Help PLEASE !!! Freelander 2. rear passenger door locked

Rear Passenger door will not open.

Hello All.
I have a FR2 HSE, 2009 plate, everything was ok but the other day I found out that my rear passenger door will not open from either the inside or the outside. I have tried the trick of banging the inside door trim with my palm whilst clicking on the key fob, but no luck there is only me and the missus, we are both retired have no kids, so we do not use the child locks, and I have never had anybody sitting in the back since I got the motor 2 years ago. I cannot hear the solonoid energise in the door when i lock and unlock off the keyfob.

I have started to take of the door panel, undid the 4 screws ect. but i cannot unclip the door panel because the door will not open, If anybody could please give me any ideas how to fix this problem, I would be forever thankful. my motor is due for MOT and it will not pass as it is, plus i need the motor as my dad has heart problems, he is 85 and doesnt drive,
Thank You

I have also just discovered that the door which is locked and wont open, is the only door that the window will not energise either, so I am now thinking that either there is a break in the 12v feed to the door actuator and the window motor, or a connector block has com adrift inside when the door has been opened and closed. either way, the door card has to come off, and thats the ball ache. I cant get it off with the door closed. I will try taking the rear seat out see if that will help, but i very much doubt it

ChieftainMK2 said:

I have a FR2 HSE, 2009 plate, everything was ok but the other day I found out that my rear passenger door will not open from either the inside or the outside.

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Silly question, but as nothing is working in that door, have you checked the door module fuse? It's FA3 and FA4 are for the rear doors.
The fuse the only thing in common which controls the door locks and windows.

Also what does a code read report? The door module is smart enough to identify faulty door lock motors. However if there's no communication with the door module, it would suggest there's a power issue to that module, which could again point to the fuse, or maybe a faulty door module.

Nodge68 said:

Silly question, but as nothing is working in that door, have you checked the door module fuse? It's FA3 and FA4 are for the rear doors.
The fuse the only thing in common which controls the door locks and windows.

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Hello Nodge68.
Thank you for your reply. I have not checked the fuses that you mentioned, as the other rear door is operating ok, I thought both doors may be on one fuse and seeing as the other door is working, I presumed the fuse was ok. so are you saying that the doors locks ect, each door has its own fuse ? Thanks

ChieftainMK2 said:

so are you saying that the doors locks ect, each door has its own fuse ?

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That's correct. Each door has it's own door control module within the door cavity. Each door module has its own 25A fuse. The fuses are FA1, FA2, FA3, FA4, the latter are for the rear doors.
The door module controls everything that happens within the door, which is the locking motor, window control, and the door closed sensor too. The door module gets a control signal from the CJB, and will also pass error codes to the CJB for reading by a suitable code reader.

The speakers have their own wiring, as do the door puddle lights if fitted.

Nodge68 said:

Also what does a code read report? The door module is smart enough to identify faulty door lock motors. However if there's no communication with the door module, it would suggest there's a power issue to that module, which could again point to the fuse, or maybe a faulty door module.

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Hi Nodge.
I have just been out and checked the 25 amp fuses they are all ok, I even changed them around, but no luck, i cannot check the code as I do not have a code reader to plug in, I will have to see about getting one. Tha k you for your help, Sincerely appreciated.

ChieftainMK2 said:

I have just been out and checked the 25 amp fuses they are all ok, I even changed them around, but no luck

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It was just a thought.

ChieftainMK2 said:

I do not have a code reader to plug in, I will have to see about getting one.

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Owning a vehicle as complicated as a modern LR, a full systems code reader is very useful.
Everything is software driven, so a code reader is invaluable.

I'm guessing you've tried a hard reset?

The owner's handbook explains how to reconfigure the windows and sunroof after the battery is reconnected.

The door stopped working last year, I said I would get round to sorting it out, but illness in the family put paid to that, I left the dashcam plugged in a few weeks ago and forgot to unplug it, I didnt drive her for 9 days so when i came out to her, the battery was flat, I took the battery off and charged it up, put it back on a day later and all the 3 doors that worked worked ok as did with the sunroof, I didnt need to reset anything, (Actually I didnt know you had to reset anything after repacing the battery) i just had to reset the clock. I have tried a hard reset, I presume this is where you press the lock button on the key fob constantly untill both indicator direction lights flash together in unison, then you do the same operation with the unlock button. I tried it but no matter how many times i pressed the keyfob, the indicator lights didnt flash together in unison, so i didnt try again, this was on Thursday, I presume that you do it whilst sat in the vehicle ? I have always done my own mechanics since I was 14, my dad had his own car repair garage. I am now 68yrs old and cars are a bit different these days, I have a good knowledge of electrics so that is ok, but what is bloody galling is, I cannot remove a door card/panel in my car because the door wont open, is that ironic or what lol, I have no trouble Testing, Replacing or having a go at repairing anything within the door, When I can get to it, preferably I do not want to rip apart my door card / panel.

ChieftainMK2 said:

(Actually I didnt know you had to reset anything after repacing the battery)

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You do need to do the calibration, or the auto function on the windows or sunroof doesn't work.

Modern cars are now insanely complicated compared to just 20 years ago.
Everything is now done with modules responding to data sent from other modules, it's all getting silly.

Unfortunately the door card is a pain to get off with the door open, but with it closed it's probably impossible.

Just getting at the door lock actuator is a pain, as the window also needs removing first, as it's in the way.

Even if you can get to the inside of the lock actuator, I don't see how you'll get it unlocked. The locking motors are inside the assembly, and the only way into the assembly is to remove some small Torx screw, which are on the door skin side of the lock.

It's not going to be easy.

I've had a code for my LH rear door lock for some time, but at the moment the door still locks and unlocks OK, so I've been putting changing the actuator off.

However I'm thinking I might just have to do the job, before I also can't open the door.

Nodge68 said:

You do need to do the calibration, or the auto function on the windows or sunroof doesn't work.

Modern cars are now insanely complicated compared to just 20 years ago.
Everything is now done with modules responding to data sent from other modules, it's all getting silly.

Unfortunately the door card is a pain to get off with the door open, but with it closed it's probably impossible.

Just getting at the door lock actuator is a pain, as the window also needs removing first, as it's in the way.

Even if you can get to the inside of the lock actuator, I don't see how you'll get it unlocked. The locking motors are inside the assembly, and the only way into the assembly is to remove some small Torx screw, which are on the door skin side of the lock.

It's not going to be easy.

I've had a code for my LH rear door lock for some time, but at the moment the door still locks and unlocks OK, so I've been putting changing the actuator off.

However I'm thinking I might just have to do the job, before I also can't open the door.

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Hi Nodge68
I will go get my handbook and have a read of how to do the calibration then do it.

Wow - no burn it posts yet

kurtjohnson10 said:

Wow - no burn it posts yet

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Lol Kurt. I love my motor too much to get that frustrated, plus its early days yet, I may eventually get around to it, if so, I will ask you to borrow your lighter, as I dodnt smoke

ChieftainMK2 said:

Hi Nodge68
I will go get my handbook and have a read of how to do the calibration then do it. tis is my email address. If you drop me a mail. I will send you my mobile number, then If i find any magic tric or info out, I will let you know. Thanks again for your help, sincerely appreciated.
[email protected]

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I'd remove your email addy from the thread, as there are some strange people in the world.


I prefer to keep vehicle related information on the public forum, as this then helps others later on.

Nodge68 said:

I'd remove your email addy from the thread, as there are some strange people in the world.


I prefer to keep vehicle related information on the public forum, as this then helps others later on.

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Ok, No probs, I will remove it, I know what you mean. If I find anythingI will post it.

Nodge68 said:

I'd remove your email addy from the thread, as there are some strange people in the world.


I prefer to keep vehicle related information on the public forum, as this then helps others later on.

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Hi Nodge68.
I have looked in my drivers handbook for Hard Reset also looked in my Haynes Manual but I cannot find where it explains how to perform it, have you any idea? I have also checked "Search " on this site, but to no avail. I have checked on Youtube and it shows a hard reset on any car, where you disconnect both battery leads then hold them together for 2 minutes then replace them Positive first, I wanted to check on here as I get a bit sus about some youtube postings. Cheers

Chuck some water on it and the door will just fall off.

Tenebreaux said:

Chuck some water on it and the door will just fall off.

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If only, mine has been so looked after I woud have to wait for a long time for that to happen.

ChieftainMK2 said:

I have checked on Youtube and it shows a hard reset on any car, where you disconnect both battery leads then hold them together for 2 minutes then replace them Positive first

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That's correct.
You short the battery leads for 2 minutes, then reconnect positive first.
Then you'll need to do the calibration of the windows and sunroof, oh and set the clock.

Tenebreaux said:

Chuck some water on it and the door will just fall off.

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That only works on Defender's, not the much more sturdy Freelander.

Us P38 boys snigger at the tales of doors falling off (Freelanders) and chassis rot (Classic's Disco's and L322's) but we are a bit "twitchy" about our heater "O"-rings and our BeCM hydroscopic issues.