Propshaft yoke alignment.

Hey Folks, I have a question about the propshaft yoke alignment. I’m aware there are other threads about this already but I have managed to find completely conflicting info on the forum about this and like anyone I need to be sure I’ve got mine correct to avoid problems.

So here goes, can anyone confirm if I’m correct in saying that 1) the forward section of the shaft must have its yoke 45 degrees in advance of the rear section and the rotational direction of the propshaft is anti clockwise?

I have just changed the prop position on mine as it was setup fully “in phase” with the yokes aligned by mistake previously.

Thanks for any info, Rossco

Do you mean the alignment at each end of the VCU?

Nodge68 said:

Do you mean the alignment at each end of the VCU?

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Yeah the splined parts that connect to the vcu.

Thanks

I don't think you need to worry about it due to the vcu operation

Ross Tait said:

Yeah the splined parts that connect to the vcu.

Thanks

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There's no particular way to fit the props to the VCU. The VCU shafts rotate independently of each other, so even if you lined them up, after you'd driven a few yards, they'd have moved in relationship to each other.

Ok I think I’m a bit confused about this now lol. So, I fitted the yokes to the vcu a particular way at the garage then drove about 5 miles home. They were in the same position still. I’ve since changed them to 90 degrees the other way and they seem to still be aligned like that.

Also when the car was on the ramp at the garage any time I rotate the prop from either end the entire assembly rotates not just half?

How much effort should it take to rotate the two halves separately?

Also if this is the case then I should be able to put the car on the standard mot brake test machine at work and not break anything on the car lol. Although the mot tester here usually takes them out on the road with the 4x4 test doo dah that sits on the floor and measures brake effort.

Can any of you guys say if your landy is tested on the usual mot machine??

Cheers

I get my MOTs done at the council depot where I work but I have no idea about the kit they've got there. I might ask when it's due in next in a few months.

Regarding the yoke thing, it's worth reading up on the VCU thread to understand how they work. There's vids on youtube too. Give the car a blast on some wet grass or mud and have a look after that.

Ross Tait said:

Ok I think I’m a bit confused about this now lol. So, I fitted the yokes to the vcu a particular way at the garage then drove about 5 miles home. They were in the same position still. I’ve since changed them to 90 degrees the other way and they seem to still be aligned like that

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It should move as you drive drive down the road. It could be a coincidence, or the VCU could be seized.

Ross Tait said:

Also when the car was on the ramp at the garage any time I rotate the prop from either end the entire assembly rotates not just half?

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That's pretty normal

Ross Tait said:

How much effort should it take to rotate the two halves separately?

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Under force the front and back half of the VCU should rotate separately.

Ross Tait said:

Also if this is the case then I should be able to put the car on the standard mot brake test machine at work and not break anything on the car lol. Although the mot tester here usually takes them out on the road with the 4x4 test doo dah that sits on the floor and measures brake effort.

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No, you can't use a standard 2 roller rolling road. It'll throw the car off the rollers, or break something.

Sounds like the VCU has seized, so that needs testing, before the IRD explodes.

Nodge68 said:

It should move as you drive drive down the road. It could be a coincidence, or the VCU could be seized.

That's pretty normal


Under force the front and back half of the VCU should rotate separately.

No, you can't use a standard 2 roller rolling road. It'll throw the car off the rollers, or break something.

Sounds like the VCU has seized to be, so that needs testing, before the IRD explodes.

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Ideal thanks for the info. Makes sense why he was using the floor test thing for the brakes. I think what I had been reading wasn’t for this car lol. Think it may apply to other landrovers. I did mark the far ends of the prop before the first removal and have always put them back to the original place. I’m positive the vcu is good as it was replaced a couple of years ago with a genuine new one and I tested it not long ago on wet grass. I guess it could be coincidence where the two sides lined up and if they were slightly off angle I probably couldn’t tell by eye.

Anyways that clears up all of the confusion and thankfully I did it all right the first time lol.

Anyways thanks so much for sharing the knowledge.

Cheers, rossco

Ross Tait said:

Makes sense why he was using the floor test thing for the brakes.

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4X4 vehicles should have brakes tested on a road test, with a Tapley brake tester on the passenger seat or foot well.
This will show maximum brake effort and brake balance and other information the tester needs.

Ross Tait said:

I’m positive the vcu is good as it was replaced a couple of years ago with a genuine new one and I tested it not long ago on wet grass.

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Do the One Wheel Up Test, which is much more accurate for testing the VCU function.

Nodge68 said:

4X4 vehicles should have brakes tested on a road test, with a Tapley brake tester on the passenger seat or foot well.
This will show maximum brake effort and brake balance and other information the tester needs.



Do the One Wheel Up Test, which is much more accurate for testing the VCU function.

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Yeah that’s what they normally do with any 4x4 that comes in normally. I’ll soon enough be doing the MOT tester course myself in a few months, I can never remember the name of that thing lol.

Yeah I think I will when I get time for it, I’m sure I’ve read up on that test on here somewhere at some point.

I was told by the previous keeper that a new vcu was installed a year or two ago. When I looked under it upon inspecting it for purchase I could see the vcu looked literally new, every other part of the propshaft had some rust on it.

Turned out to be a great motor for £500, Ive fixed up about 70% of its issues so far and already done 13,000 miles in 8/9 months.

Thanks again, rossco

Ross Tait said:

Yeah I think I will when I get time for it, I’m sure I’ve read up on that test on here somewhere at some point.

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It's on YouTube, uploaded Hippo.

Ross Tait said:

Ideal thanks for the info. Makes sense why he was using the floor test thing for the brakes. I think what I had been reading wasn’t for this car lol. Think it may apply to other landrovers. I did mark the far ends of the prop before the first removal and have always put them back to the original place. I’m positive the vcu is good as it was replaced a couple of years ago with a genuine new one and I tested it not long ago on wet grass. I guess it could be coincidence where the two sides lined up and if they were slightly off angle I probably couldn’t tell by eye.

Anyways that clears up all of the confusion and thankfully I did it all right the first time lol.

Anyways thanks so much for sharing the knowledge.

Cheers, rossco

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Testing the 4 wheel drive on wet grass doesn't tell you anything about the condition of the VCU. It could be locked solid and you wouldn't know.
If you are able to mark the props and they don't move after driving several miles then you have a serious issue with the VCU and it should be tested as a matter of urgency and removed if solid.
Personally I wouldn't drive the car again until it is tested.
Many people say they replaced the VCU and what they mean is they bought the car with the propshaft removed and replaced it with a used one, the paint on VCU's is some kind of wonder paint that always looks like new.
When asked if the propshaft is good most folk say yes because they don't know any better. They think if the car works in 4WD it must be OK. This is why so many Freelanders end up with destroyed IRD and/or rear diff.