POR15 vs red oxide and black gloss? Worth it?

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Freetime101

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Howdy, I've done my research and as with most things, there are mixed reviews on this...

I've taken my 1973 88 back to the bare chassis and need to paint the chassis before rebuilding it.
POR15 is widely recommended and seems to be the most durable product out there but is pricey. I was planning on buying this kit: POR-15 small kit Prep Ready & marine clean rust prevention paint + black-cote | eBay but wonder if there's a better way to spend £70?

My chassis is pretty sound, and has new dumb irons and rear x member, but is still 40 years old so will probably be pretty rusty on the inside. Also I'll be cleaning and painting it in the garden, POR15 seems to need pretty controlled conditions to work well.

Is POR15 worth the extra price over red oxide and black gloss? something like this:Coo-Var Red Oxide Metal Primer 1L | Wickes.co.uk with this: Wickes Metal Paint High Gloss Black 750ml | Wickes.co.uk for 1/3 of the price?

Is it worth spending the money on POR15 for a 40 year old chassis, or just red oxide and black gloss? What have people on here tried and tested?

Cheers!


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POR-15-sm..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item5afe1a4d0e
 
I have used POR15, it's really good, if you use the POR clear sealer, then the POR treatment paint and then apply the top coat, it does need to be quite warm for it to cure properly to give lasting protection, £70 seems cheap, cost me nearly £200 when I did a 110. Anyway, it is about the closest thing to a powder coated finish you can get without powder coating and its proper durable too, just try not to ingest any of it, its really poisonous.
 
And if you do go for the POR15 paint, DON'T GET IT ON YOUR SKIN.
It doesn't wash off. At all.

Bloody good stuff. Lethal, but good.
 
I'm leaning heavily towards POR15 - how well does it stick to old paint? I'm going to go over the chassis with the grinder but there will enevitably be areas I can't reach... I've heard it can just peel off if not done correctly....
 
Just make sure the surface is a grease free and no loose stuff, normal preparation as you would for any application of paint is required. It is quite a thick paint but does not chip like regular gloss paint, you should only have to paint the chassis once with the POR 15 system.
 
If it's as good as it sounds I'll end up with an empty shell of POR15 for a chassis in years to come as it rusts from the inside!

POR15 it is then, how much will I need for a swb chassis? I don't want to buy too much and waste it :p
 
Top tip - buy the chassis painting kit that comprises of 6 small cans, as you can't paint straight out the pot with this stuff - it has to be decanted if you don't intend on using the whole tin in one session, or you'll NEVER get the lid back off it if you replace it when wet.
 
I find the more horrifically dangerous the product, the better it was, all this water based love a Dolphin stuff is crap, even in the States they are allowed proper paint stripper, I presume they are trusted not to eat it.
 
Thats why POR 15 is good stuff, just don't eat, breath it or use it as facial scrub and you will be fine
 
I've started painting my chassis with this, initially bought it to do the more exposed area's on my 110 but it goes on much easier than hammerite. I was very surprised how far such a small tim went as i found it very watery applying it but it does dry to a solid and complete finish.
 
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