P38 What does it need to become a good daily driver?

I am a few months into the ownership of my P38 Diesel and while it's a lovely car, its got a few issues that still need doing - mostly electrical, but I have a question that has been bugging me.

The idea I have is I really want to make the P38 as reliable as my Suzuki - so that is regularly serviced, always starts and always capable of getting from A to B. It it asking too much?

I was already planning to service it like clockwork, but I am wondering if there is a regular service task that isn't noted in the usual places, but makes a big difference to a better level of reliability?

My current extra plan is to start updating the plugs and harnesses in the areas where the electrics play up - dodgy electrics just needs time and slightly better quality. But, is there anywhere I really need to keep an eye on?

Hoping you guys can help me - thanks

EAS maintenance would be the top of my list "assuming you still have eas" a valveblock and compressor rebuild wouldn't go a miss even replacing the desiccant in the air drier is easy to do and ensures it doesn't fall on its face at the most inconvenient times.
Airbags too they have a max service life of around 8-10yrs and can crack and fatigue which causes leaks, which subsequently causes the ****pressor to overwork and overheat!

Electrics can be troublesome, in my experience 99% of issues were water related, apparently sensitive elecy components don't like to be surrounded by water!

The blocks behind the Captain and drinkers side foot well panels are a common cause of issues, they turn green and cause all kinds of havoc, simply cutting the wires one by one and soldering them fixes this issue.

Side note, it is worth checking the carpet for water ingress.

1) The heater core O rings DO fail but it is an 1hr job to replace so not too bad.
2) Pollen filter covers are another common leak point, water also wicks down the screws that hold the scuttle to the body, so a dab of sealant on them is a must.
3 Sunroof frames rot and cause leaks, the drains too..

maintenance is top of the list especially with the diesel..

Oil/Filter every 4-6k
Fresh Coolant is rather important for both the M51 and V8
Transmission oil + filter every 25k
Brake fluid too
PAS fluid
Axle and transfer case oil.

The ABS pump accumulator the nitrogen charge in tends to dissipate and the pump runs for every pedal depression, if the charge has completely gone it will prime even when your foot isn't on the brake, replacing that is easy and a necessity because the ABS pump can/could wear out - and I have first hand experience of what happens when the pump burns out!!!!!

P38 gets a bad rep for being terrible, and in some cases they are, but if you buy a dog thats what you'll get!!

And even then you can bring them around..

still don't forget it was a £50k luxury 4x4 which is 20yrs old, so don't expect it to perform like a little jap Suzuki

And get a Nanocom

Some great advice there, thank you.
The car is not in a bad condition, and has a full service history - and coils all around, so these little bits of extra info is priceless.

oakey said:

And get a Nanocom

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Aren't they big money? - I have the usual OBD2 equipment, but from what I've seen, these Nanocom seem difficult to justify - am I wrong?

I could be wrong but I think the P38 is non OBD compliant and you need special diag
Shame its on coils but a lot less hassle at times. Just not legal as cant adjust headlights

Only the engine is OND compliant, sod all else so a NANO is a must for diag.

Shame it is on coils.

Henry_b said:

Only the engine is OND compliant, sod all else so a NANO is a must for diag.

Shame it is on coils.

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Diesel so he won't get anywhere with OBD2.

Mine is my daily driver.

What mileage and year is it?

I don't know if Henry mentioned the RF receiver but that would be high up my list. If you've done over 150k miles the transfer box VCU probably needs refurbing and the Morse chain. FIP might be tired and need a refurb too. Lift pumps fail but no idea how to spot when. I guess they last about 100k miles.

Mine is a 2001 DT, which I've had for five years. It was serviced regularly by main dealer until I got it. I was fortunate and am only the second owner.
There's been a few things have needed doing but I don't think anything beyond what you could expect from a 20 year old vehicle. Tempting fate - it is reliable and strong and now my only vehicle.
Welcome to the fold. They're a knowledgeable bunch on here and apart from the abuse you'll get for it being on coils (mine is too) you'll get invaluable help and support.
Totally agree with previous comments - change to good oil, do it often and do all the filters. Gearbox too. And use good diesel, not supermarket crap...
Download RAVE , essential to get to know your vehicle.
Where are you in Scotland? I'm in the Borders and have Nanocom if (when!) you need it...

plumbfisher said:

Mine is a 2001 DT, which I've had for five years. It was serviced regularly by main dealer until I got it. I was fortunate and am only the second owner.
There's been a few things have needed doing but I don't think anything beyond what you could expect from a 20 year old vehicle. Tempting fate - it is reliable and strong and now my only vehicle.
Welcome to the fold. They're a knowledgeable bunch on here and apart from the abuse you'll get for it being on coils (mine is too) you'll get invaluable help and support.
Totally agree with previous comments - change to good oil, do it often and do all the filters. Gearbox too. And use good diesel, not supermarket crap...
Download RAVE , essential to get to know your vehicle.
Where are you in Scotland? I'm in the Borders and have Nanocom if (when!) you need it...

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Mine is a 3 owner DT from 1999 with 98k on the clock. Seems to have been looked after, but the last few years seems to have been a little hazy in the Service History, which is why I am looking to make sure I don't miss anything by just relying on the distance based service intervals.
So would I be right in thinking a 5k service interval would be a sensible approach?

Ideally, I am looking for a single vehicle lifestyle, but know its going to take a while before I can feel confident enough in the car to get rid of the Vitara.
I'm in Falkirk for the next yr, but home is North Wales. Thank you for you very kind offer - hopefully, I won't need to take you up on it!

1999 with only 98k? That's just run in! Mine's 200k + Hence I suspect, my timing chain stretch Recently re-set static timing of fuel pump so it is running sweetly once again while I sort myself out to replace chains and sprockets in the new year.

Having a second vehicle for emergencies would be best option. I had mine as a daily and it has caught me out once or twice. Once you get to know your vehicle they tend to give you warning signs. That feeling of worry and what if you are now getting is normal, it will always be there you just have to learn to live with it and be prepared to smile and laugh when it starts having hissy fits.

I think @Henry_b covered most of it. As you are on coils (although a shame) it does eliminate a degree of possible hurt.
We had 1 and used as a daily for a good few years before upgrading to an L322. Yes we had problems but hey ho.

The only things I would add, as you seem to understand and are prepared to get into it to make it a daily, do not leave any little issue as they turn into big issues very quick.
Ensure you have the EKA code and that your drivers door lock works properly

Good luck and enjoy it
J

RangeRoller dt said:

Having a second vehicle for emergencies would be best option. I had mine as a daily and it has caught me out once or twice. Once you get to know your vehicle they tend to give you warning signs. That feeling of worry and what if you are now getting is normal, it will always be there you just have to learn to live with it and be prepared to smile and laugh when it starts having hissy fits.

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+1. Like it or not these cars are 20 years old. Check the rear brake lines where they cross over at the back.

98k should be good for another 50k miles without too many issues. Beru glow plugs and like you say, 5k servicing.

Someone who adores it

make sure you have 2 working keys and use both regularly
Oh and welcome . With the help on this forum my RR has become a pleasure to drive, But always be prepared for the odd hiccup.

marjon said:

I think @Henry_b covered most of it.
The only things I would add, as you seem to understand and are prepared to get into it to make it a daily, do not leave any little issue as they turn into big issues very quick.
Ensure you have the EKA code and that your drivers door lock works properly

Good luck and enjoy it
J

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What is an EKA code? - got to ask!

My driver's door, sort of works - but the whole central locking is a bit messed up - soon as the more important jobs are done, I will be looking at it.

The security seems over the top, but I guess that is way you deal with 90s car thieves!

Emergency Key Access code.

It’s a code specific to your vehicle (unless NA spec) that you can input with the key if/when it all goes t**s up. Personally although I have never needed mine I wouldn’t buy a p38 without the code or you’ll have to buy it off a main dealer.

The eka = emergency key access it is done by turning the key so many turns one way then other and back and forth to enter a four number code, that should be in the front of owners hand book if take your documents down to a main agent and they should be able to give it to you for free.

I am learning so much from you guys - big thanks and respect!