Freelander 1 Freelander EV

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Some photo's of the cabin heater controller.

IMG_20240323_135944263.jpg
IMG_20240323_140040908.jpg
IMG_20240324_132348088_HDR.jpg
IMG_20240324_132338036.jpg
IMG_20240324_132329160.jpg
IMG_20240325_183157618.jpg



I don't think I've ever used the ash tray anyway. 😋

And yesterday I even managed to refuel my car using the sun.
IMG_20240324_133545248_HDR.jpg
 
I love the nifty install in the ash tray. You've done some really well thought out things with this conversion.

I love the way you said nifty and not neat cause neat it ain't. 🤣 But since nobody will ever see the inside I guess I'll get away with it. ☺️
Cutting the hole semi straight with a dremel was not easy and I used a little file to try and tidy it up a bit but TBH it looks much neater in the car than the photo's suggest. They are taken up close with a lot of light.
BTW I forgot to mention the knob was 3D printed and it only took four attempts to get it right. 🤣
 
I love the way you said nifty and not neat cause neat it ain't. 🤣 But since nobody will ever see the inside I guess I'll get away with it. ☺️
Cutting the hole semi straight with a dremel was not easy and I used a little file to try and tidy it up a bit but TBH it looks much neater in the car than the photo's suggest. They are taken up close with a lot of light.
BTW I forgot to mention the knob was 3D printed and it only took four attempts to get it right. 🤣
Still great work!

I was wondering about the change from a toggle switch to the knob...?
 
It was always a shaft for a knob, just the first one was all wrinkly and hard (metal) and 4kR whereas the second is smoother softer and fatter (plastic) but only 1kR.
Ah, I see. Thought the first one looked like a toggle in the pics. My mistake
 
Do all those little computers talk to each other as well ?
They could if I knew how to tell them to but no, they are all stand alone.
Current Arduino count is 4 if you include the VCU which is a Due in a fancy board.

1, Due controlling charging but hope to add more functionality to it some day.
2, Uno controlling the coolant pumps. It used to control the vacuum boost as well but I changed the sensor so no longer need it doing that.
3, Nano controlling the heater.
4. Due in the VCU.
The coolant pump control is very simple so I should be able to copy the code into the Due that controls charging.
 
Last edited:
I had to make the phone call of shame today. :oops:
Followed by the tow of shame. 😢
Then the final push of shame. 😭

I was driving in slow moving traffic when I heard a bang, when I opened the bonnet I saw smoke pouring out of the HV junction box. 😮 There was no fire but something had obviously gone up in smoke.

After I got it home I found the precharge resistor had gone bang, something had gone wrong so it had been carrying all the current for the car.
Turns out a 5A fuse that fed a latching relay had blown. The relay was a safety net to keep the main positive contactor fed so long as the ignition was on but now it had a blown fuse the safety was gone.

Fuse and Resistor on the shelf of shame.

IMG_20240329_195745432.jpg


Thankfully the only damage was the resistor so after rewiring to prevent the issue happening again and replacing the resistor all is well. :)
 
I had to make the phone call of shame today. :oops:
Followed by the tow of shame. 😢
Then the final push of shame. 😭

I was driving in slow moving traffic when I heard a bang, when I opened the bonnet I saw smoke pouring out of the HV junction box. 😮 There was no fire but something had obviously gone up in smoke.

After I got it home I found the precharge resistor had gone bang, something had gone wrong so it had been carrying all the current for the car.
Turns out a 5A fuse that fed a latching relay had blown. The relay was a safety net to keep the main positive contactor fed so long as the ignition was on but now it had a blown fuse the safety was gone.

Fuse and Resistor on the shelf of shame.

View attachment 313730

Thankfully the only damage was the resistor so after rewiring to prevent the issue happening again and replacing the resistor all is well. :)
That was lucky Ali.
Can you reconfigure the system so it can't happen again?
 
That was lucky Ali.
Can you reconfigure the system so it can't happen again?
Yes mate.
I now have the ignition providing 12V for both the coil of the latching relay and the latching contacts.
Originally I had connected the latching contact to 12V permanent. 😮
I think this meant the relay stayed latched on after I turned off the ignition then back fed 12V through the relay and 5A fuse to the ignition fuse block. This only lasted for a second or two before the 5A fuse failed leaving me with no operational latching relay.
The car still started and drove but without a latching relay any slight glitch caused the positive contactor to open with the precharge resistor carrying all the current.
 
Last edited:
Yes mate.
I now have the ignition providing 12V for both the coil of the latching relay and the latching contacts.
Originally I had connected the latching contact to 12V permanent. 😮
I think this meant the relay stayed latched on after I turned off the ignition then back fed 12V through the relay and 5A fuse to the ignition fuse block. This only lasted for a second or two before the 5A fuse failed leaving me with no operational latching relay.
The car still started and drove but without a latching relay any slight glitch caused the positive contactor to open with the precharge resistor carrying all the current.
Glad it wasn't too invasive to sort.
So this can be put down as trouble shooting?
 
You could say that......
Or be honest and say Cockup sorting. :homer:
To be fair, you have done something that probably hasn't been done before, on a Freelander anyway.
I'm impressed with what you have achieved. Ok so there's been a few teething troubles, but nothing compared to those a manufacturer would have doing the same thing, and manufacturers have huge resources at their disposal.
 
To be fair, you have done something that probably hasn't been done before, on a Freelander anyway.
I'm impressed with what you have achieved. Ok so there's been a few teething troubles, but nothing compared to those a manufacturer would have doing the same thing, and manufacturers have huge resources at their disposal.
Thanks mate, I have to admit I am chuffed to bits to have got it working and every time I overcome an issue it gives me a real feeling of achievement. If it was easy everyone would do it (probably! 😋).
If I had no clue why the issue happened I would be much more concerned. ;)
 
I think I've discovered why the steering wheel is 1/4 turned when driving straight and the car pulls a little.

Drivers side front towing out

IMG_20240404_211058691.jpg


Drivers side rear towing in

IMG_20240404_211038142.jpg


The passenger side looks OK with the rear being straight and the front towing in a little so I'll have a go at sorting the drivers side today.
 
So the plan for today was to adjust the tracking to try and get the steering wheel straight and all the wheels pointing in the right direction and I failed miserably. 🥺
I figured I'd start with the rear wheel so jacked it up and with some difficulty managed to loosen the nuts on the rear track control arm. Unfortunately that was the easy bit as no matter what I did I couldn't turn the adjuster. I tried all the tools I have but could only turn it a small amount. It did help a little but not enough.
I Have a spare on the other car but to be honest I couldn't be bothered with the effort of removing it and trying to loosen it so I'll order a new one along with the long bolt it goes onto as I know from experience it will be seized solid.
Anybody been there recently could advise if I need to order anything else while I'm at it?
 
Back
Top