I love the nifty install in the ash tray. You've done some really well thought out things with this conversion.Some photo's of the cabin heater controller.
View attachment 313479View attachment 313480View attachment 313483View attachment 313482View attachment 313481View attachment 313486
I don't think I've ever used the ash tray anyway.
And yesterday I even managed to refuel my car using the sun. View attachment 313485
I love the nifty install in the ash tray. You've done some really well thought out things with this conversion.
Still great work!I love the way you said nifty and not neat cause neat it ain't. But since nobody will ever see the inside I guess I'll get away with it.
Cutting the hole semi straight with a dremel was not easy and I used a little file to try and tidy it up a bit but TBH it looks much neater in the car than the photo's suggest. They are taken up close with a lot of light.
BTW I forgot to mention the knob was 3D printed and it only took four attempts to get it right.
It was always a shaft for a knob, just the first one was all wrinkly and hard (metal) and 4kR whereas the second is smoother softer and fatter (plastic) but only 1kR.Still great work!
I was wondering about the change from a toggle switch to the knob...?
Ah, I see. Thought the first one looked like a toggle in the pics. My mistakeIt was always a shaft for a knob, just the first one was all wrinkly and hard (metal) and 4kR whereas the second is smoother softer and fatter (plastic) but only 1kR.
They could if I knew how to tell them to but no, they are all stand alone.Do all those little computers talk to each other as well ?
That was lucky Ali.I had to make the phone call of shame today.
Followed by the tow of shame.
Then the final push of shame.
I was driving in slow moving traffic when I heard a bang, when I opened the bonnet I saw smoke pouring out of the HV junction box. There was no fire but something had obviously gone up in smoke.
After I got it home I found the precharge resistor had gone bang, something had gone wrong so it had been carrying all the current for the car.
Turns out a 5A fuse that fed a latching relay had blown. The relay was a safety net to keep the main positive contactor fed so long as the ignition was on but now it had a blown fuse the safety was gone.
Fuse and Resistor on the shelf of shame.
View attachment 313730
Thankfully the only damage was the resistor so after rewiring to prevent the issue happening again and replacing the resistor all is well.
Yes mate.That was lucky Ali.
Can you reconfigure the system so it can't happen again?
Glad it wasn't too invasive to sort.Yes mate.
I now have the ignition providing 12V for both the coil of the latching relay and the latching contacts.
Originally I had connected the latching contact to 12V permanent.
I think this meant the relay stayed latched on after I turned off the ignition then back fed 12V through the relay and 5A fuse to the ignition fuse block. This only lasted for a second or two before the 5A fuse failed leaving me with no operational latching relay.
The car still started and drove but without a latching relay any slight glitch caused the positive contactor to open with the precharge resistor carrying all the current.
You could say that......Glad it wasn't too invasive to sort.
So this can be put down as trouble shooting?
To be fair, you have done something that probably hasn't been done before, on a Freelander anyway.You could say that......
Or be honest and say Cockup sorting.
Thanks mate, I have to admit I am chuffed to bits to have got it working and every time I overcome an issue it gives me a real feeling of achievement. If it was easy everyone would do it (probably! ).To be fair, you have done something that probably hasn't been done before, on a Freelander anyway.
I'm impressed with what you have achieved. Ok so there's been a few teething troubles, but nothing compared to those a manufacturer would have doing the same thing, and manufacturers have huge resources at their disposal.
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