Disco 2 D2 TD5 Auto - Hesitation

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Shogun243

Shogun243

Member
Posts
71
Location
East Sussex
Hi all,
Back with a new truck and some new (albeit more minor) issues!

Having some issues with pulling away - I don't expect sizzling 0-60 times, but there is a distinct hesitation between foot down to movement when starting from a standstill.

This seems about 2 seconds, after which the truck goes like the clappers without issue. Pulling the MAF does not affect this behaviour.

The gear selector and dash show D correctly when it is selected, and I've not had any starting/running issues or similar.

Any ideas?
 
Shogun243 said:
Hi all,
Back with a new truck and some new (albeit more minor) issues!

Having some issues with pulling away - I don't expect sizzling 0-60 times, but there is a distinct hesitation between foot down to movement when starting from a standstill.

This seems about 2 seconds, after which the truck goes like the clappers without issue. Pulling the MAF does not affect this behaviour.

The gear selector and dash show D correctly when it is selected, and I've not had any starting/running issues or similar.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...
I think this is quite common, especially when cold.
Mine did that but much worse until I changed the MAP/IAT sensor.
If you can have a look at live data it might tell you how your MAP/iat is behaving.
You could always just take it out and clean it, very carefully, don't go poking anything down the little hole, that'll buggr it for sure! Use Sensor cleaner.
 
Shogun243 said:
Hi all,
Back with a new truck and some new (albeit more minor) issues!

Having some issues with pulling away - I don't expect sizzling 0-60 times, but there is a distinct hesitation between foot down to movement when starting from a standstill.

This seems about 2 seconds, after which the truck goes like the clappers without issue. Pulling the MAF does not affect this behaviour.

The gear selector and dash show D correctly when it is selected, and I've not had any starting/running issues or similar.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Has to be said this is also par for the course with an auto, the torque converter has to power itself up, and there may be some electronics involved which might also be a factor, but not sure about that. @sierrafery will tell us.
You get used to it.;)
Like when overtaking, put your foot down ahead of time to allow for it.
I had two auto Cortinas, mk2 and mk3, when I was a rep, and I used to tear around like an idiot, as much younger then, so learned to time the foot down process! 🤣
 
Ive ordered a transmission service kit so I can rule out filter or low fluid.

Paid more attention to it the last few times and it actually feels like the engine itself is "waiting", either boost or ECU not allowing more fuel for a second or two?
 
Shogun243 said:
Ive ordered a transmission service kit so I can rule out filter or low fluid.

Paid more attention to it the last few times and it actually feels like the engine itself is "waiting", either boost or ECU not allowing more fuel for a second or two?
Click to expand...
Your servicing of it with a new filter and fluid will do no harm at all.
 
just wondering, is this from neutral, bang in drive then flooring it straight away? or already in drive, floor it and it does nothing for 2 seconds? do the revs jump up or like pause for 2 seconds?
 
Luke2025 said:
just wondering, is this from neutral, bang in drive then flooring it straight away? or already in drive, floor it and it does nothing for 2 seconds? do the revs jump up or like pause for 2 seconds?
Click to expand...
This is both, happens after starting the drive but also on the road - have nearly come acropper at roundabouts and junctions when I shoot a gap and then trundle across both lanes for about 5 working days!
 
Shogun243 said:
15p I believe, previous owner had it remapped and they did so via OBD which if memory serves is not possible on the 10p, correct me if im wrong?
Click to expand...
Standard original early 10p ECMs were un-remappable I believe without changing a chip, at least one, but @sierrafery will confirm.
Have you already done live data?
I still think it could be the MAP/Iat as it was very like that on mine till I changed it. But mine is a 2000MY 10p engine.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Standard original early 10p ECMs were un-remappable I believe without changing a chip, at least one, but @sierrafery will confirm.
Have you already done live data?
I still think it could be the MAP/Iat as it was very like that on mine till I changed it. But mine is a 2000MY 10p engine.
Click to expand...
Unplugging the MAF made no difference to the symptoms, but I've got no dash lights (ignoring the ABS mates that turn up every once in a while), could it still be MAF?
 
Shogun243 said:
Unplugging the MAF made no difference to the symptoms, but I've got no dash lights (ignoring the ABS mates that turn up every once in a while), could it still be MAF?
Click to expand...
If no difference with MAF unplugged it's not that.... what do you mean you have no dash lights? they dont come on at all for the ignition self test?
 
sierrafery said:
If no difference with MAF unplugged it's not that.... what do you mean you have no dash lights? they dont come on at all for the ignition self test?
Click to expand...
No warning lights under normal driving is what I meant! Cluster lights all check cycle as normal during ignition on.

Next step, find my mate with Nanocom for a sniff about to see what its not telling me!
 
sierrafery said:
If no difference with MAF unplugged it's not that.... what do you mean you have no dash lights? they dont come on at all for the ignition self test?
Click to expand...
They do, but by no dash lights I mean nothing appearing linked to the behaviour. All lights check cycle as they should when ignition is turned on!
 
Run a stall test on it
 

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