P38 What does it need to become a good daily driver?

are you using the key for locking/unlocking as opposed to the fob?

brianp38dse said:

The eka = emergency key access it is done by turning the key so many turns one way then other and back and forth to enter a four number code, that should be in the front of owners hand book if take your documents down to a main agent and they should be able to give it to you for free.

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So if the microswitches that control the central locking aren't working then it won't go in and may indeed lock you out forever with too many attempts! Opening door after 2 attempts should stop that.

I'd sort the lock mechanism sooner rather than later. Imagine being stuck on the middle of a carpark with an immobilised 2.25t lump!!

Ahh - so looks like I have a bigger problem than I though?
I use the key in the drivers side as that door doesn't look, although all the other doors do.

I keep getting the alert to unlock the alarm on the key when I put the key in the ignition, which is annoying.

Seeing the feedback on this issue makes me realise its annoying because its wrong!

seriously appreciate the help you guys are sending my way!

Yamawg said:

Ahh - so looks like I have a bigger problem than I though?
I use the key in the drivers side as that door doesn't look, although all the other doors do.

I keep getting the alert to unlock the alarm on the key when I put the key in the ignition, which is annoying.

Seeing the feedback on this issue makes me realise its annoying because its wrong!

seriously appreciate the help you guys are sending my way!

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Try checking the RF receiver is plugged in under the rear driver's parcel shelf and then try syncing the key. If only the driver's lock doesn't open then more than likely the motor has burnt out in that lock. Microswitches probably OK although there is a lock test list on here somewhere.

Here is Martyuk`s lock test sheet

Using the key is okay but relying on it has added risks worth getting sorted.
If you go for a new mechanism MG unit is far cheaper than replacement LR

RangeRoller dt said:

Using the key is okay but relying on it has added risks worth getting sorted.
If you go for a new mechanism MG unit is far cheaper than replacement LR

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Depending on the year @RangeRoller dt

Good point didn’t think of that.

If he has passive coil thats his problem

Don't know what the diesel has for a fuel pump but if it is in the tank I would replace it. They can fail without warning and leave you stranded. The other thing that can leave you stranded is the security system. I know from experience. Replace drivers and passengers door latches.
Marty_UK has rebuilt one's for exchange but I hear he is currently working in NZ. Since you are on springs that eliminates the possibility of driving home on the bump stops, a rattling experience. Make sure all your cooling system hoses are in good condition. You don't want any overheating with these engines. Cover these things and I think they can be pretty reliable. I have a 99 NAS 4.6 with 224k km and it runs fine. Welcome to the club and enjoy.

2 pumps
One on the engine and one in the tank. If tank one fails just keep it above half full and don’t replace with a £40 cheapy. It needs a VDO unit.
If the engine one (FIP) fails get your wallet ready