Rear wheel bearings or diff

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Chris_68

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Hi folks,

Is there a way to find out if the noice from rear is due to wheel bearings or diff? The car is a Freelander 1 -04 26000km and afaik the bearings are never replaced. I have the car jacked up at the moment trying to listen and recorded when spinning the wheels but doesnt getting any wiser.

I have done a "one wheel up" test and its 43s so the VCU is fine, any suggestions what to test?

/Chris
 
Ears can deceive and noises tend to transmit down body and propshaft etc.

An easy check and a very likely cause is the VCU bearings.

Simply unbolt and support the VCU clear of body then spin them by hand on the prop.

Check for backlash (free play) in diff and also oil level and oil for metal particles.

Bearings show up usually if wheel is spun.
 
Last edited:
Hi Andy

Thank you very much, The VCU was replaced 3 years ago and haven't driven much, bearings are GKN. I will check if I don't find anything else that's wrong.

Main suspect now is the diff :-(
 
Hi

I had MOT today so didn't want to mess with transmission before that, will check the VCU bearings in the weekend.
Now I have to focus on the lambda value which MOT didn't like :)
 
Hi

First, thank you and excuse me for slow response. Had to remove manifold and exhaust to weld a leaking exhaust and after that too many other projects.

Its quite a job to remove the prop shaft so decided to replace the bearings (not entire assembly) and U-joints,
If I understand correctly original ones are 30x55x15, would it work with 30x55x13 SKF/FAG ? the wider ones are three times as expensive. I have only found 30x55x19, they are expensive and not sure they will fit.

U-joints, the prices are either t £4-5 or £50 for genuine, is it worth to get genuine?

Thank you !
 
Hi,

I removed the VCU and propshaft and drove a bit, the noise (but less I think) is still there so a humble request for advice.

I filled up the diff oil some months ago, will try to empty, inspect oil and refill. I attach a video of the backlash, is it acceptable or could this be the problem?
The video is recorded with wheels on ground.

/Chris
 
Last edited:
Looks OK to me.

Should say I have no idea what it should look like, just looks OK to me. I'm going by the IRD pinion which I think that would be OK on, so long as there was no lateral movement.
 
Thanks, I'm now in the process of replacing the VCU bearings, U-joints. plus new diff oil, couldn't find anything obvious but better to replace since I removed everything.
Will report back when I have all parts.
 
Slow progress here... A question regarding UJ. I ordered ones with a grease nipple but there's no grub screw and not easy get one here.
Can I leave the grease nipples in place?

Thanks
/Chris
 
Chris_68 said:
Slow progress here... A question regarding UJ. I ordered ones with a grease nipple but there's no grub screw and not easy get one here.
Can I leave the grease nipples in place?

Thanks
/Chris
Click to expand...
If the grease fitting doesn't get in the way under normal running, then it can be left in place. Put the grease fitting on the shaft side, not the flange side, as it will be easier to get the gun on. ;)
 
Hi,

I have forgotten to update this post, it was actually the left bearing. After it got worse it was easier to distinguish.

The problem now is that I have to replace the rear right bearing which was kind of expected...
The workshop failed to remove the long bolt for the link arm so I got it back. It feels like rusted solid in the hub, but I guess it is not impossible to get it back on the road.

Which option is recommended?
1 get a hub from the scrap yard (usually they have the link arms attached...), are they all the same diesel/petrol from -96?
2 is it possible to keep the link arm attached to hub and just remove them from chassi and still press out the bearing?
3 Try with penetrating oil where the bolt enters the hub + heat or in worst case cut and drill out

any recommendations or other options I haven't thought of?

/Chris
 
Last edited:
The last one I did, with the correct sized sleeves for pressing, I did on the car.

Unbolted arms from subframe, pop out driveshaft, reattach arms loosely and then drive out hub and press out bearing.

Then press in new one and press in hub.

Easier than on the bench as it is held for you.

No need to touch the long bolt.
 
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