off but another 10 miles or so and it would have... :o